I am purchasing a NX wet kit and I am going with the FPSS, Purge, Blow-down, window switch. Do I need a bottle warmer? What are the advantages and when does it really help (conditions)? Also, if I stay with no more than 100 shot, do I need to mess with the timing retard? Thanks.

Michael

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1995 Formula, 355 Forged, ATI Super Damper, M6, B&M Shifter, Spec Stage 3 Carbon Clutch, 4.10, 1LE Drive Shaft, CAI, CC 306 Cam, Pro Mag 1.6 RR's, Hooker LT, 58mmTB, AFPR, 26 lb. inj., Stage 2 Heads, 1LE Elbow, MSD6AL, NGK TR55, LT4KM, !AIR, !EGR, !CAT, BMR SFC, BMR Boxed LCA, BMR Panhard

 

When running my 75 shot, I do not pull any timing. I only pull 2degree for 125shot. As for the heater, I have noticed the it does not even come on during the day becuase its always hot out. The only time it actually activates is at night. It keeps my bottle at about 1000. Which I think is pretty much maintained without a heater if its about 80degress outside. If you dont do steetracing at night or in ****ty wheather, Then I would recommend saving your money for something else.

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`96 TransAm: RamAir w/ K&N filter, 125hp Zex dry kit, 3.73 gears, McLeod StreetTwin clutch, Borla cat-back, 1le alum. driveshaft, B&M shifter, Walbro in-line fuel booster pump, Granatelli MAF, 52mm TB w/Airfoil and coolent bypass, LT4 KM + programmed computer, Accel 8.8 race wires, Zex Hyperformance plugs, MSD Univ. Adj. timing, Window switch, Sport-comp Nitrous, Boost, Fuel pressure gauges in center 3 vents and Air/Fuel gauge on A-pillar pod, Mobil 1 only, !CAGS, Yokohama tires, tinted windows.

Low 13's on motor.
Low 12's on bottle.
"Lots of throttle and a backup bottle"

 

One of the keys to consistancy with nitrous is maintaning a constant bottle pressure. Since pressure is determined solely by bottle temperature, the heater can be an important feature. Most jet sizes are based on 900psi bottle pressure, which means the bottle must be at least 83degF. On the average sunny day, that isn't a problem, but in the late Fall and Winter it is. 60degF drops the bottle pressure to 675psi.

Another thing that can hurt you as the level of nitrous in the bottle drops is the cooling of the contents that occurs as liquid nitrous is withdrawn from the bottle, and some of the remaining liquid vaporizes to fill the space created. As the liquid nitrous changes to vapor, it removes heat from the remaining liquid. On a large system, with only a 1/2 bottle remaining, even though you start with 900psi, or 950psi you are going to find the pressure dropping rapidly as you progress down the track, and that costs you power, since it reduces nitrous flow. And you need to reheat the bottle for the next pass to get it back to 900 or 950psi. On at least one occasion, I've run it up over 1000psi to squeeze out a little bit extra without swapping jets. You need 92degF to reach 1000psi.

So.... if you use nitrous occasionally, always in a warm climate, you will be fine without the heater. If you are running a larger shot, bracket racing, and/or running in colder weather, the bottle heater becomes mandatory.

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Fred
94 Formula A3: 381/TH400/N2O

Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines
Detailed Mod's List
11.513@115.59 on motor; 11.162@127.67, 1.643 60' on a 125-shot. Going with a 275-shot this year

[This message has been edited by Injuneer 94FormM6 (edited July 17, 2002).]

 

Fred,

Do you have any input on my timing retard question. I don't think I want to go over a 100 shot.

Michael

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1995 Formula, 355 Forged, ATI Super Damper, M6, B&M Shifter, Spec Stage 3 Carbon Clutch, 4.10, 1LE Drive Shaft, CAI, CC 306 Cam, Pro Mag 1.6 RR's, Hooker LT, 58mmTB, AFPR, 26 lb. inj., Stage 2 Heads, 1LE Elbow, MSD6AL, NGK TR55, LT4KM, !AIR, !EGR, !CAT, BMR SFC, BMR Boxed LCA, BMR Panhard

 

I do not think you will need any retard up to 100HP. But each engine is a little different, particularly as the age of our engines. A little bit of carbon in the combustion chambers, a plug that gets a little hot... who knows??

What I always recommend is that you "scan" so you can see if you are getting any knock retard. The stock PCM system can easily pull out 10deg of advance very rapidly, so a couple degrees shouldn't be a problem. But if your scan shows you are getting some knock retard, then you would use a retard box. Whenever the PCM pulls back timing, it pulls it fast, and it tends to overshoot to play it safe, then it very slowly puts the timing back in. You can lose a lot of performance this way, so if you regularly see knock retard, don't rely on the system, put in a box.

And, in order for the stock system to "hear" knock and start to retard timing, there has to be knock.... it won't hurt you to run on the ragged edge NA, but with nitrous, you want to stay away from "the edge".

Yepppppp.... we all said "I probably won't go over 100hp" .

Fred

[This message has been edited by Injuneer 94FormM6 (edited July 17, 2002).]

 

LOL! that's got to be the most common comment made by new nitrous users. I know I said it too.



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Mario,
White 94 Z28
Yeah I got a few mods
Video
Black 87 IROC-Z