First of all should I use a 1 or 2 pc? I am running about 600hp @ 12lb boost.
I was thinking of some 3.75 or 3.875 4340 callies or a 3.48 that will handle that. If I make it a stroker do I halfto alter my engine in any other ways? I don't know I'm just getting into this and I don't know much about this stuff so I really need some help.

 

First of all should I use a 1 or 2 pc?

LT1 blocks have a 1-piece rear main seal.

I am running about 600hp @ 12lb boost. I was thinking of some 3.75 or 3.875 4340 callies or a 3.48 that will handle that.

Callies is an excellent crank. They will sell you a complete, balanced rotating assembly at a reasonable price.

If I make it a stroker do I halfto alter my engine in any other ways? I don't know I'm just getting into this and I don't know much about this stuff so I really need some help

We were all beginners once. However, you should also plan to discuss this with the machine shop who will be doing the work. The block will need to be clearanced to accomodate the larger stroke. Much easier with 383 (3.75" stroke) than for a 383. Most any performance build should have a number of other operations.

The following is "Basic Block Prep 101" that you can do yourself prior to the machine shop

• Remove all plugs, remaining sealant, etc.
• Clean it
• Debur it
• Clean up all threads, repair if needed
• Clean it again
• Coat unpainted surfaces with rust preventing lubricant

After you get it back from the machine shop there may be additional deburing needed and it should be cleaned agian, twice, including blowing out all passages with compressed air. All plugs (freeze plugs, any oil gallery plugs, etc.) need to be replaced after final cleaning. The basic operations for the machine shop will include installing 4-bolt main caps and align honing the mains, decking the block, boring and honing to the correct size and finish, clearancing for stroker crank, replace cam bearings. You need to bring your crank, rods, and pistons with the block to the shop. There are many "race prep" operations that can be performed on the block. These include the following in addition to the above. Most of these will not be needed on a street or street/strip setup.

• Checking deck and cylinder location and correct if needed.
• Main cap register machining.
• Machine and index lifter bores.
• Index cylinder bores.
• Cut O-Ring grooves in decks.
• Line boring the mains.
• Etc.

This thread belongs in LT1 Tech.

Rich

 

If money is no object then the Callies is an excellent crank (Magnum or Racemaster), if money is an object then go with the Callies Dragonslayer.

I found a good deal for my Eagle 4340 forged crank (524$) or I would have went with the Draginslayer (was 799$ at the time)