i've been having this problem for a couple months now, and can't figure out what's going on. I'll go to start it, and it'll turn over for a couple seconds, then stop, then start again and the motor will fire. This is using a ton of power from the battery, because usually when this happens it resets the clock/stations on my cd player. I have a new battery and a new starter (neither changed the problem at all). What would you reccomend i look into? Could this be something in my ignition system (it's turning over enough to build pressure but not firing fast enough?) I honest have no idea, hoping someone here has had a similar problem. thanks.

 

Sounds like you either have something making the engine drag or you have a bad connection somewhere causing you to drop too much current. Have you checked ALL the grounds and positive connections? Can you rotate it over by hand?

 

There is a check valve in the fuel pump that lets gas pump through one way to the engine when the engine is running, but when you shut the engine off, this valve keeps gas from going back into the gas tank so there is always fuel pressure in the lines so the engine will start fast. When the fuel pump gets a lot of miles on it, this valve goes bad but the fuel pump is still working fine. I see this all the time at my shop. So you have to crank it over some, then it will start when you get fuel pressure again.. To test this, turn the key to run (but dont start engine) until you hear the 2 second fuel pump prime shut off, do this about 3-4 times to prime the fuel lines again, before you try to start the engine, then start it- if it starts ok then that is your problem!

kingslam

 

i'll definitely have to try this because my fuel pump has been making wierd noises lately and I was thinking of replacing it anyway, thanks for the advice.


I'm not sure about rotating it by hand... i'm going to replace my header gaskets and will have the plugs out, so i'll do it then and see if there's any drag on it. what grounds should i check? there are a couple under the hood and one under the kick panel that i know of... where are the major ones at?

 

The way I read what you asked initially was you have a cranking issue. As in the starter will crank and stop then crank again.

The very first thing to check if that is the case is the battery up to the task. You can do that by checking across the battery with a voltmeter while you crank it to be sure the voltage does not go below 11 volts. Or you can take the battery to have it load tested. If it reads low it may just need to be charged. A defective starter drawing too much current can make this voltage appear too low also.

The next thing you want to check is the grounds and the positive connections from the battery to the engine. The positive connections are at the battery, the junction on the passenger fender, at the starter and at the alternator. Don't assume since they don't wiggle loose that they are good. Actually remove them and clean the terminals and the mounting points. At the battery is the most often corroded point also.

The grounds are again at the battery, another junction on the passenger fender, from the engine to the frame on the driver side, at the radiator and above the starter.

The next thing to check is the alternator putting out enough current to charge the battery properly. You do this with the engine running by checking the voltage across the battery. It should now measure about 14 volts. When the engine is off the battery will read about 12.6 volts FYI.

The last item is the starter itself. When starters get old, many will develope internal shorts in the windings causing them to require huge amounts of current to crank over. Since most of us neither have the equipment to measure this current let alone know what it should measure. We can do a couple of things. We can take it to have it measured for current draw. I do suggest you have it confirmed first before buying another one this way.

To help you determine if that is your problem do the following: First you must have done the above checks. Now if your problem persists, try jumping from another vehicle that is running. If it cranks over more consistantly now, that's an indication the starter needs more current. If that is the case, the result may be noticed when you check the voltage across the battery when it is cranking. Remember too much current requirement could also be from poor wiring so that is why I said make sure the test and checks above were done first. I have also seen bad batterys that suck every bit of power from the jumper vehicle and it still doesn't crank properly so that is why again you should do the checks above before you suspect the starter.

If you do suspect the starter than you remove it and carry it to a place to have it tested FIRST before buying a new one. DON'T buy one from a cheap auto parts store. OEM or Hi-po. A lifetime warranty for junk parts means nothing.

 

Actually i'm almost positive it's the fuel pump, because when i prime it 3 or 4 times like kingslam said to it starts fine. When I try to start it without priming it i think it just builds up compression until it can't turn over any more and it won't fire because it has no fuel