I was gonna buy a le2 cam for my car wich is similar to a cc306 but with a better torque curve but one of the member her made me realise that it was maybe the wrong one for me.So im very thankfull of the opinion he gave.So now im trying to avoid buying a cam that wuld not be good for me.

So i know that there is a lot of cam thread but there is too much variable between each car and owners needs.

The cam:
I would like to avoid custom cam but could change my mind
I want a street cam with a lot of torque
I dont want to shift higher than 6000/6200 rpm
I want it to lope like hell(like a cc306)

The car/motor:
-96 formula M6 with new HDX clucth
-Stock crate LT4
-Stock untouched 195cc/240cfm heads with 2.00/1.55valve
-Kooks Lt with kooks ORY no cat and magnaflow cat back
-Moroso CAI
-52mm tb with airfoil
-32lbs injectors
-12 bolts with 3.73 gears
-EVERYTHING IS NEW ON THE CAR(i mean really)

Like i ve stated in another thread i ll be using those parts for the install:
8-Gm guide plate
1 set-Comp cam pushrod
1 set-Comp pro mag rocker
1 set-Pac1218
1 set-4705-16 Seats
1 set-614-16 Locks 10*
1 set-795-16 Steel retainers
1 set-Timing cover gasket set
1 set-Intake gasket set
1 set-Arp stud 7/16

I would like clear info on wich cam i want and why so precision is the key.

Thank you

 

I know of several companies that offer custom comp cams at the same price as shelf grinds.
You want a lot of lope and a low shift point that will be the answer. The shelf stuff is usually compromise with the understanding that gearheads are predominately of the "more is better" mentality and will buy too big a cam, so most of the off the shelf stuff is ground on a spread LSA to tame it a little and gets rid of the lope you want.

Granted this is not the exact cam recommendation you wanted but this is info you need to understand to arrive at your goal.

 

Does SDPC do it?

Because right now im ordering all my parts from Matt?

And i was leaning toward the:
cc503:CCA-07-503 --- 224@ .503/ 230@ .510 (1.5RR)--- 112 LSA
or
the voodoo 60121:---221@.515/229@.530(1.5rr)---112lsa

 

the last thing your gonna want to buy a cam for is the way it sounds at idle

with that being said i would recomend getting a custom grind and letting the grinder choise it for you, i have a feeling the guy im talking about will chime in here soon

 

Between the two choices, I'd choose the Voodoo. At least the guy who designed that cam designs cams for a living (has a long list of accomplishments and endorsements from guys who actually have fast cars), as opposed to the self-proclaimed "best cam designer in the world" internet god dangalla is probably referring to.

 

Have you ever driven a cammed car before? The more lope it has, the more cam surge it will have. Just a heads up.

 

yeah i was reffering to the fact that he is nice enough to chime in and help even if your not buying a cam from him

 

Are you talking about Bret?I ve heard that he is hard to reach,is it true?

I ve just sent him an email but he could also chime in

 

Well yeah my buddy got a 237/242, .603"/.609"@ .050 ,its kinda border line for the street but it driveable and it lope like hell

 

"Lope" is a product of valve overlap in ratio to cubic inches. The more the valve events overlap, the more lopey it becomes. Overlap is a product of duration and/or LSA. The higher the duration, or narrower the LSA, (or a combination of both), the higher the overlap.

Unfortunately, higher durations and narrower LSA's tend to be low end torque killers, so it's a catch-22.

 

Best advice you will ever hear:

Go to camshaftinnovations.com and email Jay Allen and get a custom grind.

 

I used to run the GM 846 in my old 355, and it loped pretty nice,
but was really street friendly.

It's 222/230 - .543-.563 on 112

Now I've got an LE2 cam in a 383, and it's got more "attitude"
even though it's got the extra cubes to eat it up.

The 846 would work with the valvetrain you've already got.

 

Off the shelf I like the CC503 with 1.6s...My neighbor runs 12.50s at 113 with that cam/LPE heads full weight, shifting like a grandma and it has a nice lope to it...Also a big fan of the LPE 219/219 .560/.560....has a nice lope, a little less than the 503 but has a bit more lift...I'm a huge fan of smaller duration bigger lifts and these cars (LT1s) respond very well to them (ol' John Lingenfelter was on to something...)Hell, even the LPE 211/219 .533/.560 is a good choice, but doesn't have a lot of lope...

I personally run a small Joe Overton grind in my 383 and its only 226/234 but it eats cars with bigger cams alive all the time...

...and every cam I listed above, including the one in my 383, does its thing by 6300 rpm...

--Alan

 

Oh no looks like my troll is out from under his bridge again lol.

Eric, I got back to you on e-mail already. You already have most of what you need including springs for the cams, on a stock bottom end, yes you can go a bit smaller on the cam than the LE2 and still do very well. I still don't agree with the 112LSA is the only LSA for a ECU car like most of these companies do for years now living in the dark. Even the infamous lobe designers at Lunati still live in the dark in terms of LSA, Well Steve doesn't, but he has the kick *** $30K lobe design suite. At least I actually know what I'm talking about in terms of the background of this situation.

Bret

 

Well you seem to miss out on a few ways to work overlap and duration together to get the right combination of TQ and HP from low RPM to high RPM.

Overlap in most shelf cams is bad because the other two valve events EVO and IVC are in the wrong spots.

Bret