I am putting a a carb kit I have in a EFI car purchased a EFI nozzle and figured I would hardline from solenoids to nozzle well, I liked the noids on the shock tower, so that led me to think the engine movement and hard lines equal NO! I was going to purchase, the SS -3 AN lines but DAMN 50 dollars.

So any ideas on saving me some money and still haveinga nice set up.

I seen the new NOS brand injecgtor kit uses some plastic but not sure what fitting, might have to ACE Hardware and look around.

Let me know if you have any ideas.

Thanks,
Jeff Owens

 

Call around some of your local auto parts stores. Some of them should be able to make up braided lines for fairly cheap. Try shops that deal in bigger truck stuff, they should be able to help.

 

Try eBay. There are people there offering hoses in custom configurations for about 1/2 of what you would pay for a ready-made line from NOS or others.

 

....

 

We have some flexable poly line that would work for you. I don't have a picture of it by itself, but can see it in the bellow picture.

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=294&page=1

Here's a direct link to it:

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=277&page=1

 

Matt no disrespect intended here but I would never use poly line in a engine compartment. Also you could not get enough flow out of the small line.Use poly line in an engine and the nitrous one will go bye bye.Then funnel jets never work people over tighten them all the time. They were desighned for m/c systems where the air is always moving and not 200+ degress.I would use the braided line.It cost more for a reason.But it will last you forever.NX does offer a black insulate high preasure off the chart pressure line I think it 27000 psi burst stuff for an option for a directport set up but I still would not put it down into the engine bay going to the nozzle.It is also not desighned to flow enough for the single nozzle.
Dave

 

100% disagree with ya Dave. We're been using it (along with a few other nitrous manufactures) for a few years with NO problems what so ever, even from heat in the engine bay. The lines we use and sell flow enough N20 for a 400 shot. This stuff is extremely easy to work with and durable. I guess it's back to you using scare tactics again like you were doing over on LS1tech.com?

 

Ok,
Matt,If you consider giving the consumer actual fact and product knowledge a scare tactic well then thats ok. I will not continue to argue with you on these boards.I can tell from your post that your knowledge is vague.If you would like any help with your product knowledge please let me know.
Have a good day.
Dave

 

That's not what you are doing though Dave. You're making stuff up, like I said before there has been NO issues with this Poly line, EVER! So how am I not giving the consumer actual facts and product knowledge? Harris Speed Works has been selling/installing/and engineering nitrous systems and components for the past 5 years. The only thing that is new to us is the internet, which we have been on for 5 months. I guess that degree in mechanical/chemical engineering was for nothing....

 

Matt,
Are you sure your talking about a POLY line.The nitrous poly line will break do to engine temp.The poly line gets weaker the hotter it gets.Also keep in mind that this is not a directport.This is a single nozzle kit.So the line has to be large enough to flow up to 250 hp. Depending on the kit.What size is the inner diameter of your line.Ill get the math for you.
Dave

 

Yes Dave, POLY LINE. It has never failed due to engine compartment temperature! If you lay it across headers it will fail, just as steel braided will fail.

Owens Racing™ said "a EFI nozzle". I take that as a single nozzle, not a DP. I doubt he is spraying a 250 hp shot, but if Owens Racing™ is, I apologize, there would be a better solution for you. Actually Owens Racing™, I do apologize for the way your thread has gone down hill.

 

Matt, Again I mean no disrespect by this.What size line are you using? Everything I have ever seen from any nitrous company is rated any where between 1200-4300 psi Burst Pressure @70' F. Which material are you using. Poly line is an automotive term not the real name of the material. Is it? Polyethylene, Nylon, Polyproplene,Polyurethane, clear vinyl, Fluoropolymer(TFE,PFA,FEP)
Dave

 

Actually you guys are pouring out some good info both ways keep it respectful and let the Z28 community learn form this debate.

Thanks,
Owens

Oh yea
Prices guys,
need prices going to be ordering something this Friday.

