How hard is it?

 

Didn't you just ask about this? hmm... someone did a few days ago.

Anyway, there are 6 bolts that hold the stock crossmember to the frame. Support the motor, loosen those bolts, support the suspension and stearing rack, disconnect misc tubes and cables and out it comes. new one goes in much easier. Tie wrap the brack tubing back on, re-attach all the suspension (I recommend the adjustable lower A-Arms since if you don't get them you may have some alingment woes like I did (BIG bill).

If you have a Canton Oil Pan, investigate your options since the stearing rack will contact the pan (like it does with the current stock crossmember). Personally I think I like the design of the BMR K-Member over the PA unit, but whichever you get make sure they mount the stearing rack about 1/2" lower than stock if you have the Canton Oil Pan.

Much cleaner underneith to work with with a tubular k-member.

Did I mention to make sure you have a BF air impact gun to loosen the suspension bolts if they are rusty?

Oh Yeah, ask the manufactur about clearance issues with the long tubes. I had to modify my PA crossmember for the Hooker LTs.

DaveW

 

I just installed a BMR K-member -- very nice piece. But I can't help you too much since I had the motor out, and when I reinstalled the engine, I just bolted the K-member to the engine then installed it from the bottom.

BMR just added tabs for the brake lines by the wheels which is a really nice touch. I had to do some clearancing for my headers to fit though -- but I'm running mid-length Borla headers. It doesn't look like long-tubes would have any clearance problems.

I wish I would have thought about having BMR weld the steering rack mounting brackets on 1/2" lower -- I had to clearance my Canton pan

One thing that I did that's a first for BMR -- I got rubber bushings instead of poly. I wanted to try to keep the vibrations down and I figured the small diameter rubber bushings would be more than adequate.