I wish I still had that. I put on the LTCC(original one) back in 2003. The LTCC setup has you ditch the stock coil and ICM so I don't even have that.

 

The Opti is still used for signaling, yes.
I don't know what it is just yet. I just know what it isn't. I'm leaving work now to go get a timing light, index the Harmonic Balancer and see where the spark is going per cylinder. Stay tuned for updates. Lol

 

Also check your valve adjustment..... the rockers might be too tight or you may have bent pushrods.

-B

 

That was one of the early things I checked on. They were all spot on. Thanks though..

 

It was already hit on but the opti is still what determines when and where the spark goes. The Ltcc uses the signal from there to produce the spark, if it is not getting the signal on those two then no spark.

 

Looks like I may have isolated it. TurboBobs LTCC has a couple of LED's inside the housing for the processor. I'd PM'd Bob last night asking if he had any idea if the LTCC could play a role in this. He asked me to pull off the cover of the box and look at the LED's.
Upon "KEY ON", they go thru a bulb test and flash once. Then, when you crank, the green LEN *should* illuminate and stay on. Mine does. The red LED is for diagnostics. Here's what the .pdf file just told me....

Red LED flashes once = Cylinder Decode sequence error.

Red LED flashes twice = Wrong number of Hi Res Pulses counted between Lo-Res Rising edges.

Red LED flashes Three times = Wrong number of Hi Res Pulses counted during a High Lo-Res pulse or a Low Lo-Res Pulse.

Red LED flashes four times = EST (Electronic Spark Control) signal from PCM = missed pulse. Check connection to white wire.

Mine is flashing 3 times.

I've sent a PM to TurboBob to see if this means its wiring or time for a new OPTI.

 

I think you need a new opti but Bob will tell you for sure.

 

Well.... over nighted the Opti and a new Opti Pigtail and it was here to great me when I came home from work. Tested them before installing it by just hooking up the harness to the new one, turned on the key, spun the opti. The red blinking light on the LTCC was gone and I could hear the spark plugs sparking. Cool ... So I installed it. Then swapped the injectors back to the mototrons. Reflashed the PCM with Bryans tune and fired it up.
IT RUNS THE SAME G*D DAMNED WAY AS IT HAD!!!! Running on 6 cylinders at the most.
UNbelievable! This is so sad it's funny.
I tried relashing it with the timing advanced 2 degrees across the board since it starts so weakly. Doesn't matter.
Ill get a timing light tomorrow and see it that reveals anything.
The scanner says it's got 32 degrees at 850 rpm now. It did say 30 before I added the extra timing.

 

So you have fuel in those cylinders and you have spark as well, but it doesn't fire off the cylinder? What's the temp for those header tubes?

 

Here's a good idea - get an infrared thermometer on those tubes and see if they are cool. I also suspect ignition. It's unlikely its a cam thing, and doubt it's fuel related.

 

Not sure if you've checked this, but are you sure the injectors you've replaced on the two problem cylinders are actuating?

 

Everything in the ignition(Opti(New), coils, pigtails(New), plug wires(New), plugs(2 sets)) has been replaced.

The fuel injectors have been swapped with another set.

Valve lash verifiend(it was fine before)

Compression test verified (125 psi on each cylinder)

There are no headers. This is a turbo manifold log style.

Spark verified on each plug for it's wire and it's coil(I'm using the LTCC/LS1 coil setup)

Plugs are wet with fuel/fouling after 4 minutes of running. If this keeps up, it'll wash the rings out.

 

Doesn't the opti send signal to the pcm first and then to your ignition source? I could sware that it does and if that is the case then your pcm might be the blame...

 

I'll have to check that. Thanks

 

Found my cam specs. Going to pick up the cam degree kit plus the nut you put on the crank to turn it over. I have to wait till about noon today to meet the guy (Fbody Buddy of course! The best guys/girls on the planet!) to pick up his kit, accessories. I did a little more research (prompted by fellow LS1Tech'r Chuck Norton. Thanks Chuck!) and found that not only did my engine builder not adv/retard the cam 2 degrees as he'd stated, the timing set (CLO-9-3145) doesn't even have a provision for just 2 degrees. It has 3 keyways. 4 degrees Advanced, "Standard/Dot-to-Dot" and 4 degrees Retarded. (For those in Rio Linda, that means you can't *just* add/subtract 2 degrees with this timing set). Something stinks here (and it's not just that shirt I've been wearing while under the car) Using the ICL (Intake CenterLine method) the cam should show a 112 ICL if it's degreed properly.