94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
07-08-2015, 09:21 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 135
94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
hey guys thanks got alot help off here want to thank all yall who have helped me out with alot my ?? very cool im looking to get most hp out my car without going into the heads so on its bone bone stock 1994 z28 camaro 145k miles also dont wanna use nos so we can throw that out lol ill take all the info can get 
07-08-2015, 10:53 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Stillwater Ok USA
Posts: 574
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
BASIC BOLT-ONS
Intake Components
Colt Air Intake (CAI) (brands: Moroso, K&N, SLP, IRS, Hypertech(Air Foil), etc.) - $150 to $300 - Replaces the stock Air Box and Filter with larger filter(K&N Usually) and better flowing intake tract that connects to the MAF Sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor Ends (MAF Ends) - $50 to ? - Replaces stock MAF ends and Maf screen with a ported set of MAF Ends that still utilize the original MAF Sensor. Please note that ported MAFs can respond unpredictably and have caused driveability problems in some cars. The stock MAF flows enough for 400+ hp so most bolt-on cars won't need MAF upgrades.
1LE Elbow - Approx $70 - Replaces the stock unit with a smoother unit that does away with the silencer(the donkey dong on the bottom of the stock elbow).
Air Foil/Air Charger - $30 to $60 - Bolts to the front of the Stock Throttle Body to smooth out the airflow going into the intake.
Throttle Body (aka a "TB") - Starting around $320 for a 52MM or 58MM BBK which is the most often purchased TB, or you can port them yourself free of charge if you have a dremel at your disposal.
Exhaust Components
Catback Exhaust (Brands: Hooker, Mac, BBK, SLP, Borla, Flowmaster, FLP, Edlebrock, Magnaflow) - $250 to Custom - A performance exhaust system that starts after the catalytic converter and generally includes all pipes, the mufller, and tips.
Headers - $300 to Custom - Shorties include Hooker, Mac, Edlebrock, BBK, etc. and Longtubes include Hooker, FLP, etc. and custom setups from Kooks and other manufacturers.
Y-Pipes - $250 to Custom - Y-Pipes are generally included in Shorty Header systems but not always and are rarely included in Longtube Header systems. Y-Pipes are shaped like a "Y" and connect both header collectors to the I-Pipe which connects to the Muffler System.
Cutout/Electric Cut-Out - $30/$200 - Exhaust dump best placed infront of the cats or as far down the I-Pipe as possible if you wish to stay emmisions legal.
Misc.
160 Degree Thermostat - $20 - A thermostat which opens at a lower temperature allowing the car to run cooler, usually used in conjunction with a Hypertech Power Programmer or a Fan Switch that allows you to turn the fans on earler as well.
Underdrive Pullies (Crank and Alternator) - $60 to $100 - These pullies are resized and replace the stock pullies allowing the motor to free up some lost HP that was formerly used to turn the accessories. The pullies free up HP by turning the accessories slower requiring less effort from the motor.
Maunal Fan Switch - Free to $75- Used to manualy turn the radiator fans on and off when needed. TO do so for free, all you need is an automotive relay, switch, and some wire....10bucks at radioshack
Hypertech Power Programmer - ~$330+ - Used to lower fan activation temperatures, rev limiters, fuel curve, gear ratio's, change in tire size, etc. Tunercat/LT1edit - An alternative to Hypertech that will allow you to manualy adjust a larger variety of settings within the PCM.
Weight Loss - FREE!!! - Any thing that you can do without on the car and are willing to yank out. Weight is the ultimate name of the game and you will see the most gains from weight loss..weight is 90% of racing. The general rule of thumb is 100 lbs off the car equals one tenth reduction in 1/4 mile ET.
