After years of sitting under dust, I'm finally completing the stock engine swap for the blown motor in 95 z m6 convertible. Everything was working before the engine died save for an intermittent clutch pedal depress switch. With the swap, I installed a racetronix fuel pump.

A few issues, when turning over the key the fuel gauge shows full even though it only has a couple gallons in. Secondly, I'm trying to prime the engine with oil so I have the coil lead to the opti disconnected. All fluids are full, all harness connections are hooked up, and the trans is out with no oils but sensors hooked up. When I crank I get fuel pump prime noises, everything lights up, but no turnover and the check gauges and engine lights stay lit but don't blink. What are the minimum of things that need to be hooked up to get the starter to crank? Any speculations on other things to check?

Thanks!
MJ

 

check to see if your getting power to the starter . is the starter engaging " clicking "??
or is it not doing anything when you turn the key ??
some of the resident experts here will be able to answer anything as long as you provide them with accurate information . good luck and hope to see you on the road soon

 

I dont know what all needs hooked up but be sure both the starter wires are connected and the small one to the right post. Make sure got your block grounds hooked up. I would also assume you would want to disable the fuel pump when attempting to prime in addition to the spark. Was motor primed before install?(done with intake off) if so you may not need to prime. If wasn't someone might suggest if having plugs out would be beneficial(could probably get half out quick and easy)

 

You're better off pulling the injector fuses so you don't pump fuel into the motor. Anyhow as long as the starter wires are connected and the clutch switch isn't acting up you should be good to go. You could jump the starter poles if you have a box (or a long screw driver but I don't recommend it).

 

No action on the starter. I only hear the fuel pump. I have both posts hooked up on the starter. How can I check the starter is getting power?

My ground at the right side engine mount and the post at the front left frame rail are both hooked up. If I can figure out which fuse is for the fuel injectors, I'll pull that next and hook the coil back up. It's been a while since the lifters were primed and rockers lashed. So, I'm priming as a safety measure.

I think I may replace the clutch switch as an elimination point.

Thanks for the replies.

 

Large terminal on the starter is hot at all times, the small terminal with the purple wire is hot only when the 'start' position is engaged with the key.

 

No crank charts from a 1996 factory manual....might help some.

http://www.ace1252.com/1996_Z28_Fact...ank_chart1.JPG
http://www.ace1252.com/1996_Z28_Fact...ank_chart2.JPG

I think Shoebox's site has the starter schematic for a 1995.

 

The would typically indicate a faulty float level sensor, an open circuit between the float level level sensor and the gauge, or the float is hung up on something in the tank. Shoebox has a guide to troubleshooting the fuel gauge also:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

Sometimes you have to scroll down a page of two when you click that particular link.

 

Update: Turns out you shouldn't bolt up the purple wire and small black wire to the smaller starter lead. After some probing around, I discovered the small black wire was ground #3 that goes to the RS engine block below the header and is for the PCM. Good news, car cranked and I've had it running, but make sure you don't miss that threaded plug above the oil filter when priming. Guess how I discovered mine was missing.

The fuel level sender sorted itself out.

Followup questions:
1) During idle the motor bobbles around as if a little off balance. When I rev it, it seems to "settle" out. The motor mounts are 140k miles old, but I don't remember the old engine bobbling like this before it tanked. During swap, I transfered my crank hub balancer from the 95 motor to the 94 motor. I lined it up based on the witness marks on its inside and installed it with the engine. Are the balancers specific to each motor or should I be investigating other things?

2) If assembly lube was used during a stock cam install (94 spec to 95 spec), should I change the oil soon, or is it fine until the first regular oil change.

Thanks for the help.

 

1) balances are interchangeable.
2) assembly live us miscible with engine oil.....it'll be fine until the first oil change.

 

It's possible that almost 20 years of age have done a number to the rubber in the damper as they have to the rubber in the motor mounts.

 

The pulleys are interchangeable IF they have an equal amount of weights in the same holes (usually it is none, but doesn't have to be).

 

I didn't see/get the balancer from the 94 swap so I couldn't compare. Would I be better served to get an after market damper?

 

Maybe it would be worth looking to see if there are any weights on your current pulley.

 

If there are, should I pop them out or potentially move them around? I was thinking about swapping in one of those fluid dampers.