Why does this product say "Requires 1V power steering pulley and will not work with A/C on v-belt applications." and this one not?

 

IMO pulleys are a waste of money. what will you gain? a very small amount from the PS pump, thats IT. the A/C (when its off) requires only enough energy to turn the pulley. your water pump is driven by the camshaft. and the new alternator pulley will keep the alternator spinning at the factory spec. speed.

pulleys are a gimmick, please dont waste your money on those.

now to your question.. i dont know. those dont say they are LT1 specific. i think youll run into fewer problems if you use a set designed for the LT1. (edit: ok so searching for a '96 LT1 those pulleys do come up... my suggestion is to call summit and ask)

ps. where do you live? michigan city or something? im from elkhart. peace!

 

not sure...


but the first one listed is the same part number for the March pulley sold by the vendors...so i'm assuming it fits.

i ran it on my LT1

 

I had the first kit and it worked fine. We don't even have any V-belts. Doesn't make any sense. Call one of their service techs and see if they can explain (most likely can't).

 

If you're set on getting an U/D pulley, don't get one that sandwiches between the stock damper/pulley and the hub. Get the ASP integrated pulley/damper that completely replaces the stock damper/pulley. At least that way you're not adding extra weight to the front of the crank.

 

Not to hijack, but I have been wondering the same thing for my recent overhaul...my engine is out of the car right now, and I recently pressed the hub back on...I have an underdrive pulley and then also a relatively heavy cast iron balancer which bolts to the front it...hence the belt is sandwiched as said earlier.

Would it be better to just run the setup WITHOUT the balancer? ie - only the underdrive pulley? If so - for what reasons? Or would it be better to invest in one of those pricey dampeners?

 

Pricey Dampners.

Do not take off the stock dampener unless you are replacing it with a better one. Everyone on here will tell you to leave it for the sake of your engines life.

 

don't understand why it would be an issue. that was the first thing i ever did to my engine almost 10 years ago and it's still on there... at least for now.

 

Not sure what you're asking here.... are you saying you don't know why its better not to add rotating mass to the front of the crank? If that's your question, increased mass decreases the HP savings, because mass absorbs power when the crank accelerates. Using a sandwich pulley won't hurt anything, but its not going to show the same gains (limited as they are) as an integrated damper/pulley.

 

By the way you addressed this originally I was under the impression you were stating adding weight to the front of the crank could be mechanically harmful.
So the integrated damper/pulley weighs less?

 

Tha ASP is smaller in diameter than the stocker, so its got to weigh less than the stock plus a sandwich pulley. I had the ASP on my car a few weeks after I bought the car new new in 94. I could not measure any improvement, using a Vericom accelerometer (like a G-Tech, but it works a bit better). All it ever did was cause my voltmeter to go into the red at idle with the AC and lights, etc. on.

Now I run the ATI SuperDamper, and I think it might be a shade smaller in diameter (= U/D) than the stocker, and I still have the ASP U/D alternator pulley, but I figure that should just help reduce the stress on the alternator with a 7,200rpm rev limiter. But the car has minimum elctrical loads, with no A/C, no audio system, etc. Just two fuel pumps and the second one only runs when the nitrous system is armed.