What are your thoughts on this setup?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 726
From: Glendale, AZ
What are your thoughts on this setup?
Manley 5.7 H beam rods w/2000 bolts
Probe 383 flat top piston 12336-40
Scatt 9000 383 crank 9-103750L
Double roller timing set-005
CB663HN rod bearings
MS909H+001 main bearings
Plasmamoly ring set R8902+40
Felpro gasket set 260-1650
HA2148 hydraulic lifters
CH8 durabond cam bearing set
M55HV oil pump
EPW 1pc 80 wall moly pushrods
Pioneer oil pump stud kit
Milodon 30909 oil pan
Milodon pickup
LT1 stock casting heads
Intake Max 268 @ 600
Exhaust Max 201 @ 600
2.02/1.60 valves
Comp 7/16" Ultra 1.6 NSA RR
ARP 7/16" Studs
Dual Springs
LT1 stock intake
Light porting
58mm TB
42 lb SVOs
Lunati Voodoo cam 60123
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2800-6400
Customer of mine just had this motor built at a shop here in town. I know the heads are choking the cam and cubes, but ran out of money for new heads. TFS are definitely in the near future. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Probe 383 flat top piston 12336-40
Scatt 9000 383 crank 9-103750L
Double roller timing set-005
CB663HN rod bearings
MS909H+001 main bearings
Plasmamoly ring set R8902+40
Felpro gasket set 260-1650
HA2148 hydraulic lifters
CH8 durabond cam bearing set
M55HV oil pump
EPW 1pc 80 wall moly pushrods
Pioneer oil pump stud kit
Milodon 30909 oil pan
Milodon pickup
LT1 stock casting heads
Intake Max 268 @ 600
Exhaust Max 201 @ 600
2.02/1.60 valves
Comp 7/16" Ultra 1.6 NSA RR
ARP 7/16" Studs
Dual Springs
LT1 stock intake
Light porting
58mm TB
42 lb SVOs
Lunati Voodoo cam 60123
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
RPM Range: 2800-6400
Customer of mine just had this motor built at a shop here in town. I know the heads are choking the cam and cubes, but ran out of money for new heads. TFS are definitely in the near future. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,800
That is a cast crank, WEAKER than stock.
To make valves that size work right you need to replace the seats, BIG waste of money as 2.00/1.56 fits the stock seats right and are capable of big power. For most builds PROPERLY ported stock castings are the right choice even on many track only cars, don't dismiss them.
Lunati's cam card seems not to be LT1 specific because with a LT1 intake a cam 10degrees smaller will make power to 7000rpms easily.
I would call this a pretty typical build, open a catalog and start ordering INSTEAD of doing research on what actually works.
That is why so many stroker cars are slower than the stock shortblock cars that have owners capable of research.
To make valves that size work right you need to replace the seats, BIG waste of money as 2.00/1.56 fits the stock seats right and are capable of big power. For most builds PROPERLY ported stock castings are the right choice even on many track only cars, don't dismiss them.
Lunati's cam card seems not to be LT1 specific because with a LT1 intake a cam 10degrees smaller will make power to 7000rpms easily.
I would call this a pretty typical build, open a catalog and start ordering INSTEAD of doing research on what actually works.
That is why so many stroker cars are slower than the stock shortblock cars that have owners capable of research.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 142
From: Glendale, AZ
That is a cast crank, WEAKER than stock.
To make valves that size work right you need to replace the seats, BIG waste of money as 2.00/1.56 fits the stock seats right and are capable of big power. For most builds PROPERLY ported stock castings are the right choice even on many track only cars, don't dismiss them.
Lunati's cam card seems not to be LT1 specific because with a LT1 intake a cam 10degrees smaller will make power to 7000rpms easily.
I would call this a pretty typical build, open a catalog and start ordering INSTEAD of doing research on what actually works.
That is why so many stroker cars are slower than the stock shortblock cars that have owners capable of research.
To make valves that size work right you need to replace the seats, BIG waste of money as 2.00/1.56 fits the stock seats right and are capable of big power. For most builds PROPERLY ported stock castings are the right choice even on many track only cars, don't dismiss them.
Lunati's cam card seems not to be LT1 specific because with a LT1 intake a cam 10degrees smaller will make power to 7000rpms easily.
I would call this a pretty typical build, open a catalog and start ordering INSTEAD of doing research on what actually works.
That is why so many stroker cars are slower than the stock shortblock cars that have owners capable of research.
Last edited by 357LT1; Mar 3, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
From: Daytona Beach, FL
You say your sure "Roger" took care of the seats. You got a bill for this work didn't you? You would know for sure if you paid for 16 new seats. I dunno about those lifters, never heard of them. Is it running yet?
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,152
From: Woodstown, NJ
Cast Scat crank, barf. Like Dwayne mentioned, save a buck and pick up a stock crank from somewhere. It will be much more reliable than that cast Scat crap.
M155HV pump, barf. Not only do you likely not even need a HV pump, but the 155s have a weak casting and have been known to break. The MUCH better alternative is the 10554.
M155HV pump, barf. Not only do you likely not even need a HV pump, but the 155s have a weak casting and have been known to break. The MUCH better alternative is the 10554.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 142
From: Glendale, AZ
When I get back home from Cleveland, I'll check one of the 3 invoice I got back from shop. One of them has all the parts and labor just for the heads. Now remember, list above was all I think was needed to post to show what the setup would look like. Wasn't going to type all parts and pieces along with block and heads labor.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 142
From: Glendale, AZ
I disagree, only catalog part I chose was the cam. Everything else was Standard Machine. Only thing I was worried about them building my motor is that he is an OLD school guy and really doesn't do too many LTX and LSX builds. He is well know in the drag circuit in AZ, so needless to say he was a little tentative about 11.1 compression I asked for and using that cam on an a 110 LSA for a street car. Engine not installed yet. Shop was really backed up with work, just got motor back a week ago, now I'm in Cleveland for 3 weeks.
Last edited by 357LT1; Mar 3, 2010 at 06:21 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 459
From: Daytona Beach, FL
Cast Scat crank, barf. Like Dwayne mentioned, save a buck and pick up a stock crank from somewhere. It will be much more reliable than that cast Scat crap.
M155HV pump, barf. Not only do you likely not even need a HV pump, but the 155s have a weak casting and have been known to break. The MUCH better alternative is the 10554.
M155HV pump, barf. Not only do you likely not even need a HV pump, but the 155s have a weak casting and have been known to break. The MUCH better alternative is the 10554.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 142
From: Glendale, AZ
It's going to be real hard to find a stock crank with the same stroke since he has a 383. There are much better choices than that crank however. If the engines not in the car yet I would change the crank to something forged. I agree with you on the pump. I would just use a stock pump with the white spring.
Last edited by 357LT1; Mar 3, 2010 at 10:28 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 142
From: Glendale, AZ