Courtesy of lt1howto.com
Intake Components
Colt Air Intake (CAI) (brands: Moroso, K&N, SLP, IRS, Hypertech(Air Foil), etc.) - $150 to $300 - Replaces the stock Air Box and Filter with larger filter(K&N Usually) and better flowing intake tract that connects to the MAF Sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor Ends (MAF Ends) - $50 to ? - Replaces stock MAF ends and Maf screen with a ported set of MAF Ends that still utilize the original MAF Sensor. Please note that ported MAFs can respond unpredictably and have caused driveability problems in some cars. The stock MAF flows enough for 400+ hp so most bolt-on cars won't need MAF upgrades.
1LE Elbow - Approx $70 - Replaces the stock unit with a smoother unit that does away with the silencer(the donkey dong on the bottom of the stock elbow).
Air Foil/Air Charger - $30 to $60 - Bolts to the front of the Stock Throttle Body to smooth out the airflow going into the intake.
Throttle Body (aka a "TB") - Starting around $320 for a 52MM or 58MM BBK which is the most often purchased TB, or you can port them yourself free of charge if you have a dremel at your disposal.
Exhaust Components
Catback Exhaust (Brands: Hooker, Mac, BBK, SLP, Borla, Flowmaster, FLP, Edlebrock, Magnaflow) - $250 to Custom - A performance exhaust system that starts after the catalytic converter and generally includes all pipes, the mufller, and tips.
Headers - $300 to Custom - Shorties include Hooker, Mac, Edlebrock, BBK, etc. and Longtubes include Hooker, FLP, etc. and custom setups from Kooks and other manufacturers.
Y-Pipes - $250 to Custom - Y-Pipes are generally included in Shorty Header systems but not always and are rarely included in Longtube Header systems. Y-Pipes are shaped like a "Y" and connect both header collectors to the I-Pipe which connects to the Muffler System.
Cutout/Electric Cut-Out - $30/$200 - Exhaust dump best placed infront of the cats or as far down the I-Pipe as possible if you wish to stay emmisions legal.
Misc.
160 Degree Thermostat - $20 - A thermostat which opens at a lower temperature allowing the car to run cooler, usually used in conjunction with a Hypertech Power Programmer or a Fan Switch that allows you to turn the fans on earler as well.
Underdrive Pullies (Crank and Alternator) - $60 to $100 - These pullies are resized and replace the stock pullies allowing the motor to free up some lost HP that was formerly used to turn the accessories. The pullies free up HP by turning the accessories slower requiring less effort from the motor.
Maunal Fan Switch - Free to $75- Used to manualy turn the radiator fans on and off when needed. TO do so for free, all you need is an automotive relay, switch, and some wire....10bucks at radioshack
Hypertech Power Programmer - ~$330+ - Used to lower fan activation temperatures, rev limiters, fuel curve, gear ratio's, change in tire size, etc. Tunercat/LT1edit - An alternative to Hypertech that will allow you to manualy adjust a larger variety of settings within the PCM.
Weight Loss - FREE!!! - Any thing that you can do without on the car and are willing to yank out. Weight is the ultimate name of the game and you will see the most gains from weight loss..weight is 90% of racing. The general rule of thumb is 100 lbs off the car equals one tenth reduction in 1/4 mile ET.
Courtesy of lt1howto.com
07-09-2015, 06:41 AM
#5
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
Some old, but still valid data on LT1 HP increases for some basic modifications, documented with dyno tests:
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
WS6.COM LT1 Trans Am
07-09-2015, 09:45 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 135
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
thxs for all the info guys my cars bone stock so out of that list what best best hp gain for the money to start ??? also ive read so much and cold air intakes how all they really do is hurt your pockets they dont do much of nothing ??
Intake Components
Colt Air Intake (CAI) (brands: Moroso, K&N, SLP, IRS, Hypertech(Air Foil), etc.) - $150 to $300 - Replaces the stock Air Box and Filter with larger filter(K&N Usually) and better flowing intake tract that connects to the MAF Sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor Ends (MAF Ends) - $50 to ? - Replaces stock MAF ends and Maf screen with a ported set of MAF Ends that still utilize the original MAF Sensor. Please note that ported MAFs can respond unpredictably and have caused driveability problems in some cars. The stock MAF flows enough for 400+ hp so most bolt-on cars won't need MAF upgrades.
