Well, I have a few questions

1 - When I add Long Tube headers to my car, then a 100 shot... you think 11's are possible?

2 - What would have to be upgraded in my car to handle the long tube headers and 100 shot?

3 - Whats the best kit available for 96 LT1 6 Speed? I want a 100 shot to be safe, maybe a 125. I want to hit 11's... I also want to hide my **** completely so no one sees it.

Sorry to sound ignorant... any help here?

 

Your going to need some sticky tires, which equates to a 12bolt, Driveshaft and probebly a clutch.

Some suspension will be in order also, LCAs, SFCs, and a Torque arm.

You could get away without them if you like to race from a 45 roll or so

 

Well, thats what I would do... is start the spray from the beginning of 3rd and finish the race that way... start hard, finish hard

 

What is your current ET and have you upgraded anything else you can probably expect to drop .8 on a 100 shot.

 

your stock fuel system should handle a 100 shot anything above that and you want to upgrade your fuel pump. I went with the PnP racetronix. i have seen a stock bottom end LT1 handle a 200 shot but i would be leary of a stock rear end handling that with a M6 a A4 maybe. with a M6 i would really think about a window switch. and always go with a FPSS, its just cheap insurance.

what is the lobe sep on your cam? and as stated before your suspention is whats going to limit you. thats my problem now i have the power, but not the means of getting it to the ground.

as far as the kit there are some nice ones out there
TNT - but the have a throttle plate that would be hard to hide
NX - great stuff and easy to hide, lifetime warrenty on the noids give nitro dave a call at nitrous outlet you won't find it any cheaper.
Dynotune - they to have some nice stuff and easy to hide

the easiest place to hide your bottle is the spare tire well and run your nozzle up the bottom of the intake bellow.

 

So then its settled... just need to pick out the right kit.

"NX - great stuff and easy to hide, lifetime warrenty on the noids give nitro dave a call at nitrous outlet you won't find it any cheaper"

So I guess i'm going NX because of the stealth? Would it be as efficient if I sprayed at the end of 2nd gear? Or beginning of third?

114LSA on the XE 227/233 Cam and has a 560/569 lift with the 1.6rr

 

Your cam will go good with the nitrous with it being on a 114 lsa.

 

To be most efficient you need to spray as soon as traction allows. I spray a 125 shot all the time in first gear on street tires and they only spin if the road sucks. I'd say get a window switch and start spraying at ~3,500 RPM in first, or at least the beginning of second. Once your clutch is fully engaged and you're rolling along, spray the crank out of it! Nitrous won't hurt your rear end, as it's the shock loads that kill it.

 

[QUOTE=izzyz28]I spray a 125 shot all the time in first gear on street tires and they only spin if the road sucks. QUOTE]

Wow...even on a prepped surface i can get no traction in 1st gear. You have alot of suspension work done or something?

 

Whats a window switch?

 

[QUOTE=Valkyn71]I have SFC's, boxed LCA's and panhard bar, and energy suspension transmission and torque-arm mounts. Nothing too fancy, but it works pretty well. On good asphalt or concrete I don't spin. If I do spin it's usually not enough to completely blow the tires off. I can always short shift and let the torque the nitrous provides pull me through the bottom of second gear. If the track surface is slippery I can pull ~2.1 60' times. This is N/A of course, since I haven't been to the track with the nitrous yet. If the track is prepped my clutch is limiting me to high 1.90's, but the tires stick like glue dumping the clutch at 4K.

Chris, a window switch turns your nitrous on and off at set RPM's. I have mine set to come on at 3,600 RPM, and turn it off at 6,200 RPM before the rev limiter kicks in at 6,500 RPM. It's a nice feature to have. I'm using the Mallory 685 ignition box which has a built-in window switchm timing retard, and dual rev limiters.

 

its an electronic box that turns on a system at a set RPM and off at a set RPM in this case N2O. MSD makes the best IMO. they have 2 styles the pill type were you put in rpm pills usually 3000ish and 6000ish $75 for switch and $25 a set of pills 2 are needed or the new digital one that allows you to dial in the desired RPM $89.

it turns the N2O on at 3000 so you don't spray at a low rpm and shuts it off at 6000 so don't spray at to high an rpm over revving your engine and it will shut it back off if RPM's fall below 3000. helps eliminate spraying if you miss a shift.

 

So whats a full Nitrous kit look like? I mean parts wise to make things run completely safe without worry for anything breaking.

FPSS... whats that mean?

 

A FPSS is a Fuel Pressure Shutoff Switch. It turns off the nitrous system if your fuel pressure drops below an acceptable level. I think they're adjustable, maybe someone who uses one could chime in. A full nitrous kit will have a bottle, two solenoids, lines, a plate or nozzle, and a few wires. Of course you may want a nitrous pressure gauge and a bottle heater as well. Here is a picture of an NOS kit for the LT-1:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...f05151NOS.html

It is definately possible to hide everything. You can use rubber tubing to hide the lines, and the solenoids can be mounted below the engine, though you may need longer lines. You will probably want to get a kit that uses a nozzle, because it's impossible to hide a plate. Good luck!

 

give dave a call or atleast check out his web site. these guys know their stuff.
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com