PM or email owensracing@comcast.net

 

Its clear 1/16” ID vinyl, I picked it up at the local pet store….haha just kiddin with ya dave …gotta keep some humor between us because honestly I’d rather work together to help solve fellow enthusiasts problems than fight for sales.

I agree, Poly is an over-used term in the automotive industry…when someone says they’re ditching their rubber mounts for some poly mounts, just about the entire automotive industry knows what they’re talking about. Is it kept in a simple term from the manufacturer? Probably. Is there a reason for this? Most definitely. If the entire world knew what materials or suppliers were being used for your product, don’t you feel it’s safe to assume that other companies will start in on your product line? It’s not a secret dave that the “nitrous companies” don’t actually manufacture most of their products. And just because nitrous companies only sell certain ID tubing doesn’t mean that other sizes don’t exist.


There are a variety of plastic extruded tubings available for safe use in this type of pressure/temperature scenario. I’ve seen quite a few suppliers of polyethylene fail at low burst pressures but withstand drastic temperatures without wall distortion or radial AND axial shrinkage. Advantage in this situation is tight bend radiuses. Nylon is another option. I’ve seen 6/6 11 and 12 all withstand the pressures and temperatures in question. Disadvantage on most nylons is a wider bend radius but they tend to tolerate hoop stress greater than your conventional plastics. In my findings it hasn’t been the burst pressure or high temperatures of the engine bay that have been the culprit of lines going bad. It has been the drastic temperature changes seen once the solenoid opens and nitrous flows through the already warm line. Some of the plastics tend to fail and become brittle, which alters the burst pressure of the line and results in what most people including myself cry about….lost nitrous . As of now I’m testing multiple flouroplastics and their resistance to heat and shrinkage, drastic temperature changes, bendability, as well as means of connectivity. The replacement of hydrogen with fluorine in the carbon based plastic has shown quite an improvement in burst strength. Some flouroplastics also contain a miracle coating provided by DuPont that most refer to as Teflon to aid in chemical protection. Am I going to share with you Nitro Dave what type of flouroplastic, nylon or any other extruded plastic line that I am using? No. Am I going to personally guarantee that it works, DAMN STRAIGHT! Can I formulate what size line is required for what pressure/velocity/length/situation required? Most definitely. I pride myself on the work we do here and we personally spend countless hours researching what we sell and what we use. I don’t appreciate you “bashing” my colleagues by saying his knowledge is vague while we have countless hours of R&D on this very subject. You’re a smart guy Dave and I’ve seen numerous posts where you do offer sound advice so I ask you nicely to instead of trying to “belittle” the competition for a sale, let’s work together to provide excellent support for LTX/LSX owners regardless of the nitrous kit being used. Thanks for your time.

Nick

 

Nick,
Thanks for the response.I was very professional about Disagreeing on the lines Matt suggested.Then I was accused of using scare tactics
Not the case at all...... I was just disaggreeing in the product he suggested.I will post my reasonings as soon as I get a chance to.I have good reason for disaggreeing and have the knowledge and product info to back it. This has nothing to do with sales.I will be more than happy to suggest a better product and then send them over to you guys to purchase it if you are really that worried about it.Come on guys whats wrong with talking about product information...Thats how customers learn so that they can make educated decisions in what they purchase.I beleave product knowledge is the key.These forums are not just for sales they are here to share and to teach the nitrous users product information and technical knowledge.
AGAIN, I ment know direspect buy posting about these lines and will post the reasoning on why I posted what I did as soon as I get a chance.
Everyone knows I do not care for the quality or buisness practices of cold fusion.However I have no hard feelings against Harris speed Works.I really have never even heard of you guys.So please settle down and quite attaching me every chance you get.I know you may not be happy that I do not care for the product you sell.IM sorry I cant help that.......
We are loading up today and headed to Tulsa OK to work the clash race.We will be gone tommorow and all weekend.So it may be monday before I can post what Im wanting to post.
Take care
Dave