1LE Elbow - Approx $70 - Replaces the stock unit with a smoother unit that does away with the silencer(the donkey dong on the bottom of the stock elbow).
Air Foil/Air Charger - $30 to $60 - Bolts to the front of the Stock Throttle Body to smooth out the airflow going into the intake.
Throttle Body (aka a "TB") - Starting around $320 for a 52MM or 58MM BBK which is the most often purchased TB, or you can port them yourself free of charge if you have a dremel at your disposal.
Exhaust Components
Catback Exhaust (Brands: Hooker, Mac, BBK, SLP, Borla, Flowmaster, FLP, Edlebrock, Magnaflow) - $250 to Custom - A performance exhaust system that starts after the catalytic converter and generally includes all pipes, the mufller, and tips.
Headers - $300 to Custom - Shorties include Hooker, Mac, Edlebrock, BBK, etc. and Longtubes include Hooker, FLP, etc. and custom setups from Kooks and other manufacturers.
Y-Pipes - $250 to Custom - Y-Pipes are generally included in Shorty Header systems but not always and are rarely included in Longtube Header systems. Y-Pipes are shaped like a "Y" and connect both header collectors to the I-Pipe which connects to the Muffler System.
Cutout/Electric Cut-Out - $30/$200 - Exhaust dump best placed infront of the cats or as far down the I-Pipe as possible if you wish to stay emmisions legal.
Misc.
160 Degree Thermostat - $20 - A thermostat which opens at a lower temperature allowing the car to run cooler, usually used in conjunction with a Hypertech Power Programmer or a Fan Switch that allows you to turn the fans on earler as well.
Underdrive Pullies (Crank and Alternator) - $60 to $100 - These pullies are resized and replace the stock pullies allowing the motor to free up some lost HP that was formerly used to turn the accessories. The pullies free up HP by turning the accessories slower requiring less effort from the motor.
Maunal Fan Switch - Free to $75- Used to manualy turn the radiator fans on and off when needed. TO do so for free, all you need is an automotive relay, switch, and some wire....10bucks at radioshack
Hypertech Power Programmer - ~$330+ - Used to lower fan activation temperatures, rev limiters, fuel curve, gear ratio's, change in tire size, etc. Tunercat/LT1edit - An alternative to Hypertech that will allow you to manualy adjust a larger variety of settings within the PCM.
Weight Loss - FREE!!! - Any thing that you can do without on the car and are willing to yank out. Weight is the ultimate name of the game and you will see the most gains from weight loss..weight is 90% of racing. The general rule of thumb is 100 lbs off the car equals one tenth reduction in 1/4 mile ET.
Courtesy of lt1howto.com
Intake Components
Colt Air Intake (CAI) (brands: Moroso, K&N, SLP, IRS, Hypertech(Air Foil), etc.) - $150 to $300 - Replaces the stock Air Box and Filter with larger filter(K&N Usually) and better flowing intake tract that connects to the MAF Sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor Ends (MAF Ends) - $50 to ? - Replaces stock MAF ends and Maf screen with a ported set of MAF Ends that still utilize the original MAF Sensor. Please note that ported MAFs can respond unpredictably and have caused driveability problems in some cars. The stock MAF flows enough for 400+ hp so most bolt-on cars won't need MAF upgrades.
1LE Elbow - Approx $70 - Replaces the stock unit with a smoother unit that does away with the silencer(the donkey dong on the bottom of the stock elbow).
Air Foil/Air Charger - $30 to $60 - Bolts to the front of the Stock Throttle Body to smooth out the airflow going into the intake.
Throttle Body (aka a "TB") - Starting around $320 for a 52MM or 58MM BBK which is the most often purchased TB, or you can port them yourself free of charge if you have a dremel at your disposal.
Exhaust Components
Catback Exhaust (Brands: Hooker, Mac, BBK, SLP, Borla, Flowmaster, FLP, Edlebrock, Magnaflow) - $250 to Custom - A performance exhaust system that starts after the catalytic converter and generally includes all pipes, the mufller, and tips.
