I have it set to -3 right now. Going to bring it back to -2ish later on this week. Took the g-load brace side apart tonight and greased the heck out of it. Much better now. Under light throttle right before 2nd gear I hear it pop alittle. Going to try to push it to -1 or -2. Hopefully that will quite it down.

 

I generally run mine at no more than -2* on the street. Most people I know that have them run 0* on the street, but since mine isn't driven much I'll still keep it at -1* to -2*. Then when I go to the track, it gets a hefty adjustment.

 

So you notice less noise closer to 0 degrees?

 

I haven't really paid attention. But it's still a good idea since it puts strain on the driveline that is unnecessary for the street.

 

Yea I think I am going to adjust it down and see if that will quite it down.

My car is driven like 3K miles a year so Im not to worried about day to day wear and tear. But when I do take it out, I drive it like I stole it!!!

 

Well, I crawled under the car tonight and found that the rear TA bracket that bolts to the differential was hitting the drivers' side of the drive shaft tunnel. A little BFH therapy fixed the problem permanently, no more klunk. I'm cured!!

BFH Therapy

 

I drove it alittle last night and I heard alittle noises. I'm going to adjust it more towards -1 and I'll check it out and see if its running. And 94Sleeper....clean that thing man!

 

Did you use the rubber pads between the g-load brace and the mounting pads on the chassis?

Is it possible you have excessive backlash in the rear end? I know when I was running the Spohn with a rod end (back when the car was street driven and quiet enough to hear some of these noises), I could tell you exactly how much backlash the gears were set for.... that was the source of most of the noise.

I think the Spohn instructions are pretty clear on the possibility of interference at the driveshaft tunnel, although it gets worse if you have a Moser that moves the mounting point over a little, or a lowered car.

I'm not sure I would agree that "0" degrees is the best setting for least stress on the pinion angle. Yes, under light loads, the u-joints will be seeing some extra angular displacment if you start at -2deg, but under light loads its less likely to stress anything. But starting at "0", when you go to max torque load on the DS, the pinion is going to be pointing up and forcing the angle to a positive value, and increasing stress (and power loss) on the u-joints at exactly the time when they are seeing maximum loads. I would think that starting at -1deg or -2deg would be the preferred way to approach it. That way, when the DS/u-joints are under max load, the DS is straight.

 

I am using the rubber on the g-load brace. But I bought the TA used and the rubber was smushed pretty good. By the time I torqued it down it was the thickness of a sheet or two of paper. Don't think that is throwing it off. I'm going to go from -3 to -2 tonight and see. But I can't bealive 1 degree would do anything.

 

Palin and simple this torque arm is not for a daily driver. It translates to much driveline noise and vibes to the rest of the car but that is almost expected when mounted solidly to the floorboard and with a hard poly bushing or spherical end.

I had it on my car for a year and a half and took it off and sold it.

Coupled to my 9" it still did not clear the tunnel in the rear and dented my tunnel.

It also was to close to my LS1 driveshaft.

Have stock arm for the time being and it is so much nicer not having all the noise.

IT is a bulletproof piece and nice craftsman ship

 

I never thought of it that way. Very good advice Fred! Now I'm glad I leave it at -2* for the street.