what does it takes to beat an LS1?
what does it takes to beat an LS1?
My friend owns a 2000 trans-am(not the ram air) i think stock its 305 horses,auto,he only has a K&N air filter in it,he says his car will beat the crap out of mine.Mine its a 97z28,6M,SLP CAI,airfoil,LT4 km,1.5 drop,and cutout.What else should i get done to my car to win this race?what times you guys think we run?
My friend owns a 2000 trans-am(not the ram air) i think stock its 305 horses,auto,he only has a K&N air filter in it,he says his car will beat the crap out of mine.Mine its a 97z28,6M,SLP CAI,airfoil,LT4 km,1.5 drop,and cutout.What else should i get done to my car to win this race?what times you guys think we run?
I disagree. It definitely takes more than just headers. A few years back I had almost all bolt ons including headers and exhaust and mine barely kept up with stock LS1s. I was trapping about 106-107 mph at the time. The only way I could really see the average bolt on LT1 consistently outrunning LS1 cars is if the LS1 cars are poorly driven.
my friend had a 2002 SS, and with bolt ons, ram air, and my long tube headers i pulled away from him at the line and by around 90 he very slowly started to creep but he had mods too. dunno maybe its the driver
The simple answer is: given a platform, i.e, the F-Body camaro with the same transmission, rearend, weight and driver's abilities, the car with the more horsepower and torque (cammed for drag racing----assuming equal traction) should prevail.
Having said that, since the Lt1/SS came out of the box with between 310-315 at the crank, or around 265 to the rear, and the Ls1, vintage 98 came out of the box with about 340-350 at the crank, or around 290-300 to the rear, one can pretty much conclude that the Ls1 will prevail.
When you prepare the Lt1 to provide and equal or more HP/TQ than the LS1 in question, then you should---from a technical stand point-----prevail.
We're not talking rocket surgery here.
Having said that, since the Lt1/SS came out of the box with between 310-315 at the crank, or around 265 to the rear, and the Ls1, vintage 98 came out of the box with about 340-350 at the crank, or around 290-300 to the rear, one can pretty much conclude that the Ls1 will prevail.
When you prepare the Lt1 to provide and equal or more HP/TQ than the LS1 in question, then you should---from a technical stand point-----prevail.
We're not talking rocket surgery here.
The simple answer is: given a platform, i.e, the F-Body camaro with the same transmission, rearend, weight and driver's abilities, the car with the more horsepower and torque (cammed for drag racing----assuming equal traction) should prevail.
Having said that, since the Lt1/SS came out of the box with between 310-315 at the crank, or around 265 to the rear, and the Ls1, vintage 98 came out of the box with about 340-350 at the crank, or around 290-300 to the rear, one can pretty much conclude that the Ls1 will prevail.
When you prepare the Lt1 to provide and equal or more HP/TQ than the LS1 in question, then you should---from a technical stand point-----prevail.
We're not talking rocket surgery here.
Having said that, since the Lt1/SS came out of the box with between 310-315 at the crank, or around 265 to the rear, and the Ls1, vintage 98 came out of the box with about 340-350 at the crank, or around 290-300 to the rear, one can pretty much conclude that the Ls1 will prevail.
When you prepare the Lt1 to provide and equal or more HP/TQ than the LS1 in question, then you should---from a technical stand point-----prevail.
We're not talking rocket surgery here.

It's obvious that you have to match or exceed the power of the LS-1 to be able to beat it in a race. The real question at hand is what modifications are necessary to achieve that power level.
Again, it depends on how much more HP/TQ you need. I.e, how much HP/TQ does the LS1 have? If we are talking Stock v. Stock, you will obviously need to gain at least 50 hp. So, assuming the LS1 remains the same, then the Lt1 will need to add at least 50 HP.
So: Starting with 300 (for the sake of arguement) we begin by adding a CAI, 1.6 RRs, LT headers and mail-order tune.
CAI=8 RWHP+-
1.6 RRS= 12 RWHP+-
LT Headers=15 RWHP+-
Tuning=10 RWHP+-
Total RWHP gain= 45+- (bearing in mind that it is the combination that makes the differences in gains).
So using 15% loss +- you should have around 353 hp to the crank---which gives you about the same power as the out-of-the box LS1.
Of course there are different things and combinations that will provide the needed numbers, but the above are basically the bolt-on that will do the trick.
So: Starting with 300 (for the sake of arguement) we begin by adding a CAI, 1.6 RRs, LT headers and mail-order tune.
CAI=8 RWHP+-
1.6 RRS= 12 RWHP+-
LT Headers=15 RWHP+-
Tuning=10 RWHP+-
Total RWHP gain= 45+- (bearing in mind that it is the combination that makes the differences in gains).
So using 15% loss +- you should have around 353 hp to the crank---which gives you about the same power as the out-of-the box LS1.
Of course there are different things and combinations that will provide the needed numbers, but the above are basically the bolt-on that will do the trick.
for an a4 stall converter and sticky tires... end of thread
but seeing that you have a m6 u will need sticky tires and the things mentioned by bubba. given that your driving skills are equal.
but seeing that you have a m6 u will need sticky tires and the things mentioned by bubba. given that your driving skills are equal.
o right guys i feel a bit more confident now,i was at the track last weekend and i kept running 13.9-14.1 at 98-100mph,this was before airfoil and LT4 km,i still have $700 to throw in my car, should i get headers or some slicks?