Headers - $300 to Custom - Shorties include Hooker, Mac, Edlebrock, BBK, etc. and Longtubes include Hooker, FLP, etc. and custom setups from Kooks and other manufacturers.
Y-Pipes - $250 to Custom - Y-Pipes are generally included in Shorty Header systems but not always and are rarely included in Longtube Header systems. Y-Pipes are shaped like a "Y" and connect both header collectors to the I-Pipe which connects to the Muffler System.
Cutout/Electric Cut-Out - $30/$200 - Exhaust dump best placed infront of the cats or as far down the I-Pipe as possible if you wish to stay emmisions legal.
Misc.
160 Degree Thermostat - $20 - A thermostat which opens at a lower temperature allowing the car to run cooler, usually used in conjunction with a Hypertech Power Programmer or a Fan Switch that allows you to turn the fans on earler as well.
Underdrive Pullies (Crank and Alternator) - $60 to $100 - These pullies are resized and replace the stock pullies allowing the motor to free up some lost HP that was formerly used to turn the accessories. The pullies free up HP by turning the accessories slower requiring less effort from the motor.
Maunal Fan Switch - Free to $75- Used to manualy turn the radiator fans on and off when needed. TO do so for free, all you need is an automotive relay, switch, and some wire....10bucks at radioshack
Hypertech Power Programmer - ~$330+ - Used to lower fan activation temperatures, rev limiters, fuel curve, gear ratio's, change in tire size, etc. Tunercat/LT1edit - An alternative to Hypertech that will allow you to manualy adjust a larger variety of settings within the PCM.
Weight Loss - FREE!!! - Any thing that you can do without on the car and are willing to yank out. Weight is the ultimate name of the game and you will see the most gains from weight loss..weight is 90% of racing. The general rule of thumb is 100 lbs off the car equals one tenth reduction in 1/4 mile ET.
Courtesy of lt1howto.com
07-10-2015, 11:52 AM
#9
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
The first thing to buy for your LT1 is a CAI. Where did you read that they don't do "much of nothing" (sic)? That would only be true if is a cheaply designed unit from ebay, that doesn't move the air filter out of the engine compartment.
You really need to ask these questions with an open mind, and stop coming here with predetermined notions of what the correct answers are.
My first mod's were a CAI (Calaway Honker, same as a Moroso) and a Borla 3" catback. Documented decrease of 3/10ths in the 1/4-mile. That would indicate a gain of 25-30HP at the flywheel.
Things that are not worth the $$$ in an attempt to reach 300HP at the rear wheels:
-U/D pulleys
-throttle body air foil
-58mm throttle body
-1LE intake elbow
-MAF sensor enlargement or modifications
-Hypertech tuner (unless also used with a 160* t'stat)
Things that do make sense:
-CAI
-Headers
-3" mandrel bent catback
-52mm throttle body (marginal)
-1.6X full roller rockers
-throttle body coolant bypass
-160* t'stat
-a small cam upgrade
-a good mail order tune (cheaper than a Hypertech, and better)
Is your car an 6-speed manual, or a 4-speed automatic? That will affect how much HP you make at the rear wheels, and what you need to do with the trans (higher stall converter for an A4) and the rear axle ratio (3.73 for the A4, 4.10 for the M6).
Add a signature:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/
As an example, my 381ci LT1 stroker is close to 500HP at the flywheel. The shop that built the engine and dyno tuned it, first on an engine dyno, then on a chassis dyno, and then on the track, was able to show me on the engine dyno that it did not need my Holley 58mm throttle body to make that kind of HP. By measuring actual air flow into the engine, and looking at the corresponding throttle blade position, it was obvious that a 52mm throttle body would have been adequate for 500HP.
You really need to ask these questions with an open mind, and stop coming here with predetermined notions of what the correct answers are.
My first mod's were a CAI (Calaway Honker, same as a Moroso) and a Borla 3" catback. Documented decrease of 3/10ths in the 1/4-mile. That would indicate a gain of 25-30HP at the flywheel.
