The trap door method is the way to go for replacement.

 

QFT. That way you can leave your gas tank filled, sleep in on a Saturday, go out and start and finish the job within 1-2 hrs, then go out that night. It's extemely simple and straight forward. I can have my fuel pump out in about 5-10 minutes.

 

Comes in handy when the hose blows off the top of the pump doesn't it?

 

i replaced mine with a holley 255lph pump. no complaints

 

Or when the pump wiggles itself loose in the bucket or the ground decides not to ground anymore.

 

You guys got a step through for that? I just need to know how far over to cut.

 

I just saw this posted in another thread.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html

I don't remember what I did with the one I used, but it had dimensions and everything. Try a search for 'trap door'.

 

*Update*

Went outside tonight after purchasing a 40$ fuel pressure gauge to test this thing tonight. Got it hooked up. 40-41psi at key on but not cranking. Cranked it right up and at idle the car had 40-41 psi.... everything is good so far. Rev the car to about 3000rpm and fuel pressure dipped to 35psi or so. Hit it hard to about 5000rpm and it dropped down to 28-30psi. Anyone wanna assume my fuel pump is bad? LOL

 

I'm no expert (far from it), but we had that exact same starting problem happen to our '02 SS at around 12,000 miles. I looked in my Haynes manual and tried undoing the airfilter/air intake and relatching it, and that did the trick. I guess it was due to an air intake leak? I dunno... Never had a problem with it ever again.

I remember several years ago, our '95 Z28 was having extremely low RPMs at idle and was dying as well every so often. I believe there was a huge crack in the underside of the air intake elbow, we replaced the elbow and the problem went away.

Perhaps you are having problems because the heat is expanding the plastics or something and making your leaks bigger???

Again, I'm not a mechanic... just trying to help.

 

My issue isnt at startup. Cold startup is fine. Once the car is running for a while the car starts running like crap and spitting and sputtering.

 

This could be the fuel pump or the fuel pump circuit. A bad connection or relay can cause this or the brushes in the pump motor are going.

If you do replace your fuel pump make sure you inspect the male terminals inside the tank for corrosion / pitting / discoloration. If they are suspect contact Racetronix for a special service kit.

The Racetronix system comes with new in-tank wiring which usually solves some age problems.

 

Car threw an SES code... going to get it checked out. BRB.

 

I really think you should at least check what I said... if the air can't pressure up, the car dies.

 

Drove the car tonight to try to get it to act up... got under the hood and started unplugging sensors one at a time to see if they were all functioning. Got in the car and let it sit then recranked it. SES light is on. I think sweet I finally get a code. Go to autozone to get it read. MAF sensor.... i'm an idiot... I unplugged it while it was running. I get all that straightened out and start the car to head home. It starts doing it's usual. I go inside and buy a coil and ICM. She purs like a kitten now. Man all that just to find out that I have a leaking intake manifold gasket and weak fuel pump. LOL

 

Smart man.... you get a cookie. haha