Here's the power goal: ~490 RWHP with the new TFS heads, Powerdyne 6 PSI kit overdriven by 7.5% impellor rpm, custom cam matched to the flow numbers on the heads for optimum street power. I am thinking maybe a Scat 3.75 crank would be ok with some kind of 5140 rods and a good set of mid-priced forged pistons, along with studded 2-bolt mains. Will this suffice for my estimated power level? Also, would it suffice for an additinoal 50 or 75 shot later on ...(should I need even more power)?

If I could get a budget 383 rotating assembly for $1,100 or so that could take some abuse I think that's what I'm looking for.

Also, anyone tried the new TFS heads? Seem to be a pretty good deal and they are big heads which would be good for a 383.

 

You are talking fwhp approaching 600. If you want the engine to live a while, especially with additional nitrous, you should probably consider a very strong bottom end.

This topic has been covered a lot, but here's my take for your power goals:

use a good forged crank. Cast Scat 9000 would be borderline
use good forged rods
use pistons designed for your boost and nitrous plans
use 4-bolt steel caps and studs

You won't do this for $1100. IMO, you may need lots more money for this engine than you think.

You might consider having someone design and build your engine for you. I don't think this is a DIY first engine project.

My $.02

 

I agree with the above post.

Rich Krause

 

Yep, it's not gonna be cheap, and it never is.

 

For that amount of power I beleive cast anything is almost out of the question.

A cast steel crank may hold ,but why take the chance. A block that is in tip top shape is needed as well, dont be cheap on the machining.

 

I agree with the rest. Also a search and time would answer a lot of your questions.

 

If you weren't planning on using such big power adders, I'd advise a hypereutectic assembly...KB T6-heated pistons...good rings and rod...

Since you'll be running boost you'll have to look into the dished pistons and possibly do some work with your combustion chambers...

Locally I can get a hypereutectic 383 for $1100...which includes ALL parts, balance, decking, strip down and rebuild...

Let me know if you want their number...I've talked to a lot of people who have been quoted unbelievable prices and they'd actually be saving through shipping + the cost...

 

I used an eagle rotating assembly forged crank,forged rods,srp 18cc dished pistons, clevite h brgs,and rings paid 1495.00 for the kit it held up to d1sc 15 lbs boost

 

The machine shop called today and say my old stuff looks pretty bad.....even the crank, rods, and caps don't look so great. Mike383LT1, it seems like the kit you have is pretty popular and works well ....to me it seems very reasonable since it's all forged and comes with bearings. This is likely the way I will go, along with 4-bolt mains. You may as well say it's an extra 1K over a cast/stock 2-bolt combo but in the end I think it would be worth it. OldSStroker, I am not building the engine myself. My mechanic and machine shop will do that. I am using posts like these to learn as much as possible and I actually do have someone who's very knowledgeable coaching me through this. He tells me I should be fine with stock crank and rods as long as I stay away from the nitrous, in his experience he has never had a stock crank/rod failure. He also tells me at or around 500 HP is the limit though .....so it sounds too risky to me. I thought a good inbetween solution would be something like a Scat crank since I'm using a measly Powerdyne, from what you all say maybe not though.....especially if I use N2O later on. I'm beginning to think the peace of mind would be worth using the budget forged parts like the Eagle assembly (budget for forged anyway). If I could get the whole shortblock done all forged and 4-bolt for 3K I could live with that ....does that sound realistic? Also, should I use a keyed hub? ...how much extra is that?

 

if your patient i will soon be selling my asp keyed hub if not you can call asp at 1-877-928-8678 you must ask for it you will not find it in the catalog

if you use the eagle assem. the crank is already keyed just install the keyed hub

 

What about the Callies Dragonslayer crank, is it a lot better than the Eagle? I have seen posts that suggest that and people talk about getting the rotating assembly for $1,700. Does the Callies have the keyed crank? I definitely may be interested in your hub.

 

do not know i'll let you know when i'm ready to sell just ordered an ati superdampner 398.00 not an easy pill to swallow

 

you wana play you gota pay

 

Don't know if this is true for eveyone but I have heard if a really good balance job is done and you are using good forged parts you really don't need an aftermarket dampner. What has caused you to need this ...anything? Are you rebuilding again or something?

 

yes. dont know if it will be t88 setup or 396 with a fogger