I was wondering what you did with the pulleys and the belt? I know there is an AC delete pulley so it makes that part easy.

I am deleting both with my new engine build my idea is to just take both the AC compressor and the AIR pump off and get a shorter belt. Is this OK or does the belt have to be a certain length or route a certain way????

 

You need an ac delete pulley and a serp. belt that is 1 in. shorter that stock. The air pump is electrical and doesn't have a belt running it.

 

The belt needs to route a certain way so you'll need the AC delete pulley. A diagram of the belt routing is on the top of your radiator cover (at least it is on a 1995).

 

Thanks guys. As always a quick and easy answer.

 

I have also heard that when the motor first starts that I need to hold the rpms around 2k to break in the cam. Any of you guys hear of that before?

 

That's left over from the flat tappet days; no need to do that with roller style lifters.

 

I personally have no air pump AND no a/c. 1LE makes an A/C delete pulley. That should run you around $60. lt11997 answers your belt question. And as far as the routing it should be obvious when you're under the car.

Something no one has mentioned yet is the potential need for a re-tune after deleting the air pump. I do not know if it is neccessary BUT it is listed as one of the questions on pcm4less.com's website when getting a mail-order tune, so I assume that it may be something for you to consider in case your car isn't running well after this mod.

 

You don't need anything other than a stock length belt when using a GM a/c delete pully.

Ryan

 

Why do you say this?

Ryan

 

Some people find they need a new belt, some people find the old one works - I think it had to do with how large the pulley is on your compressor, but I don't recall for sure what the issue is as to why some do and some do not.

I personally wouldn't spend the money until I found out my old belt didn't work, but I found my stock belt to be too long.

 

I totally forgot I also have a set of underdrive pullies on the car! I think that may account for the difference when in conjunction with the !a/c and !air

 

Because the belt was really loose and I heard if it is you need a belt that is 1 in. shorter than stock, so I did and it fits much better. I've also heard some people have not had to get a shorter belt.

 

It's not to break in the cam, but to provide adequate oil splash. Yes, you should definitely do this.

 

That sounds like dealer list price. Do NOT pay list prices for your parts. There are several popular sources that will sell you the pulley for about 1/2 of list + shipping. I paid less than $30.... I suspect its a bit higher than that by now. It show at $32 and change on Shoebox's parts list (+ shipping)

No "tuning" necessary for the AIR delete. If you have an OBD-II, the diagnostic needs to be programmed out of the PCM to avoid setting the code/SES light - that's why tuners ask if you have an AIR delete. In the OBD-I cars, there is no diagnostic beyond checking for the fuse in the pump power supply, so its a non-issue. The pump doesn't run other than at startup, so it won't affect the "tune" and won't cause the car not to run well after the delete.

 

anyone know of a great write up, on removing the air pump?