Does Lloyd have a website?

 

>Below is a basic run down on the packages. The best package will depend on
>HP goals, budget, rear gears, stall size, future plans, emissions, driving
>style, etc., etc, A phone call would be best to make sure that we can talk
>through these things and get a package that will work like you are wanting
>it to and also make sure that you have the complimenting parts to make each
>set up work.
>From what I have read so far, the LE2 package is what you are looking for
>but like I mention, a phone call is the best way to make sure we are on the
>same page and understand what corresponding parts are needed to make each
>package work correct.
>The 2 cars that are running with this package have all of the mods, good
>tuning, etc. and made 409 RWHP (A4) and 415 RWHP (M6). I have 6 others
>waiting top be assembled and dyno #'s will slowly come in on them. I have 1
>LE1 cam and heads package in a car and it made 399 RWHP with an A4, stall,
>3.42's, LT's etc. He ran 11.60's at 117 MPH but the car WORKS and the 60
>ft (1.66) has A LOT to do with the E.T. The MPH shows that the car is
>making power though. This kinda performance was AMAZING (E.T. MPH and Dyno
>#'s) and I and not sure if this is what everyone with this set up can
>expect or if Clint just has it tuned PERFECT. Either way, it is a good idea
>of what the combination CAN do with the right stuff. I have HP ratings on
>what I would expect from each set up and I have this rated at 370-390 RWHP
>but Clint made over that with a mail order tune. Thetune must be GOOD.
>
>I offer cam and head packager from $1100 to $1700 depending on driving
>style, emissions, RPM range, budget, etc.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>LE1 cam pulls from 1900 to 6100 RPM and should make 370-390 RWHP with
>matching heads, 30 lb injectors, 52 TB, 1 3/4 LTs, No cats, good tuning,
>etc. The heads are ported using stock valves, performance valve job, back
>cut valves, CM 612 springs, retainers and locks, milling, cleaning and
>assembly. These heads flow about 255/180 with a 195 cc intake port and
>stock LT1's flow about 215/150 with a 170 cc intake port.
>
>Heads and cam are $1100 (plus shipping) and will pass emissions with good
>tuning. This has the RPM range of the Hot Cam or CC 305 cam but makes more
>HP and TQ through out the entire RPM range. This will work
>with any gear and converter but the track times will be better with a stall
>and some gear.
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>LE2 cam pulls from 2200 to 6400 RPM and should make 400-420 RWHP with
>matching heads, 30-36 lb injectors, 52-58 mm TB, 1 3/4 LT's, no cats, GOOD
>tuning, etc. The heads are ported and machined for larger Ferrea 2.00/1.56
>valves, Comp 987 dbl springs, TITANIUM 10 degree retainers, locks,
>locators, milling, cleaning and assembly. These will flow about 270/190
>with a 205 cc intake port.
>
>Heads and cam are $1600 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This has
>the RPM range of the CC 306 cam but will make more HP and TQ at peak and
>across the board. The REAL difference will be the LE2 cam will make TQ in
>the 2500 RPM range and the cc 306 doesn't start until way past this. It
>will make more HP than the cc 306 at ALL RPM's.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>LE3 cam pulls from 2600 to 6800 RPM in a 350 (2300 to 6500 RPM in a 383)
>and should make 410 to 430 RWHP with matching heads, 36-42 lb injectors, 58
>TB or mono blade, GOOD tuning, etc, etc, etc. These are the same heads from
>above but with Comp 977 springs instead of the 987's. These are stronger
>and will also need Comp R lifters to handle the spring pressure.
>
>Heads and cam are $1700 (plus shipping) and will need GOOD tuning. This cam
>is similar to the GM 847 cam but makes about 10 more HP at peak and starts
>making HP sooner. Makes more HP and TQ across the board. Needs gear and
>converter to work well in a 350. Pretty much a racing cam for the 350 or a
>good street cam that will act like the LE2 in a 383.
>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Everyone has a different opinion about what is streetable and what a safe
>RPM limit is for their engine.
>
>I would suggest a DYNO TUNE to make sure everything is optimized but the 3
>people mentioned in this e-mail have mail order tunes and are doing pretty
>well. They might get more with a DYNO TUNE though. A DYNO TUNE is pretty
>expensive and tough to find some one that can do it as well. This is why
>most get a mail order tune from MADWOLF or PCM FOR LESS. Both can be found
>on CamaroZ28.com.
>
>Give me a call and I can help you pick a combo that you will be happy with.
>
>Lloyd
>Elliott------------------------972-617-5671------------------------Red Oak
>Tx 75154

 

I'm not saying I get in 20 races per day, but I certainly go full throttle more than 20 times a day (unless it's raining or if traffic is very bad).

