Can the Accel be returned without paying exorbitant shipping and restocking fees? I wouldn't want to put one on my car, but our choices seem to be pretty limited these days.

 

Do you have the car on a personal car lift or at least on ramps? Otherwise, I think jacking the car up as high as you can with support stands should be more than enough to be able to get the pan removed and clear the crank and pick up.

 

Jacking the car does not increase the clearance between the oil pan and the K-Member.

 

Oh, is he asking for a clearance increase?! If he doesn't want to drop the engine and he is very limited on lifting options like I am, here is some more help for him...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...g-oil-pan.html

 

Helps if you read all the posts in a thread, so you know what's going on.

 

Oh, you didn't pick up on my sarcasm with my previous post. Yes, I read it through! Yes, there are "red-neck backyard mechanic" ways to remove the oil pan. I provided a link for the original poster to digest depending upon the tools and options available to him. That is all. I don't play the role of Captain Obvious, I comment information that I feel will be helpful to the posters of these threads and usually you search cross-forum to get as much information as you can.

 

So...... you feel we are all a bunch of “redneck backyard mechanic(s)” or you feel we are giving “Captain Obvious” responses? Interesting.

And no, I did not detect any “sarcasm” in any of your posts.

 

My suggestion: go with an electric water pump from Meziere. Get the HD.

 

I have searched many message boards

My plan is to remove tranny mount bolts, catalytic converter bolts, y pipe at flanges, remove motor mount bolts, have already removed torque converter inspection cover, oil pan bolts are out, I understand #6 piston needs to be at TDC,,,,

What am I missing as in are there a/c lines, or other lines or wires or something else

I understand I can get maybe 4 inches extra from normal engine position

What else guys??

And even if I was a back yard red neck mechanic I have met and worked some pretty bright people who might be red necks

Thanks

 

Going to use dielectric grease on that one Fred, but not too much just enough to live the plug and have a bit of excess to keep dust and moisture out

Thanks for that nugget

 

Where did I say in my quote that I felt the members of this forum were "redneck backyard mechanic(s)"?! Here is my quote regarding your interpretation. Quote, "Yes, there are "red-neck backyard mechanic" ways to remove the oil pan." Where do I make the assertion that I "feel" anyone is a red-neck backyard mechanic?! Please read my comments in full.

My quote regarding "Captain Obvious", quote, "I don't play the role of Captain Obvious, I comment information that I feel will be helpful to the posters of these threads and usually you search cross-forum to get as much information as you can." Where does your comment contribute to this thread? I have made my point!

@pearlpurple
I am sure you have worked with plenty of intelligent mechanics. Please don't let Injuneer's comment and misinterpretation of what I stated make you think less of me in my attempt to give you some useful information, assuming it was. I don't know!

 

No worries thanks.

 

OK..... I'll drop out to avoid further conflict. Good luck.

 

OP

PM Injuneer if you have a ? as his experience is SIGNIFICANTLY more than Phoenix...

My $.02 on the dialectic grease. On connectors use it on the accordion rubber seal that goes on the ends of these connectors to assist in preventing fluids entering the cavity of the connector

On Opti, use it on the large O rings that the cap & case sandwich vs just smearing it on the outside of the opti seam

The FelPro one piece pan gasket is very good. Confirm the metal spacers within the old pan gasket came off with that old gasket and none are still on the rear studs of the RMS adapter. They are small and if you miss one the new gasket will not seal

I wipe both the engine block and pan with acetone a few times before installing new gasket and RTV

The FelPro pan gasket comes with 4 plastic studs that hold the gasket to engine to keep it aligned then you put pan on. While the FelPro gasket says no RTV is needed I have always used a bead of Permatex Black Ultra along the front & rear curved edge running about 1" onto the flat sides between gasket and engine block and never had a pan gasket leak

Also before you put pan back on use a hammer with pan on flat surface to make sure all the bolt holes are not dimpled in up towards engine. You want the pan rails flat

 

Got it thanks.

I have the pan gasket you mention. Will be cleaning and checking pan very closely.

Acetone or brake cleaner I have used in the past.

Fred's knowledge is well known on this board, as you can see with my join date I have seen a lot of help from him both by simply lurking and directly in posts.

Cheers