Street twin OK for daily driving?
Street twin OK for daily driving?
Ok so heres the deal. I recently swaped to a M6 when my a4 died. Had a pretty much free M6 setup so i figured why not?
Swap went fine. Very easy straight foward swap by the way.
Bought a SLP clutch for it and had my stock flywheel resurfaced. Put in new pilot bushing. Car vibrated like hell in upper RPM's. Pulled Trans again. Clutch was only engaging about 1-2 inch's of the pressure plate and the flywheel. Had a nice blue burnt ring around the hub of the flywheel and the pressure plate.
Called SLP they said no warranty your flywheel was machined wrong. Called Spec they said since my flywheel was just turned that it was probalby the pressure plate that was bad.
So i may or may not need both a new flywheel and new pressure plate. Spec stage III and aluminum flywheel from spec $848.00 plus new hydaulics just to be sure thats not the problem $120.00. $968 for a clutch set up basically.
Researched about spec. Specs seem to be hit or miss. Lots of people recomended them Lots of people said they were junk.
I want a clutch set up that is not going to be any problems. I am already sick of dicking around with this.
This is for a Mostly stock LT1 (mods in sig) I do plan heads though and ultimately will be at around 400 RWHP plus a 150 shot. I DON'T do much drag racing though. This is predominately a street car. I just want a dependable cltuch i am not going to have to worry about breaking. The Street Twin seems to be the best. It is only a little more and saves me from having to buy new hydraulics. When i put my tranny back in this time i don't want to have to worry about taking it back out in 2 days.
How's the driveability of the street twin? I searched but didn't really find too much on it. Does it seem like the right clutch for me?
Thanks
Shawn
Swap went fine. Very easy straight foward swap by the way.
Bought a SLP clutch for it and had my stock flywheel resurfaced. Put in new pilot bushing. Car vibrated like hell in upper RPM's. Pulled Trans again. Clutch was only engaging about 1-2 inch's of the pressure plate and the flywheel. Had a nice blue burnt ring around the hub of the flywheel and the pressure plate.
Called SLP they said no warranty your flywheel was machined wrong. Called Spec they said since my flywheel was just turned that it was probalby the pressure plate that was bad.
So i may or may not need both a new flywheel and new pressure plate. Spec stage III and aluminum flywheel from spec $848.00 plus new hydaulics just to be sure thats not the problem $120.00. $968 for a clutch set up basically.
Researched about spec. Specs seem to be hit or miss. Lots of people recomended them Lots of people said they were junk.
I want a clutch set up that is not going to be any problems. I am already sick of dicking around with this.
This is for a Mostly stock LT1 (mods in sig) I do plan heads though and ultimately will be at around 400 RWHP plus a 150 shot. I DON'T do much drag racing though. This is predominately a street car. I just want a dependable cltuch i am not going to have to worry about breaking. The Street Twin seems to be the best. It is only a little more and saves me from having to buy new hydraulics. When i put my tranny back in this time i don't want to have to worry about taking it back out in 2 days.
How's the driveability of the street twin? I searched but didn't really find too much on it. Does it seem like the right clutch for me?
Thanks
Shawn
I think it is, the only difference I notice is a bit firmer pedal and it won't slip when fully engaged.
I can still ease into it though, from a stand-still.
There have been several threads about this same clutch setup recently, you should do a search and check them out too.
I can still ease into it though, from a stand-still.There have been several threads about this same clutch setup recently, you should do a search and check them out too.
Also will this thing slow me down? I run 99% of the time on 285/40/17's Maybe occasionally some Nitto drags. But nothing more.
Now when i launch my car i kind of feather the gas and slip the clutch as the revs climb until i am moving fast enought that wheel spin is not a problem.
I have heard that you can't slip the ST at all. It's either engaged or not. In turn this slows you down because you can't slip the clutch any as you launch the car.when you launch the car the clutch grabs without any slipping and just breaks the tires loose. How true is this? I won't have the money for a 12 bolt anytime soon so i am not running anything more than drag radials. I will also be doing 3.73's.
I have also heard the spec III is the same way and that would be my only other option for my power level.
Thanks
Shawn
Now when i launch my car i kind of feather the gas and slip the clutch as the revs climb until i am moving fast enought that wheel spin is not a problem.
I have heard that you can't slip the ST at all. It's either engaged or not. In turn this slows you down because you can't slip the clutch any as you launch the car.when you launch the car the clutch grabs without any slipping and just breaks the tires loose. How true is this? I won't have the money for a 12 bolt anytime soon so i am not running anything more than drag radials. I will also be doing 3.73's.
I have also heard the spec III is the same way and that would be my only other option for my power level.
Thanks
Shawn
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