just wondering what parts the 383 and 396 guys are running for

oil pan (thinkin canton)
oil pump (thinkin stock replacement)
cam (thinkin xfi 468)
tranny (debating if i should stay 4l60e and who to get a built one from)

im building a 396 and just want to make sure that everything will be durable and correct for the build... i heard from a friend that i should run a stock replacement oil pump because the high output oil pumps rob hp and strain the motor but im not to sure bout that....

kay so lemme know what your recommendations are

thanks guys

 

Canton pan and "blueprinted" stock pump in mine.

Rich

 

Can we assume you have an LT1?

 

As injuneer said, we need some more info on your combo. Also a rough idea of what you plan to do with the car would be helpful.

Many people have turned to a stock replacement. There has been a switch in casting however for the oil pumps and the heavy duty casting are advised for hard use.

 

just remember 1 thing about the canton. you WILL have to clearance the scraper. also the drain plug likes to leak, you can pick your fix on that issue.

the oil pump i am running is the upgraded melling pump with the shaft supplied with it (its a harded or chromoly shaft, i can't remember which).

your cam choice will depend on purpose of build and head flow.

tranny wise , there is a sponser that rebuilds them. he posts regually and there doesn't seem to be even 1 complaint about his quality of work.
good luck with your build. when things don't go like you expect them to, keep your head up. it will all pay off in the end.

 

Here goes

Yes its gonna be a 396 lt1 its currently gettin built and im trying to be patient i have ported trickflows here that are supposed to flow very effiently to say the least pretty much i want this car to be a weekend car with decent manners nothing too conservative after all its a 396 but nothing that will make me wanna shoot myself at a redlight ... but the motors all blueprinted and should be gettin in final build this week, i know the 10bolt wont stand the beating so im lookin at a 12 bolt and a new tranny i have a pretty big shopping list still, but the cars been off the road for a year so im in no rush to spare a few extra pennys in doing things right and making sure everything is correct, pretty much before she hits the road everythings gettin updated motor tranny rearend suspension so ill have practically a new car

just wanted to know if anyone had recommendations or some tips bout those parts just because i dont want to see all this money go down the tube, i know alot of ppl are affraid of 396s because of all the clearancing and tollerances and well thin walls so i wanna make sure mine is done right and i could care less how long it takes as long as it pays off just like jason said

but pretty much every suspension parts comin off trannys gettin changed to sumptin to handle 600hp, rears gettin changed to a 12bolt and 4.10s, prob goin with qa1s, phb,lcas,ta,sfcs,kmember, xfi 468, 42 lb injectors, lt4 timing chain and the oversized sprocket, debating about the ltcc or deltec after hearing the stories bout the msd distributor, canton pan, pro mags, chromemoly pushrods, new lifters, trickflows, hooker headers, csr ew, and lots of arp bolts

but im still debating about the oil pump my builder said the high volume pumps will rob hp in the midrange and top end and sometimes wont flow as good as the stock replacements and he had a few problems where they cost the motor alot of damage so he warned me before handbout that but i think thats enough writing for now please let me know any suggestions or additions i should think about

 

Don't waste your time on 4.11's. With a high hp 396 you'll need 3.73's anyway... might as well save some shifting/effort/cash/mpg...

Clearancing the "scraper" consists of using a BFH. Why they even bother to put that piece of crap in there is beyond me... totally pointless when you see how ineffective it is. The "scraper" needs to be a trim-to-fit design, not this small ledge they put on it.


As for the rest of the build, well... it depends on a ALOT.

I used a Melling 10552 (http://data.melling.com/Select/small_block_chevy.php) which was a close to standard flow while ensuring a large neck and steel gears. Only catch? The pump is longer than stock, and using the Canton pick-up for my Canton pan casued it to bottom out on the pan... it wouldn't even let the pan go all the way on. Only solution? find a different pick-up (Melling makes a bolt-on one that would be trick).

My fix? cut the pickup inlet box off the tubing, cut the bolt-on tang off the inlet box, reposition, tack-weld in place, re-measure clearance with silly-putty, then finish the weld (and weld it to the pump). Not quick, but fairly easy if you have a good MIG guy on hand and a grinder station / hack saw.

The major issue is getting the block work done right (i.e. getting the TOP of the block machined down when the head surfaces are 0-decked), making sure the rings are filed like crap (poor filing will score your cylinders and cost hp), packaged without weather-proofing (rust during shipping is possible if it isn't oiled and SEALED on gasket surfaces), and hard blocked COMPLETELY WRONG (I just spent 3 hours today fixing my $50 "hardblock option" that had a- No hole for the knock sensor to work properly, b- absolutely NO filling on the INBOARD side of the water jackets because c- the block was NOT filled and set one bank at a time like it needs to be, but both at once... although I'm covered if my oil pan rails ever need extra support ).

Do yourself a favor... go with a LOCAL shop who you can talk to before, during, and after the work is done and is willing to stand by their work.

Other than that, expect to have "issues" pop up whenever you go with performance parts... there's always tolerances and other hick-ups that appear when you stray from stock parts... don't belive it "bolts right in", however it's not impossible... just have a shop assemble it for you, or have a buddy that's done it before... this isn't a first-timer solo-effort.

 

Oh yeah, you'll need to watch your pushrod length do wierd things. My block was 0-decked and the heads I used were milled down a bit as well... this led to 7.000" pushrods!

Smithbrothers hooked me up with some 3/8" rods with 0.120" thick walls... damn nice for any price, and a screamin deal if you get Racer Net prices.

 

so far they were not going to zero deck the block to keep the cr low and save some driveablity with the 62 cc trickflows itll be around 11-1 which is plenty safe, im debating about asking him to deck it just to get sum more hp outta it and also to toss on a canton pan and replacement oil pump for me and check all the clearances before he ships it out to me just to be safe ... im just hoping it all goes smoothly cause i wont have this block in the car for a few months at this rate so any problems i incur will not show up till later down the line ....godforbid

 

On my 396 I'm running the Stock Oil Pan, and Stock Oil Pump w/stock pick-up.

Not sure how high you plan on revving yours, or how loose/tight your bearing clearances are...but stock volume with a high pressure spring works perfectly for my application. The stock pan took a decent amount of "massaging" with a large hammer for the 3.875in stroke, but I'm happy with the results. Just because certain things are "stock" doesn't mean they need to be replaced.

Find a good machinist, and listen to what they have to say.

As far as the tranny goes; I've gone through 4 4L60E's. The most recent of which was a very nice unit (race-prepped by a company that doesn't exist anymore). It lasted 20,000 miles under very harsh driving/race conditions. That is an interval I'm comfortable with. If you're going 4L60E route, although I haven't done business with them "yet"...I've heard nothing but good things about the supporting vendor CPT on this board.

And to reiterate what Steve in Seattle said, I would also not recommend 4.11's. I mean it depends on your application, but I sure as hell will be replacing mine here shortly.

 

CR is no reason to 0-deck a block, period.

blocks are milled to adjust QUENCH... the CR ratio is adjusted with piston reliefs and head porting. Sounds like you might want to talk with your builder again... something isn't right with that story.