Well i have a cheap Ebay cold air intake and i need to replace the filter. I decided that i wanted to just go about a new intake setup. I have two ideas so far, and i think i am going to go with the traditional ram-air, but here are some ideas, and what do you think is the best?

This is a 18x7x4 K&N filter that would fill up the entire front area of the stock bumper. The problem with this would be i dont think i would be able to have the bumper or styrofoam support, or even the radiator air deflector. It would draw in colder air though, but would also have all the intake piping to travel though which would heat it back up.

http://home.earthlink.net/~xmx/siteb...res/intake.jpg

This is a stock SLP WS6 hood. It came with my car which hit a deer at 75mph, so i figured i would modify this as i repaired it. It looks very similar to the Ultra-Z hood which i like, but this opening it much larger. I measered 17 inches from one side to the other of the inlet. The Ultra Z is about 12.

I have cut out the divider, and the water trap as you can see. In these pictures. There was only one application of body filler in the 2nd and 3rd pics. It's far from done.

http://home.earthlink.net/~3.8/siteb...ictures/ho.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~3.8/siteb...tures/bf12.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~3.8/siteb...tures/bf11.jpg

The inner opening, the one that would be right next to the air box, has not been modified. It is several inches smaller than the opening of my hood. I was thinking of taking some sheet metal and running it straight to the opening to icrease air velocity, and maybe building some angled sides so that the air comes in about a 17x3 inlet and is shrunk down to a 12x2. This would greatly increase the speed of the air entering the air box.

Any comments or suggestions? I was trying to think of ways to make a better ram air intake. Is the LS1 intake really that much better? I dont think it would really make that much of a difference. How much colder is air being sucked in from under the car, to the air being pulled in from the hood?

Thanks for looking guys,

Shawn

 

look at the ls1 style ram air hoods they seem to work better than the lt1 hoods the air goes through the hood them back down to the front of something

 

What about the LS1 lid, what does that do exactly?

 

Would an LS1 air box, or LS1 lid bemore of an improvement?

 

As simple as it gets.....

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...s/AirBox01.jpg

 

What is that, and are you talking about running with an open hood? lol

 

That's an SLP airbox, opened up a little. And I run with the hood closed..... its just a bit hard to take a picture with it closed

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP03644a.jpg

 

Injuneer, I see you removed the inside piece of fiberglass. Does that help it to line up to the air box? i havent gotten my air box yet, so i wasnt sure if i should remove that pice or not.

 

I'm almost afraid to answer, expecting the same sarcasm that my initial attempt to help got.

What "inside piece of fiberglass" are you talking about? The hood? The rear baffle has been cut out of the hood, as well as the front baffle. But its a "track only" and dry weather car, so the baffles aren't really required. The box actually sits very high. If you look into the nostrils, you see the solid front of the box.

 

Sorry i wasnt trying to be sarcastic at all. I really wasnt sure if you were taking about cutting away the plastic, or running with no hood at all. I didnt know if the inside baffle helped. See here is a pic of my hood done. I repaired it the best i could.

http://home.earthlink.net/~3.8/siteb...ctures/hd3.jpg

The inside baffle is sort of slanted so i thought that would help direct air into the box. I'm not exatcly sure how high or where the box sits just yet. So i should cut the inside baffler out for better air flow? Track car and daily driver are pretty much the same to me. I do not, however, want water getting into the engine bay, just the filter. Thats why i wanted to be precise about cutting that inner baffler.

 

Don't cut the baffles until you see the airbox. It site pretty high. I have a Griffen radiator, and it seemed to make it too high, so we cut down the stock plastic top radiator support panel and screwed it directly to the radiator, to lower the box.

I got water on the air filter when the car was being towed in the rain. Now I tow it with a foam plug in the hood. I think people cut out the baffles, and drive, and the water gets pulled right into the engine. Since they don't see the water laying on the filter, they assume "no problems".... but I can tell you the water will get in there if you cut the baffles out completely.

 

That's pretty close to how mine is... I have the front baffle completely removed, and the rear one cut down about 1", to make the airflow match the front-lip of the airbox. Then the airbox is modified with the openings cut lower in the front to match the hood when it is closed. Then a nice ridge of weatherstripping all the way around to seal it all up.

Works great, but in rain it soaks the K&N and has thrown a code before from a dirty MAF; that was the one and only time I've ever gotten caught in a hellish downpour.

 

I figured the rain would be safe. I don't drive in the rain anyway. If i ever do get stuck in the rain it's only for 10 miles or so. Some people use water injection to cool intake temps right? I figured it couldnt hurt too much. I really don't think my engine would hydrolock from this.

I'll wait until i get the air box before i modify it anymore. I want this to be as efficient as possible. I'll be cutting the air box lid to look like yours Injuneer. Do you think this will show me any gains over a dirty filter on a $20 ebay cold air intake?

Thanks,
Shawn

 

I think Max air flow is not holding you back from making more power, i think its your stock heads, cam and manifolds. I don't think you'll see a single gain from any of this. Someone like Fred might see the gains as his engine needs all the air it can get.

 

I'll be going with an LE2 here in the next month. I think that the air being drawn from outside of the engine bay would help, and also the air being forced into the filter would add a few hp at the top end.