hello guys . my son purchased a 95z28 5.7 and whole a lot of trouble.....
car developed long cranks finally just die it wouldn't do anything . we replaced the fuel pump thinking it may be that. upon further looking and removing things found out the optispark harness to PCm was all broken disconnected so I decided to do a replacement and t-chain too , with new sparkplugs cable so on . yesterday I drained the engine's oil lots of oil came out and ALSO fuel oil contaminated with fuel "never seen that before " any ways removed harmonic balancer and crank hub now we are having a very hard time turning the CRANKSHAFT it don't do a full turn it comes to a stop and yes the bolt its tighten down right with spacer .
is the engine done . cause of the fuel contamination I m wondering any ideas any body thanks

 

long cranking time could have been the fuel pressure regulator too. That would explain excess fuel in the oil.

If it ran when you parked it, I would have to verify the timing marks. Did you do the rotation attempt to confirm chain/gear marks, or did you do that later after?

Slow steady manual cranking should get it to turn if the timing is correct. I use a short cheater pipe, or breaker bar. Try removing a few spark plugs.

Fuel could make the oil super thin and damage bearings, but you say it's completely locked up? I might check the new opti too, and make sure it's correct without binding. There is only one notch for that cam pin.

 

I drove it to auto zone than it die. opti spark has been removed , harmonic balancer ,t-chain cover ,crank hub and all spark plugs except the one underneath the alternator which I m removing tomorrow
now the marks do match between chain/gear. now when go turn crank shaft with the socket it does turn kind of hard but it does . would say half rotation than it comes to a very hard point it wont turn pass that point. oh yea I haven't installed anything new yet !

 

That hard point is probably cylinder number 2 with the spark plug. She should turn, because it was running.

 

think you are Right! that's the only one I haven't removed I will today .
been searching on line . I found an interesting article from crankshaft coalition freeing a stuck engine . talks about using penetrating oil into the sparkplugs holes leaving it there for couple of hours that will free up any stuck engine parts in there .I m do that to day .let u know how that works out . thanks a lot John95z28

 

removed cylinder 2 plug and lubricated all spark plugs holes with wd-40 no luck . crank doesn't turn maybe it turns about 3 " than it binds on something it actually feels worst now a guy I know told that cause fuel kept pouring into the engine it must have bend the valves . which I question if the motor didn't turn over how could've bend them ?????

 

Would bend a connecting rod, not the valves., Hydrolock.

 

Wow, it didn't sound that serious by the way you described it at first.

Double check the timing chain part number to make sure it matches the motor.

I suppose the next step is to remove the rocker arms and extract the pushrods in order. That way you can confirm or eliminate the upper valve train.

 

great news!!! I was able to turn the crank . we had left the gear into 1st that's why it wouldn't turn . soon as I shift it to neutral started turning all the wd-40 came out of the button . now we had a hard the replacing the t-chain . I have never done Camaro 5.7 before and the dude is helping me suppose to be a mechanic couldn't figure it out how to get top sprocket into the water pump gear . we finally did . thanks again John95z28

 

oops, That was good for a laugh.

 

lol I was gonna say something about the gear, but I figured that to obvious.

Well at least it's good now. Make sure that water pump seal is installed correctly then. They can be tricky even for some mechanics that know the specific ways to do it. And BTW you do put a dab of oil on the lips of the seal, even though the instructions appear to imply that the seals are installed dry. They are installed dry into the timing cover, but the lip/shaft is to be lubricated via the instructions.

Honestly I have a feeling the water pump seal may not be correct.
Did you use the special tool, or did you use the water pump shaft to slide it on? This is important, because if you didn't use either, then it is wrong and will leak oil soon.

 

are you referring to the round seal attached on the t-chain cover , the one on the t-chain cover that goes over the water pump drive shaft. I didn't think about those . !! I think I will I l get them from auto zone
and another question :
the mechanic that I have helping me had to turn the crankshaft sprocket to get the new t-chain on . he had a hard time getting the chain and lining up the marks right the top didn't move much but button did. however he moved it back and forth till both marks were on right . last I checked Sunday afternoon . both marks looked pretty good . still I m wondering if marks are a hair off. could it mess up the engine ?

 

Yes, that one is a little different. Recommend the whole timing cover seal kit for about 11 bucks. That water pump shaft seal is installed after the timing cover is bolted on. The others can be installed before or after. There are several video on youtube about the seal install, you should both take a look to make sure you get it right. You don't need the tool. Just clean up the water pump shaft with fine grit sandpaper and use that.
Step 1. lubricate the clean water pump shaft.
Step 2. Slide seal onto shaft, and make sure both lips point outwards towards the ends of the shaft. If either points inwards, it will be prone to leak.
Step 3. position shaft over spline(block), until it bottoms out on spline.
Step 4. Now slide seal the rest of the way down the shaft. The inner lip should now be over the spline.
Step 5. With large socket you can use a hammer carefully making sure the seal seats evenly on all sides.
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The marks can't be off a hair really, the length off would be full link over to one side or the other. However, turn the crank clockwise until the dot on the top cam gear is at six oclock. The dot on the crank should pass directly by that position at 12 oclock. Sounds like he got it right.

 

I just looked at the timing marks again , they looked pretty good . 6 /12 . I also bought the gasket and seal kit . I m going to look for the videos later on make sure I do it right. think my mechanic may not be able to comeback for a few days . so I m going to work on it by my self . I 've done them on audi a6 and dodge ram before .vehicle came out good with no trouble
think this one is a lot more work though..
do you think I should turn the crank a few rotations - make sure everything ends up at the marks !!