Not really here to flame, because I'm trying to learn what parts are recommended for the day I need/want a rebuild...
But you started this thread asking what people thought, and you seem to be in denial about the consensus... As if you didn't really care how people were really going to respond...
Hope if works out for you, and am interested to see how your motor performs for you!

 

Yes, that scat crank is weaker than the stock one. I don't care how it's balanced it is still weaker. You used forged rods and pistons and a weak crank. If you search on here you will find threads pertaining to the snout of that crank breaking off. The pump your builder used would be good in a older 350 but not in your LT1. Those 2.02/1.60 valves also do well in a older small block. Not in your LT1. But I am done, you asked for peoples opinion but obviously don't care what we have to say.

 

I hope it works out too, thanks man.To clarify, I did not start this thread. My friend who owns the shop that pulled my motor and will be doing the install, hopefully soon, is the one that started it. I didn't even know about it until last night, I was in my hotel and I did a Google search on the Voodoo 60123 to see if I can see any more results from others with that cam other than the one I've found before. So I came acroos this post and noticed who posted it and my parts. It looks like he copy and pasted the items I posted on our club forum here in AZ around the same time, I'm not mad at Sean one bit. Looks like he is just as curious as me to see how it will perform and was looking for thoughts, maybe HP guess? Not sure?

My issue here is with people saying I wasted my money on going to a local machine shop with a great reputation that has $10K-15K complete engines on stands ready for pickup all over his shop, one being an LSX going into a GTO that I believe was $12k. So if I can't trust an engine builder with 25+ years of experience, not just building monster engines but also getting behind the wheel of monster cars then I guess it's a shame on me? And shame on my friend for recommending them too I guess!

 

Like I mentioned above, the reasearch I did led me to believe I would be ok. Like most people here say, use the search feature before asking repetetive stuff? Has been discussed over and over is what I always read on post! That's what I did! As far as pump and other parts for build go, that was a concern of mine going into this. He is an old school guy that may not see too many LTX or LSX stuff, I took that risk I guess. And once again, I didn't ask for anyones opinion on here but it's not that I don't care about them. I'm just defending the time and advice my friends gave me. Honestly though, thanks for your inputs. Truley! I'll keep you guys posted!

 

Only thing I regret is not spending the money I saved on crank to send my heads to Lloyd. Didn't think I had the time to, but shop ended up taking a lot longer than expected. I will be in touch when I'm looking at aftermarket castings. This build wasn't even planned, I was actually searching for complete motors on Craigslist and forums, trying to get a deal from someone who built a stout motor that may be in need for fast cash or went another direction with build. I ended up staying local and I think I made a good choice, time will tell.

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-bad-idea.html

That is just one of many nice post I've came across in the last 3-4 months, my favorite quote being, "If you make enough power to break a cast crank, I will be impressed." and the same person added "I have never owned a forged crank in my life, and I have never hurt a crank. I beat everything I own like a red headed step child. There are others in there.

Looks like high RPM not power would cause an issue with a cast crank, but like mentioned before a good machine shop to check clearances and balance the assembly would be #1. Won't need to spin 385 to 6800 like I did the 357, so that's why the high RPM's weren't an issue for me.

 

You can find "information" to validate any preconceived notion you want on the internet.

Those of us saying the Eagle cast cranks are weaker than stock say so based on the large number of failures we have seen on forums, don't see stock cranks fail even when used in rebuilds so that kind of throws out the balance idea as the cause.

 

I agree with that. As far as the Eagle cast cranks, was aware of that during my research and why I went with the Scat cast. Better material and better results from people using them. It's not just the balancing, like I stated above there is an RPM limit the manufacture puts on those cast units. So when someone goes with a 355 and replaces the stock and spins it to 7K regularly, that's an issue. There are tons of scenarios on the web comparing stock vs aftermarket cast in a rebuild, guess what? It wasn't an option to keep stock crank again as I went the stroker route . No one should be spinning a stroker that high and my research was based on how a stroker does with a Scat 9000.

 

You can debate about it all day long, but you won't have any peace of mind until you put in a GOOD forged crank. If you're on a budget, look at www.ohiocrank.com and pick up a 4340. I have one in my 383 and they are reasonably priced.

We're not saying that the Scat will definitely break, but for the marginally higher cost (and since money is obviously not a concern here), why wouldn't you go with a forged piece? Do it once. Do it right. Been there, done that.

 

This is one of the silliest post I've seen on here in a while! You don't and didn't want advice!! You wanted confirmation. You already said what your going to do and who's going to do it, so why not stop responding and just post up after everything is done. Then you can tell us how great it is and post picts.

 

I think the general over all idea looks fine, the SCAT cranks had a good rep last time I thought.... Also why are we comparing stock crank 3.48 and a totally different crank 3.75 in strength he can not use his stocker if he is going for 383.

He has an aftermarket pan, might as well go with HV pump (get the stronger one if possible so it does not crack). Unless your concerned with how much power the HV pump will use up.

Reamo used that cam in one of his cars if I am not mistaken, I am running the size below that 60122 (times in sig, stock UNPORTED heads). So I think you would be OK for now and you have some head work done already.

I don't know seems like the scat crank would be ok to me unless their quality has went down the toilet just like eagle.

 

Just because he's going with an aftermarket pan does not automatically mean he should get a high volume pump. There's much more to it than that.

 

Yes we can debate all day long, but no need to. I'm sure I'm at peace with my decision, I've heard good things about Ohio cranks but my motor is complete waiting for install. I never said I had all the money to spend, because I make it and have it doesn't mean I can just use it. I'm married with 3 kids, not easy to go get a couple G's out of savings or put $10k on a credit card without the misses flipping out! So a budget was set where over time I could make some bank transactions here and there. She knows car went under the knife, just not how bad it was.

 

Silly part is you took the time to type all that crap above. Yes, I didn't ask advice. Or confirmation either! Engine is complete and like mentioned, I'll be glad to keep you posted. I'm responding to negetive comments. Advice, thoughts or recommendations is one thing, maybe what I should of done instead? Trash talking about a setup being a waste of money is another!

 

Same feeling I got after my search, good results with the Scat 9000 series.
I would of used probably used that 60122 if I would of kept it .040 over. Those are good track numbers for stock heads, nice trap! Have a friend still working out some wrinkels in his setup, actually has all forged 4 bolt 355 LT4 with AFR's, custom cam and all the goodies. He is looking for another 6 mph or so. Knowing that, it would be rude to say it was a waste of money the time and money he spent.