Ugh, Fuel Pump Question...
Ugh, Fuel Pump Question...
I just put the new motor in and i have everything hooked up except the C105 http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm Found here on shoeboxes site. Its the one next to the PCM wireing. I went to crank the motor finally and noticed the fuel pump didnt even turn on. I checked all my wireing again and its fine. Then i took out the fuel pump relay and tryed to jump it, KOEO. Nothing. So my question is did i miss something or is the fuel pump bad? Whats all in the wireing with the fuel pump? Also if i haveto change the fuel pump i saw a guy cut out the hatch area and just pulled the fuel pump out instead of dropping the gas tank. Opnions on that? Thanks!
Re: Ugh, Fuel Pump Question...
Originally Posted by SSmoked
I just put the new motor in and i have everything hooked up except the C105 http://shbox.com/1/harness.htm Found here on shoeboxes site. Its the one next to the PCM wireing. I went to crank the motor finally and noticed the fuel pump didnt even turn on. I checked all my wireing again and its fine. Then i took out the fuel pump relay and tryed to jump it, KOEO. Nothing. So my question is did i miss something or is the fuel pump bad? Whats all in the wireing with the fuel pump? Also if i haveto change the fuel pump i saw a guy cut out the hatch area and just pulled the fuel pump out instead of dropping the gas tank. Opnions on that? Thanks! 

As far as cutting the pump out of the top.. BEST way to get a f-body fuel pump out EVER! Contrary to popular belief the best way I found to cut a hole is to use tin snips instead of a power tool. Much less messy and there is no risk of cutting into the tank. It just makes the job so much easier. And to seal I just used a high aircraft quality grade aluminum sheet with self tappint screws and a beed of sealant all the way around.
Re: Ugh, Fuel Pump Question...
Also forgot to mention i did a T-56 swap aswell. So i dont know if any wireing on the automatic shifter is wrong. I went off this:
To wire the reverse lights and hatch release, you have to work with the plug that goes into the side of the auto shifter assembly (inside the car, under the console). You cut the 6 wires off the harness and wire the large yellow and brown wires together so your starter will work (these are part of the ground circuit for the starter... this is what keeps you from starting an auto car in gears other than park and neutral, and in M6 cars, it's wired to a sensor on the clutch pedal so the starter won't work unless the pedal is depressed). The orange w/black stripe and black w/white stripe need to be connected to work your hatch release. And the last two wires (one green, and the other i can't remember right now) need to be connected to the reverse light plug in the trans. Just get some speaker wire and run it from these wires through the hole you cut for the M6 shifter and connect them to the reverse light plug. That's about all the wiring you need to do. The CAGS and reverse lock out don't need to be connected... it's hard enough to engage reverse in these cars and you'd have to be REALLY uncorordinated to push the shifter into the reverse gate when going from 4th to 5th gear. Feel free do wire it in, however.
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dbusch22
Forced Induction
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



Would a fuel pump just die like that? It sat for a month only. I will take anything at this point.
