came back with 2.84. shoebox site said it should say 5 volts.
what does that indicate? this was with the car in the "on" position, but not running.

recently i noticed that the sensor on the head was cracked almost all the way through. so i went to checkers and bought one for it, but it is a 2 wire sensor. PART# ts25381 made by niehoff. i am gonna guess that this is the one for the water pump?

 

The PCM supplies 5V to the sensor. If you pull the wire off the sensor, and measure voltage from the wire to the block, that's when you see 5V. When you reconnect the wire, the voltage will drop, depending on the resistance of the temp sensor..... high resistance = low temperature, low resitance = high temperature. Simply pull the wire off the sensor, and measure the resistance from the sensor pin to the block. Then compare the reading to the table showing Coolant temp vs. sensor resistance in this:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

 

thanks alot, went out and did it again and came back with 5 volts.
reason i am goin this direction is because of a code PO100 that i had a thread started but it didnt get anywrhere. so anyway i went back and searched for other threads and some of them came back with the colnat temp sensor was bad, well i don think that is the case.
still getting the code even though i have done everything i can that people have told me. i am almost to the point of not driving the car anymore, but i have to. feels like it is goin to stall at idle in traffic, which has done to me twice now.
if u have any input, please suggest it.
thanks again
p.s. thanks for the link, adding that to favorites

 

P0100 shouldn't have anything to do with the coolant sensor. Check for 12v on the pink wire to the MAF.

 

Hard to see what logic would lead you to jump from the MAF sensor to the CLT sensor in pursuit of P0100. You P0100 thread indicated you were getting frequency readings jumping from 5.1kHz (~48gps) to 9.5kHz (~275gps) at idle, and another time jumping around from 3.5kHz (~30gps) to 7.8kHz (~160gps) at idle. None of those numbers make any sense at all. Typical idle airflow should be around 10gps or less (less than 3.0kHz). If you're reading the frequency meter correctly, your MAF to totally screwed up.

 

well i hope i had it on the right one. in this link i think that it is in the same spot i had mine. but i had it on the 200, right above where u would check for 12 volts
http://www.fm-transmitter.com/img/ki...multimeter.jpg

and the only reason i started looking into the CTS is that i seen on other peoples threads that it had been brought up and i knew the one in my head on the passenger side was cracked. and thought that was the one that sent the info to the PCM
thanks for replying.
do u think a new MAF is in the near future?

 

come ot find out my multimeter did not Khz. borrowed one from a friend and got some correct numbers. at idle it was at 2.4XX, then i gave it some throttle (guessing up to @2400) and it went up to 3.2XX.
if i am getting power to the MAF and the ground is good ( which both have checked out fine) and the yellow wire at idle is 2.4 khz. what does that indicate?
i put a new MAF in the car when i was checking it, pulled the - terminal off the battery, pulled the pcm fuse. the codes was reset and when i went to start the car it took a few times to start, i had ot give it some gas to actually get it started. but once it started within 2 seconds the SES light had apppeared.
i took the PCV valve out and it shook around quite a bit, so i think that it is good, the elbow is fine. where do i go from here?
thanks again