finally!

what are you guys using and what power are they good to?

i was thinkin about some 38-42 pound ones...will 35 be good enough for a 550hp 7000rpm stroker (make sure i only buy these once...)

also what brand 58 mm or mono blades are yall using? i think id prefer mono so my n20 can distribute better...

are yall using a aftermarket fpr? i hear alot of people have problems with these

cage? i need a 6 point...probably over the back seat i dont want to have to cut interrior panels, lower side bars (car is still driven) fit around stock seats, and be very very hidden, close to the sides and roof
(whats the typical weight differance between the mild steel and chromoly?

maybe some shocks and springs (willing to go a little radical here not too much though)

think i can decide on anything else
any opinions or experiences apprietiated

 

i was thinkin about some 38-42 pound ones...will 35 be good enough for a 550hp 7000rpm stroker (make sure i only buy these once...)

A 38#/Hr injector is the bare minimum with a 550 flywheelHP application, assuming that is all "normally aspirated" power, and does not involve a power adder.
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also what brand 58 mm or mono blades are yall using? i think id prefer mono so my n20 can distribute better...

I'm running a Holley 58mm on an engine that makes 500 flywheel NA, and sprays a 300-dry shot through the TB. No problems with N2O distribution.
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are yall using a aftermarket fpr? i hear alot of people have problems with these

If you want to run a higher fuel pressure to reduce injector duty cycle, or minimize the effects of fuel pressure variations on the engine, anAFPR makes sense. If you are buying it to "tune", you don't need one, because that's not the way to tune. I run a Weldon AFPR, and run my fuel system at 58psi to gve me 78#/Hr on my Bosch injectors.
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cage? i need a 6 point...probably over the back seat i dont want to have to cut interrior panels, lower side bars (car is still driven) fit around stock seats, and be very very hidden, close to the sides and roof
(whats the typical weight differance between the mild steel and chromoly?

NHRA requires a 5-point roll bar (2 points for the main hoop, two points for the braces to the rear, and one point for the front brace, drivers side only) on 'verts running under 13.5 and coupes running under 11.5... below 10.0 or over 135mph you need a full NHRA inspected and certified cage

Chrome moly will reduce weight by about 1/3 compared to mild steel.
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maybe some shocks and springs (willing to go a little radical here not too much though)

For straight line traction (QA1/HAL shocks with stock or "drag" springs) or for handling the "twisties" (Bilsteins and some lowering springs)
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thanks injuneer...

my n20 kit wil be wet...so 42 pound injectors? what brand and where do yall get them from?

300 dry shot would be kool but ive got a wet kit and it would prolly ease my mind that that n20 and fuel can go wherever it wants and no hit inbetween the blades on the tb...and one nozzels could spray both side of the motor even if its close to the tb, what brand monoblades are out there?

interested in the 6 point, what brand and place yall getting these from? and im guessing the mild steel is about 60 pounds and the chromoly is about 40? and ive always wondered these go through the hatch to be installed? or they come in pieces and you have to weld them?

 

The Wolfe bars and cages are fairly popular for the 4th Gens:

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/Search...?CategoryID=20

I have a custom built 6-point chrome moly bar, with X-bracing on the rear braces, and integrated SFC's. I figure it would have weighed 90# in mild steel, but is closer to 60-65# using the chrome moly. Just to clarify, the weight savings is closer to 30%.

 

sweet they are local...saves about 100 bux...so is there any real differance between the through the plastic for the rear bars over the ones that mount above the gas tank? i guess through the plastic gives a lil more rigidity?
what about those injectors?
nobody besides injuneer?
thanks