LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Street Twin setup??

Old Apr 9, 2003 | 08:54 AM
  #1  
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Street Twin setup??

I just installed a new McLeod Street Twin in my 93 TA. I'm having a few problems with it and need some expert advice. I have bleed the system and made sure that there is no air in the hydraulics. Here is my problem, I installed the clutch and steel flywheel exactly how it was shipped to me. I made sure I torqued all of the bolts to spec. I also installed the adjustable master. Now my clutch doesn't feel right. The pedal engages the clutch with the pedal almost to the floor, and the transmission makes a whinning noise when I put into either 1st or second. It's almost like the clutch is only 50% operational. It does feel strong when I'm on it, but it's a little hard to get into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. How should the pedal feel? What is the proper way to adjust the master cylinder? Any other thoughts or other ideas are greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Bruce
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 10:10 AM
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TTT
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 11:49 AM
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Anyone have any ideas?


Bruce
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 11:50 AM
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I used the Street Twin, but with the "sleeved" stock slave cylinder/stock master. Engagement was at least an inch off the floor, shifting was "normal"... .sounds like yours isn't releasing all the way. Do they still require that you take something like 0.05" off the clutch fork ball? I never did that, but some people found they had to do it to get proper engagement.
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 12:05 PM
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I didn't see anything about modding the clutch fork ball. I will do some research on this.




Thanks,

Bruce
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 01:21 PM
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Originally posted by aggiez28
mine said you had to machine somthign i forget what it was though


brook
How old is your clutch? Did it come with the adjustable master? I think this was the fix for the older set-ups that didn't come with the adjustable master.


Bruce
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 01:59 PM
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Only the older version with the sleeved slave cylinder needed the clutch fork pivot machined.

BigBird, since you have the adjustable master cylinder, you need to adjust it out some. Best way I've found is to adjust it so it's approximately the same height as the brake pedal, then make small adjustments from there until you find an adjustment you like. If you adjust it too far out, you will get a very unpleasant metallic rapping noise (I've done this myself).
Old Apr 9, 2003 | 05:09 PM
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It's true, as Curt said, if you have the adj. master cylinder, you don't need to machine the pivot T.

You may need to bleed it more. Air in the lines can be a real pain. But, also do try adjusting the pedal out further.
Old Apr 10, 2003 | 08:01 AM
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Thank you. I adjusted it out a little more last night which left it about 1/2 inch below the brake pedal. I drove it an exhaust shop this morning and it feels like it's a lot better, but reverse is still a pain to get into. I guess I have to mess with it a little more to get it right.

BTW, I have already heard that horrible noise too!!!!

Bruce
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