which would be a better set up for me NA or S/C
which would be a better set up for me NA or S/C
im building a new motor for my camaro and i cant make up my mind on what i want to do.
i want to build a camaro with 450-500 rwhp, the money doesn't truly bother me i just have to stretch it out a little longer if it costs more. i want the car to be able to take the car to the track on weekends and during the week maybe take it for a cruise or to work once and while. it will really only be a toy i will never use it for a dd that what i bought the cobalt for but i want to be able to take it out for a cruise on the streets occasionally and the street manners can be a little ruff .
what im thinking about doing is either a na 383
or a supercharged 383.
would i be able to archive 450-500rwhp na on a 95 lt1?
i want to build a camaro with 450-500 rwhp, the money doesn't truly bother me i just have to stretch it out a little longer if it costs more. i want the car to be able to take the car to the track on weekends and during the week maybe take it for a cruise or to work once and while. it will really only be a toy i will never use it for a dd that what i bought the cobalt for but i want to be able to take it out for a cruise on the streets occasionally and the street manners can be a little ruff .
what im thinking about doing is either a na 383
or a supercharged 383.
would i be able to archive 450-500rwhp na on a 95 lt1?
You should concentrate on a track goal for performance numbers and use the dyno as a tuning tool...
A car pushing 450 rwhp should be trapping 123-125 MPH... not something commonly seen on these boards from an N/A LT1 unfortunately... although it can, and has been done quite a few times.
A car pushing 450 rwhp should be trapping 123-125 MPH... not something commonly seen on these boards from an N/A LT1 unfortunately... although it can, and has been done quite a few times.
i dont want to try and do do something that cant be done i just want to try and get the car to a certain point. i want to build a mid 10 to low 11 second car maybe im thinking i will need more hp then i do then.
i dont want to be gutting the car to get there though.
to me the best part about this is i can drive the car while im doing this becuase i bought a whole nother drive train to do it to.
i dont want to be gutting the car to get there though.
to me the best part about this is i can drive the car while im doing this becuase i bought a whole nother drive train to do it to.
I'd say you're better off runnin a blown 355 for the goal you stated. If you buy a forged crank at all yo have no reason not to do a 383 because theres no reason not to. In either case i'd build it with a 5.7 or a 5.85 rod to leave plenty of meat in the piston for the dish and to have lots of room to move the rings down.
n/a lt1's really seem to be hit or miss with rwhp numbers. so far I still dont have a clue why theres such a huge variation, if its tuning or assembly or what, but if you've built a few motors and they have run hard, the odds are that your engine will run hard.
but for my money if i'm not driving it every day a forged short block with a blower on it will run harder than n/a every day of the week. bottom line is it costs a TON of money to break 500rwhp n/a with an lt1, while that seems common with boosted lt's.
n/a lt1's really seem to be hit or miss with rwhp numbers. so far I still dont have a clue why theres such a huge variation, if its tuning or assembly or what, but if you've built a few motors and they have run hard, the odds are that your engine will run hard.
but for my money if i'm not driving it every day a forged short block with a blower on it will run harder than n/a every day of the week. bottom line is it costs a TON of money to break 500rwhp n/a with an lt1, while that seems common with boosted lt's.
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