Just curious how prevalent the various options for dealing with KR issues are. After quite a long time chasing false knock, trying the LT4 KM, "desensitising" resistors, etc. I just turned mine off and never looked back. Actually, it's one of the best "mods" I ever made. I am surprised how few people seem to have done this (turned it off) and am curious if it's as unusual as I think to do so. Obviously, if you've turned it off, you probably tried to deal with it some other way first. In that case, you should still pick "turned it off".

Rich

 

I plan on turning mine off by setting the tables to 0. I never had it on any of my other cars so I figure Ill be ok.

 

I've tried a lot of things in the past to get rid of 'phantom knock', but I had some engine damage all the time with my stock pistons being various stages of destruction and so was chasing other gremlins as well. The knock retard I think is frustrating to deal with is the kind that you get on the second blast which seems predictive. Also the preventative knock retard that occurs when you whack the throttle and it sees a sudden increase of air flow. When I get the engine back in the car with all it's expensive parts, I'm going to give it one more shot, then turn it off if I can't get it to work right.

 

Ive recently turned mine off as well. after seeing so many people fight false knock with LT4 KS and trying all sort of tricks to fool the KS. I finally said to heck with it. So it got turned off, as long as you keep and eye on what the motor is doing. It shouldt be a problem. Like you Rich, it has since woken up my car as well.

 

I was getting false knock from just off idle, all the way to WOT. It got progressively worse with more throttle. I had my tuner turn my ks off, and it made no difference performance wise. I made back to back runs at the track with it on and off, and ran almost identical times. But, my times were half a second and 5 mph slower than my average times.

EDIT - I should also add that my knock sensor was bad and threw a code, so I changed it. I accidentally over-torqued it, so I loosened it back up, but I was still getting false knock. I have heard that over torquing a ks will ruin it, so that may be my reason for false knock.

 

I have tried the LT4 KM but that was before I knew that it did very little and I may try an inline resistor, but if that doesn't work like I want it to then I will just tune it completely out.

 

Mine's been turned off for 5 years.... but then with a solid roller cam its not really practical to keep it.

 

I get very little knock (and fairly rarely)... at most I've seen it pull 3 degrees. I didn't have knock until I went to the 383. The 350 had the same engine mods and cam and it didn't knock at all. So i hit the left stock, know it's pulling option. Still using the LT1 module too.

 

When I had my 93 (around 1995) and built the forged 355 for it, it would get knock continually. so as an experiment I "zeroed" it out by Removing the knock sensor and putting it in padding and setting it on the fender. The car absolutely woke up. I then made it permanent with a resistor.

But premium gas is the only fuel to use as well.

My 97 has the tables "zeroed" as well with my 383 for the last 3 years and its fine.

 

I was surprised at how much 10W40 reduced my high MAP, low RPM retard.

 

left it alone for now, and it is doing suprisingly well considering i have a solid roller setup. ive seen it pull a max of 4 degrees at wot and occasionally it will pull timing at idle, but not that often.

 

You guys can also desensitize them with programming.

Thats what I do.. Leave enough on the table to catch it if it does knock but remove the possilbity of the knock sensor cutting the cars throat if it gets tripped up too bad.

From my experience on earlier cars the knock sensor does work and its not very often that its totally false knock. Don't believe me? Get a car thats reporting a couple degrees of timing.. zero out all the tables make a pull on the dyno then tune the knock out and see if there is a difference in power.

Just because you can't hear the car pinging inside the car doesn't mean that its not.. Nor does it mean that its not too much timing already.. You don't tune timing by putting it in until you hear it.

 

I tried the lt4 knock module. I also tried desensitizing it with programming. Mine was pulling around 9 degrees of timing at one point. I completely turned mine off with tunercat for OBD2. The car really responded well with a seat of the pants gain and better gas mileage.

 

How exactly do you do it with Tunercat? I think I know but I'm unsure.

 

To tune it out completly set the values to 0 in the following tables:
Max Knock Retard VS RPM (in P.E.)
Max Knock Retard VS RPM (not in P.E.)

If you want to have a bit of "safety" happening w/ knock retard adjust the above table to something above 0 (leave stock if u like) then
To allow the computer to "attack" knock quicker go to the Knock Retard Recovery Rate table. Increasing these numbers will increase how fast knock retard is removed when knock is detected @ that RPM. (i think ). Max val for this is 1. You can also go to the knock fast attack rate multiplyer table. I'm guessing it just multiplies its value by the values in the knock retard recovery rate table but am not 100% sure. SO increasing hte multiplyer should increase the attack rate as well.

I'll be playing with this today it looks like as I have some mystery knock happening all over the place...