So what is the best fitting header? I want to still run the O2 sensors but eliminate the air pump and all that plumbing. Are there any drive ability issues with removing the air pump and will I have to do anything with the tune or can I run the stock PCM program?

I have heard Kooks is the best? Looking for a good bolt in system.

 

Sorry. Looking for a 1997 LT1 Z28.

 

So Kooks says I have to dyno chassis tune the car if I buy their headers. That sound about right?

 

All headers have their issues on install. It also depends on what type of header you're looking for - short tube, mid tube, or long tube.

Fact is though if you're a competent mechanic installing headers isn't that difficult, especially once you do your homework on the various types and brands.

I will say that Kooks seems to have the best fitment, but for $1200 (and the next closest long tube header is half that cost) I'll certainly pass.

 

I have a set of kooks 1 3/4 headers and ypipe with the jethot coating. put about 4k on the car since install

They tuck up against the body very nicely. I didnt spend as much time playing with them as i could have and i lost an inch or two of ground clearance to the driver side of the ypipe because it was stubborn and i just left it, but I havent had any problems bottoming out and this car is my DD all summer.

to make them fit I did have to delete my oil cooler and am now forced to run a shorter oil filter. Although you could just move the oil cooler and run as big of a filter as you want.

not sure how AIR is affected as my 93 never had it but for just headers you shouldn't NEED a tune although if you want it to run right and get all the power it can out of them id get a mail order tune theyre much cheaper than getting on a dyno (20% of cost maybe) and you can still get 90-95% of the results

plus your gonna be droping around a grand on a set of kooks might as well get the 100 dollar tune and make it right

i used felpro gaskets and you might want to buy a set of Allan head screws to replace the 12point headers bolts they send with the kit as you cant fit normal sockets on them because the pipes are too close to the boltholes

Also make sure to re-torque every few heat/cool cycles i did this 5 times before they stopped lossening up on me

 

Cool thanks for the info!! Gotta sit down and decide I guess if they are worth it or just bolt the exhaust manifolds back on it and be done with it.

I guess I'm just a little leery of reprogramming the computer.

 

AIR does not affect the way the engine runs. The electric AIR pump only operates for a couple minutes at startup, to help the cats heat up/start working faster. Removing the AIR system in OBD-II will set codes, which will need to be "programmed out" of the PCM.

Your stock exhaust system also has EGR. Deleting that does affect the way the engine runs a small amount, as there are ignition timing adjustments programmed in as a function of the EGR operation. Again, deleting EGR will set codes that need to be programmed out as well.

Then there's the issue of the OBD-II after-cat O2 sensors. If you delete those, minimal affect on the way the engine runs (the factory manual indicates there is a minor adjustment in A/F ratio when the code for the missing cats sets), but again you either have to have them programmed out of the PCM, or get a pair of O2 "sims". The elimination of the after-cat sensors only becomes an issue if you delete the cats. The after-cat O2 connections are not on the headers. The after-cat sensors would be located on the Y-pipe.

A mail order tune on a stock setup will net you 10-15HP, so that's always a good idea, but it isn't mandatory just because you've installed headers. But since you will have to have the PCM reprogrammed to avoid codes/SES light for the elimination of the various emissions functions, have them do the additional programming, which involves adjusting the target A/F ratio in power enrichment mode.

 

For what its worth. I installed a set of Pacesetter Ceramic Coated long Tube Headers (72C2237s) on my 97 Z28 and although I can not comment on durability yet, there were no issues on installing them and they fit outstanding, and they look great, again time will tell. I choose to keep EGR, but all the Air Pump system has been removed. I capped off the air pipe extensions coming up from the headers. I personally do not see any advantage to eliminating the EGR, but the Air pump system I do not see a useful purpose for, for me. Although installing LT's can be a pain, using an engine hoist and having everything already off the block and engine bay made it easy for me to install. I also did Not have to remove the steering shaft either, and drivers side was easier than passenger side for whatever reason. I ordered premade O2 extensions versus cutting and splicing using the supplied wiring that came with the headers. I did remove cats and installed a Y pipe as well. The hardest thing I did encounter was manipulating the EGR PIPE from the headers to the Intake manifold. I also ensured that it was as far away from the backside of the intake manifold as possible to avoid issue with heat and leaking intake you hear so much about. I also purchased and used band style clamps to make it easier to take apart if need be in future. All in all I think this is one of the best mods I could have done and recommend. Sure I could have spent way more for Kooks or another brand but so far the Pacesetter looks as good as the others and as stated time will tell how the ceramic coating holds up.

 

Wow. That's some good info there. Thanks for the advice. Guess it's more of a decision if I want to pony up the cash or just run it stock and keep it for just cruising.

Those older 60's and 70's models sure were a lot easier to play with.

 

I would not expect a lot of difference in terms of power gains from one to another. I installed Hooker long tubes about 10 years ago and they are still on the car now. I don't have any immediate plans to replace my headers by if I had to do over again I would have gone with a stainless steel variety. My headers were ceramic coated by a very reputable shop and they have not held up as well as I had hoped. I live in Texas so snow and ice and salt on the roads in not a major issue with causing rust and corrosion here. What I notice is that on the collectors, I am assuming that sand/dirt from the road deteriorates the ceramic coating and the collectors become very rusty over time. The primary tubes still look like they did when I bought the headers. If money is not a concern I think stainless with ceramic coating would be the way to go, at least for durability and longevitity.

 

Thanks!! Will have to weigh all these options.

 

I went with Kooks headers and the Catted Y-pipe. Wasn't cheap, paid around 1,400.00 for them. I also went with the Felpro gaskets which I think were 25.00 bucks, new TR55plugs and some MSD wires at the same time so my total was around 1,600.00 in parts. Very expensive for a bolt on but a necessary Mod for all future growth.

If you want to delete AIR, EGR and rear O2s, order the 1 3/4" race versions like I did. (I just need Cats for smell control). Keep in mind you'll need block off plates and to tune out the Codes.

 

I installed Pacsetter LT's on mine (set me back about $250). Went in GREAT. Had to buy O2 extenders. Removed my AIR and EGR. On top of that I installed OY-Pipe, 1.6rr, and a Hotcam.

At this time I'm running untuned (and minus a LT4 KM). It's got a VERY slight surge to it but drives fine. Step on it and she REALLY moves (I have an auto and in 2nd at 60 when I punch it she'll chirp the tires). Does run pretty rich but I'm still getting decent mileage. I'm hoping to get it tuned soon. SES Light comes on about 5-6 seconds after starting engine but it's running great.

LT headers are one of the biggest WOW factors you can do to an LT1.

 

Whatever brand you get, be sure to get them coated. Didn't have my Kooks coated the first time and they sure generated a lot of heat under the hood. Also looked bad after a while.

When I had the engine out for a rebuild, I sent them off to be coated. Big difference!

Had Hookers first, the Y-pipe hung pretty low. Kooks have a lot better ground clearance. Don't know how they compare to Pacesetter.

 

I have pretty good ground clearance. The only PAIN in the *** part I had was installing the Y-pipe after I had the headers mounted. MAJOR ouch. If I ever do it again ill put that part of the Y-Pipe on before I fully mount the Driver header