I was wondering how your motor ran after you got it fixed. I discover my oil looked like I accidentaly put milk in on my last oil change. Is there a pretty good chance that I already did serios damage to my bearings.

 

im sorry, come again?

 

ooooouch, never had that happen to my car but I had a dirt bike do that. Wasnt pretty, wasnt pretty at all.

My bearings were fine though, but i run http://www.proteclubricants.com/

 

nah man, you need to use at least 2%. Whole if you can get your hands on it. DO NOT use soy based though. LT1s arent lactose intolerant like Fords are. lol

 

It don't take long to fubar bearings. I think I'd rebuild totally just for insurance, unless your engine is fairly new.

 

same thing happened to me deleted the heat exchange/oil cooler and that fixed it but i had water in the oil and oil in the water.

 

What did you actually do to "fix" it? OR did you just change your oil and hope the problem disappeared? Not clear from what you posted.

 

I'm changing the oil today and goin to start it up after that and make sure it still holds good oil pressure and if it does i'm trailering it to the shop to see exactly where its coming from. My cooland doesn't look oily but around the top of my oil fill neck there was this white junk.

 

If it's ONLY around the neck it COULD just be condensation.

 

Mine ran real good after I got it all back together. But it only ran for an hour before it wiped out th bottom end. So you can take a chance like I did, but maybe you will get lucky.

 

I blew a headgasket on my old GTO and didn't know enough to request that they cleck out the bearings while they were fixing the heads. A couple of years later it started knocking going down A1A and when they tore it down, the rod, main and cam bearings were washed out and it had to be completely rebuilt. I know better now. The good news was it was a good rebuild and ran flawlessly for another 100K+.

 

All that milky oil is stuck in every crevass in your engine. It all needs to be cleaned out. Use some kerosene to clear it out real good. You can also get that motor flush from the parts store that works good. It is basicly kerosene. Use your head though. Don't fill it up with kerosene and take off down the road. Drain the oil and pour it in there. Let it idle for a few seconds. Drain and start over. A little time consuming but it will save your motor. When you fill it back up with oil, change the oil and filter at about 100 miles to make sure it is cleaned out. But before you do any of this, you need to figure out why water is getting into the oil otherwise it will just happen again.

 

well I took one of my valve covers off yesterday and it looked like normal. Just regular oil residue. I cleaned out the fill tube, changed my oil and drove it around and checked it agian and there wasn't any milk junk again. So I'm hoping it was just condensation

 

Change your pcv valve if those are bad it negatively affects oil(combustion gas contamination) and allows condensation to buildup like this a little more easily.

 

I blew a headgasket, had the milky oil deal going on. I probably drove on it for 100 miles or so. Parked it, instead of just changing head gaskets I put on ported heads and a HOTcam. It started up, held pressure fine and the bearings gave me no problems.