 

WOT 20 times a day seems like some serious abuse to me.

 

Trust me...I really regret getting rid of it! The only reason I got rid of it was because it seemed like someone was always running into it! That car was hit about 6 times in 1 year...3 of those times I wasn't even in the friggin car! After I put about 10,000 miles on it...bought that one new too, I had the roof chopped off of it and had a factory t-top roof welded in place...couldn't get t-tops from the factory with the 350 TPI back then. You know, I just may been the 1st person to have done a t-top conversion that way...that was done back in 1994. That car was black with the camel tan leather interior. GOD I MISS THAT CAR!

 

Patman is our official oil testing expert, that's not abuse. He's just conducting research on the viscosity and thermal break down characteristics of various brands of oil under the most extreme driving conditions.

 

i like the lt1 its a good little motor, but then on the other hand Im never happy and always want more and to go faster not even cramin a 572cu in under the hood would make me happy. I dont see the big arguement of ls1 and lt1 every platform has its limits and can only go so fast. when my car was just a stripper it would keep up with bolt on ls1s.

bye the way 1993-1997 look way better.

 

Yep, and even with all that full throttle driving, I've still posted the best oil analysis results yet on an LT1 engine, so it seems my driving habits are not shortening my engine's life one bit.

What is the point of owning a fast car if you're not going to put the pedal to the medal as often as you can?

 

Patman, I know you've said this 1000 times but I forget ... What brand oil are you running now in your LT1? How many miles are on your engine? Are you still running it longer then the suggested 3000 mile intervals ?
By the way, I PM'd you.

 

I didn't recieve the PM, or did you send me a private email to the email address in my profile? (in which case I will not be able to read it until I get home from work)

I run the German Castrol Syntec 0w30, along with a K&N HP3002 oil filter (the bigger one)

I've got 102,000 miles on my engine, and it runs as strong as ever (see sig for quarter mile times with only one single modification on it)

My current plan is to do 4 month intervals for my oil changes, which means this one coming up in the warm months should have about 7000 miles on it by the end of the summer, while the ones in the colder months will be 5-6k. My last interval was 6200 miles and the report showed tons of life left in the oil.

 

I love my LT1 i bought it for 5k and i have been finding out lately why i got it so cheap. I have to replace EVERYTHING. This is good though as i can build it the way i want to and from what Llyod has been doing lately that is the way oi am going with my car hopefully by the end of summer a BUILT 355 cu with a nasty Cam and Head setup. We will see what kinda #'s it puts down then.

In short, I would not trade my damn LT1 for a ferrari or any other car on the road (cause insurance is CHEAP no matter what i do to it.)

 

Wear and tear, things like valvesprings still break down...tickets, gas prices...but thats just me

more power to you

 

Well I saw a Yugo once at the track with loads of nitrous that ran 13's........was that car awesome in your book too?? I'll take a car that runs 12's all day rather than one who needs nitrous. The only car I ever had nitrous on my my 8 second street race Duster. Using it on a street car is like standing on a box to claim you are 6 feet tall. In your reasoning almost any car could hang with an LS1 if you pushed enough nitrous into it. So for a fair comparason throw that nitrous bottle on an LS1 and still see if your LT1 is faster.

 

You are totally missing the point. Your statement said that it took a "HECK" of a lot of money to make an LT1 fast. I proved you wrong. You can make an LT1 faster than an LS1 for less than the cost of an LS1 period. Also, if that LS1 has low mileage at all, even a nice head and cam package will make it faster than an LS1 for less than the cost of the LS1. Sure, if you put the same mod on the LS1 it WILL be faster, but that isn't what you or I was arguing. You said that it took tons of money to make an LT1 fast and I strongly disagree.

BTW, excuses about the use of nitrous are only for those who wish they had it. It is no different than a supercharger or turbocharger, yet you would consider them to be coshier while you incinuate that nitrous is cheating. To each his own, and you can run what you brung. If you don't have nitrous and someone smokes you, feel free to bitch all ya want, but ya still get your *** handed to ya... bottom line...

Also, there are limits to nitrous, you can't just throw a 200hp shot on anything and expect it to be able to hold, like a 13 second yugo with a 250hp shot. That probably isn't a stock motor. A stock LT1 motor can easily handle a 150 wet shot without even having to be tuned...

 

I love my lt1. im on my second lt1 for this car.. the last one a valve smashed into a piston with only 70k on the short block.. so that was my fault.. then my bolt on setup went 12.5 at best and consistantly 12.6-7. now i have a cam and see what it does this year. I am now looking to get another f-body to drive everyday, and i can't decide ls1-lt1?