well, as it turns out, my LT1 has a rod knock now. thinkin something must have gotten in the pan when I was doin the head/cam install over the winter. there is metal specks in the oil filter to go along w/the knocking noise. Im plannin on replacing the bearings w/o taking out the eng. since I can use my hoist at work and hopefully save myself alot of time. but if something looks messed up other then just the bearings themselves, then the eng. will come out and I'll go through it all.

I want a high press/volume oilpump, but what one works good in these LT1s? same as standard small chevy? also, if the crank/rods look damaged, I'll take it all apart and install forged crank/rods/pistons. what crank has the best strength-vs- price ratio? how much power can the stock LT1 crank take if I just get rods/pistons? if I get a crank/rods/pistons, I'll do the 383. what crank/rods/pistons work good for this? just trying to see who has used what with good results. guess I'll have to start doin some homework.
chris

 

You don't need a high pressure pump, high volume is ok.

Bang for the buck wise, Eagle forged I beams and SRP forged pistons (mine have valve reliefs) are good. Thats what I did using the stock crank and I'll be spraying 200.

 

thanks, where did you buy yours and how much? you think the stock crank can handle 650 horsepower then? sounds like alot to ask to me. Id like to see who's done it.

 

I would take exception on the high volume oil pump.... stock volume and pressure is fine for a relatively stock engine. If you start pushing a 7,000rpm redline or above, you want to blueprint the stock pump, tack weld the pickup, and go the the "white" pressure relief spring to give you the required 10psi/1,000rpm. I've seen the stock pump/white spring support 7,000-8,000rpm LT1's, putting out 800-1,100HP. And the stock pan will work just fine, with a little gentle tapping to clear a 3.75" crank.

You can use an iron crank to over 500HP. The stock PM rods are rated to 450HP but will work at a little over 500HP. The stock pistons, or a low $$$ hypereutectic will work fine in most normally aspirated engines (obviously you need different pistons for a 383). For a blower or nitrous.... a forged crank, forged rods and forged pistons. My personal choices were the Callies 4340 Stealth crank, Oliver billet 5.85" rods and BME custom "nitrous" pistons. That was done with 800HP in mind.

 

well, thats more in line with what I was thinkin. 500HP out of the stock crank. with this cam, I believe it only makes power till around 6500, but if Im buying the whole rotating asembly, I want it to be able to handle in the area of 700HP on the N20. if I do rebuild the rotating assembly, it will be built with N20 in mind. and if the stock crank is reachin its limit at 500HP, well then thats not even close. Id like to do a 200HP shot like the other guy.

I cant afford to pay top dollar for the best of the best, so let me restate what Im looking for.

what I am looking for is the rotating assembly that will allow me to make around600-700HP on the spray, and be as cheap as possible. and if I do have to get a crank to handle that, might as well go 383 right?

where do you get a "white" spring from? and, if the stock pumps are ok, why do all LT1's have low oil press. all the time? way I see it, I dont mind giving up a few horsepower at higher rpms to get higher oil press. all the time. am I wrong to think that? if so, why?

 

Not sure where you are getting the idea that "all LT1's have low oil press. all the time?".... my stock/bolt-on engine with a 125-shot of dry nitrous was still pushing the same oil pressure it left the factory with, 70K miles later when I decided to go the stroker route. I can only relate to what I've already told you about, with engines up to 1,100HP. If you've already made up your mind, get whatever you want.

 

well I havent made up my mind and am only just now starting to see whats available. as in low oil press, Im talking about when warm, the gauge at idle reads just over or at the first mark. I never did put a real gauge on it, maybe I'll do that before I take it apart. so I can see before and after oil press. readings. so where can I get a "white" spring from if thats all I really need to rev. to 6700~rpm?
thanks

 

also, I wanted to hear if people are getting away with spraying 200HP at a full bolt on car thats already making around 400RWHP if I put in just the forged ibeam rods and forged pistons.

 

Hmm, it's interesting to hear you say that all LT1's have low oil pressure. I have 100 miles on my rebuild with Keith Black Hypereutechtic .020 over 12 cc dished pistons (10.7 CR with a zero deck block), stock crank, H-beams, ported LT1 heads, CC305, and SLP headers. The engine now reads about 15 pounds at warm idle and 30 pounds at cruise. And, I installed a new oil pressure sender.

The pressure doesn't seem to increase with revs although I have not run the car too hard yet. I have the stock pump and pan. It's hard not to worry about the oil pressure given that is is lower by about 10 pounds then before the work. I guess I'll just run it and see what happens.

BTW, the H-beams did tap the windage tray and I needed to remove the oil Pan (raise engine on hoist, lower K-member) and clearance the WT with a hammer and put it all back together.

Jim

 

Ive decided on my winter buildup and the RA is going to Callies dragonslayer crank, Oliver forged Rods and JE Proforged pistons.
you could do Lunati pro mod rods for 500$ less so say 2200-2300 for a pretty decent RA. , Ill also be spraying a 200-250 shot ontop of that. If this helps.


later,
-john

 

thats what I was afraid of and thats why I was figureing better safe then sorry. although yours sounds even lower then Id expect. the oil press. should def. be rising though with rpm. good luck with it.

keep the combo's coming. thanks

 

Cheap:
H-beams,
Scat, Eagle, Manley w/upgrade to L19 or 2000 ARP bolts. Scat's will likely be the least expensive....

I'd personally go with a 5.85 length, so figure another $50 in with the price... they're usually a bit more.

Crank,
4340 Scat, Summit, Eagle are ~$600-650

Pistons,
SRP, Diamond, Probe (nitrous pistons)

Once you do all the adding, you have to figure in cost of balancing and other items like rings etc. So compare that to maybe a reciprocating assembly package. Might find a better deal buying the package somewhere.

-Mindgame

 

Stock oil pump and oil pan here!

Rich Krause

 

BTW my setup was a budget 355. I only spray occasionally that's why I kept the stock crank.

 

well, I talked my boss into letting me take the eng. out and reinstall it at work. so I can use my hoist. now I just have to talk my domestic boss into letting me get the forged R.A. . I'll more then likely get a package from somewhere. seems alot easier since they are complete and already balanced. might cost a litle extra though. seems if I do get the crank/rods/pistons, it'll cost me between $1700-$2500 to go forged.
this sucks