aight, well after the heads and cam install the car ran like crap untill tunning (expected)...ran really rich b/c i put 36 lb injectors and ran it about 30 miles on stock tunning. So after the tune everything was good for about a week, then i noticed it starting to bog at lower rpm's, but at WOT or more throttle then regular driving it would stop....hooked it up to a laptop and monitored sensors, only thing we saw was low voltage......the next day IT WAS PERFECT, throughout entire rpm range it was great, ran like a dream, well then it started doing it only at higherr rpms (about 2 days later). Now it does it throughtout the entire rpm's.....still is drivable but is getting me mad, replaced plugs and 02 sensors a couple days ago (no luck)....i no eveyone is going to be saying plug wires (all good) and opti (was replaced with head/cam install about 400 miles ago)....also just put a blaster coil on it..........any ideas??????can the opti be in like one gear tooth off maybe???its a 94....thanks

 

when i say bogging....i mean like studdering.......like hesitates and pops kinda but still goes and gains rpms........(converter ((stock))slipping?????)

 

When you scanned it, did it show knock? If so, the PCM will take out timing causing you to bog.

 

The opti can be off it has two other holes but it wouldnt run , a bog would be the least of your problems.
What was low voltage??

Any smoke, to indicate if its runing rich or lean??

How big of a cam, what heads??

Why 36 injectors, might try the old ones see if it helps, maybe a last resort

 

He has a '94 (old style opti), so it is possible your opti could be slightly off. but if that was the case it would ALWAYS run like **** and would not explain it runnin good for a few days here and there. It sounds like the computer is retarding timing big time like mentioned above.

 

trans slipping can cause studdering too. before they are wiped out, they will studder while trying to grab (like a chattering clutch). def. check the cond. of the trans fluid. if its not cherry red w/no dust in it, then its prolly not that. you will also have to do like someone else said, watch the knock reading while its acting up. does your laptop have snapshot feature? if so take a snapshot of it while its doin it, and try to get a snapshot of it driving good, and compare the readings. look for big diff.s in maf., o2s, map, coolant temp., all sensors. what do the o2's read at WOT? should be around 850 i believe. if its a lower #, then its running lean. is your fuel pump stock? if so maybe its not supplying enough volume and the press. is droping off under load (acceleration) how did the plugs look when you changed them to try to fix it? were they loaded up w/fuel? were they very white? they should have a slight tan color to them if it was running correctly. try to change the fuel filter if you have not done that recently. good luck

chris

 

well, plugs had alot of carbon....more like it was running rich...when i was on the dyno running good, the air/fuel was a 12.8..........the tunning program that was used was C.A.T.S., the cam is CC305 and the heads are just port/polish stock heads. The studdering is coming at lower rpm's and at WOT at higher RPM's.........not sure if the program has a flash feature im gunna call the guy that tuned it for me and hopefully meet with him about this issues..........thanks for the help, and other thoughts??????

 

timing is set to pull a max of 4 degress.....possibly could be that tho (hopefully)...gunna hook it up tuesday and make some runs.......

 

If you still have the stock coil around try swapping the coils.....I had a blaster coil and it was a POS. Also make sure all your ground connections are clean and tight.