Does splayed mean putting studs in the main caps instead of bolts? Is this better for high Rpms? How much does it run and what is the part number for them if possible.

Thanks everyone!

Camaro SS #1039 M6
__________________________________________________ ______________
Full bolt-on, cc306 1.6 RR, 4:10's, no emissions, Elibach springs, Bilstein shocks, BFG/KDW, Chrome Zr-1's.

 

Splayed does not mean putting studs in the main caps or the block. It refers to angling the main cap bolts into the block making it stronger than a conventional 4 bolt main cap. High RPM's is where you would need to splay your block but the reality is a studded 2 bolt will hold enough power for 98% of street cars.

You can contact a local machine shop and they can give you a quote.

pictures of splayed main caps

 

Typical parts and labor cost for replacing the stock three center caps with steel 4-bolt caps is ~$500.

Rich

 

VRE built me a 383 for my D1SC and they used a Studded 2-bolt. I was a little iffy, but I only plan to spin it to 6200, car should do 650RWHP though with my mods and the way I have the pulley's setup.

 

I just went though this winter, installed 4 bolt splayed caps. Mine was $450. My caps were walking around to much for my taste.

 

I guess I'm wrong again----I thought that Splayed mains were the addition of 2 cap bolts to each of the 3 mains resulting in a 4-bolt main----and that the additional bolts had to be angled in order to fit.

I didn't think that it was just angling the bolts because the angles made them stronger.

 

So will putting studs in handle 6500 rpms, I think that is how high i wanna spin my cc 306.






Camaro SS #1039 M6
__________________________________________________ ______________
Full bolt-on, cc306 1.6 RR, 4:10's, no emissions, Elibach springs, Bilstein shocks, BFG/KDW, Chrome Zr-1's.

 

In many 4-bolt conversions, the two outer bolts are angled outward ("splayed"). This can be done for several reasons, but generally isn't because they don't fit otherwise. They may be splayed in the belief that this will help resist side-to-side movement, although registers in the block can do a pretty good job of that. They may be angled to try and keep the new threads in the "meaty" part of the block webs.

The stock LT1 4-bolt block used in the Corvettes has a straight 4-bolt setup, not splayed. I've heard at least one knowledgable engine builder suggest that the straight bolts are stronger in the LT1, because the GM engineers knew they were going to use a straight 4-bolt setup, and put the metal there to support the straight configuration. I'm relatively familiar with an LT1 that made 1,125 flywheel HP, with the factory 4-bolt block (obviously upgraded studs and caps) and no block fill. And when the engine was torn down after several years, the block was still in good condition, and was sold to someone who used it to build a 1,000+ HP nitrous motor.

 

I have billet, straight 4-bolt caps in mine.

Rich

 

stock lt1 bottom end is cool at 6500rpm trust me mine lives there just make sure you have all other supporting mods for that cc306 i.e gm white oil pressure relief spring

 

Exactly what mine cost.

 

Holy old thread!

 

I'm still trying to figure out why people will drag up a post this old.... and not use it to ask a new question or ask the original poster how he solved his problem.... ?????????????????? And then people start responding to two year old responses.

 

Ha this is funny. I seen this post and was like I havent made any posts in here lately. I ended up just studding the mains, using clevite bearing, ARP rod bolts and good oiling. Canton 242-t pan and the Jegs street/strip pump with the 70 psi spring. I have about 4000 miles on it and about 25 passes at the track and runs good. 6500-6600 is where I usualy I shift but my dad bounced it off the rev limiter at 6850. Now I just need a 12 bolt (coming in march). The stock 10 bolt zexel torsion posi ripped off the ring gear and shatterd, a bearing race shatterd and a bolt on the left cap snapped off in turn tweeking the cap. Talk about popping the cover off and parts falling out everywhere


1997 Camaro SS #1039 M6
LE1 2.00-1.56 valves, LE Matched Intake, Holly 58mm, CC306, 1.6 Pro Magnums and 918's, 30lb injectors, Pacesetter Long tubes, TTL exhaust, No Emissions, Mad Z28 Tune, 4:10’s, C5 Brakes, Level II Suspension, Sphon LCA'S, Spohn Panhard, Hotchkis bars, Hotchkis STB, BFG KDW’s.

2005 Cobalt SS (daily driver) stock

 

I felt that since I got my engine done, I needed to update all my posts.