Things that are not worth the $$$ in an attempt to reach 300HP at the rear wheels:
-U/D pulleys
-throttle body air foil
-58mm throttle body
-1LE intake elbow
-MAF sensor enlargement or modifications
-Hypertech tuner (unless also used with a 160* t'stat)
Things that do make sense:
-CAI
-Headers
-3" mandrel bent catback
-52mm throttle body (marginal)
-1.6X full roller rockers
-throttle body coolant bypass
-160* t'stat
-a small cam upgrade
-a good mail order tune (cheaper than a Hypertech, and better)
Is your car an 6-speed manual, or a 4-speed automatic? That will affect how much HP you make at the rear wheels, and what you need to do with the trans (higher stall converter for an A4) and the rear axle ratio (3.73 for the A4, 4.10 for the M6).
Add a signature:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...nature-879835/
As an example, my 381ci LT1 stroker is close to 500HP at the flywheel. The shop that built the engine and dyno tuned it, first on an engine dyno, then on a chassis dyno, and then on the track, was able to show me on the engine dyno that it did not need my Holley 58mm throttle body to make that kind of HP. By measuring actual air flow into the engine, and looking at the corresponding throttle blade position, it was obvious that a 52mm throttle body would have been adequate for 500HP.
Last edited by Injuneer; 07-10-2015 at 11:54 AM.
07-10-2015, 02:49 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 135
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
just read some post and seen these videos about cai and thxs for the info reading over it now just took car out had line going off the water pump start to leak blah but its fixed now
and this one
and this one
07-10-2015, 06:33 PM
#13
Administrator
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
Maybe someone else can help you. Every time I tell you something you challenge what I said. How many times did I tell you your fans don't come on when you shut the engine down, and you still wouldn't believe me.
You are not dealing with imports any more. Open your mind up.
You are not dealing with imports any more. Open your mind up.
07-10-2015, 06:59 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 135
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
hey look i wasn't saying i didn't believe you on nothing idk if your having a bad day or something but don't take it out on me how many times have i thanked you for your info ??? more than once and fans coming on when i shut engine down ?? i don't rem that talk im just here trying get info and ask ? of my own tons more camaro sits out there but i liked this one but not cool way you trying come at me trying say im not taking your info this and that and ive had 1 import had alot cars had few trans am and mustangs as well as camaros just been years since ive done alot work cause im dad now and just trying get info
07-10-2015, 07:58 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kissimmee, Fl, USA
Posts: 1,942
Re: 94 z28 camaro lt1 300 hp ?? info
hey look i wasn't saying i didn't believe you on nothing idk if your having a bad day or something but don't take it out on me how many times have i thanked you for your info ??? more than once and fans coming on when i shut engine down ?? i don't rem that talk im just here trying get info and ask ? of my own tons more camaro sits out there but i liked this one but not cool way you trying come at me trying say im not taking your info this and that and ive had 1 import had alot cars had few trans am and mustangs as well as camaros just been years since ive done alot work cause im dad now and just trying get info
Save yourself some grief and use the search function before asking any question and if you don't find anything, try again. Then ask your question. While no one is infallible, there are a few whose comments are close to gospel...among them are Injuneer and Shoebox. I doubt there is anything that those two guys couldn't answer...
One thing that drives people crazy is when a question is asked and answered and then the questioner argues the point. If you know the answer, don't ask. If you don't know the answer, accept the information and see if it works for you...
People will help you if you give them the chance. Just be civil in you question-asking and follow up comments and you'll be fine..
Now as Injuneer stated, the first place to start is with a cold air induction system. Buy a decent one and you'll see decent gains. Then open up the exhaust with a catback exhaust system....you can spend a lot or a little..I started with a Hooker cat back and it did very well, especially for the money.
For the tune, I used PCMforLESS.com and they did a great job. You can either download the program online and then into your PCM or. Just send them your PCM. I think they're still in business but I'm not certain..
Anyway, good luck...