LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

smells like a caramel inside...

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Old Feb 18, 2003 | 08:26 PM
  #16  
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$180 doesn't sound too bad, I believe the unit is $117 or something with Jason Cromer, so an hours worth of labor or so isn't so bad to pay for being lazy

You may not be losing coolant now, but if your window is steaming up from the INSIDE, and the car smells funky, then its definately the heater box. I had about 2 weeks warning, before it emptied onto my floor. I hardly ever use the heater either, so I dont think I was using it around that time, unless it was to try and get rid of the crap steaming up my window
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 08:30 PM
  #17  
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Put some Barrs Leaks in the radiator. It might take care of the problem. Watch your temp guage as some people say it can make the thermostat stick open/shut. Its worth a try. Its worked 100% of the time for me, never used it for the camaro though...
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 08:32 PM
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I tried that, once the heater box starts opening up, its toast. I lost the radiator a few months later.
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 08:33 PM
  #19  
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Originally posted by Dr.Mudge
$180 doesn't sound too bad, I believe the unit is $117 or something with Jason Cromer, so an hours worth of labor or so isn't so bad to pay for being lazy

You may not be losing coolant now, but if your window is steaming up from the INSIDE, and the car smells funky, then its definately the heater box. I had about 2 weeks warning, before it emptied onto my floor. I hardly ever use the heater either, so I dont think I was using it around that time, unless it was to try and get rid of the crap steaming up my window
errr, since you are such an expert on this, i would like to ask you, what about if i dont want to use the heater? what should i do?? thanks man,
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 09:05 PM
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Just out of curiosity, have you had any problems with the car starting? My starter went, and the smell from it was very similair to caramel. The stock starters have a rubber "drain tube" on the bottom...When I rubbed my finger on it I noticed the smell.

Frank
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally posted by 12SCNDZ
Just out of curiosity, have you had any problems with the car starting? My starter went, and the smell from it was very similair to caramel. The stock starters have a rubber "drain tube" on the bottom...When I rubbed my finger on it I noticed the smell.

Frank
nope, not one trouble........this doesnt happen eveytime though...so i wonder if my heater core is gonna die soon....hopefully not, cause i'm broke
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 09:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by TMDZ28
what about if i dont want to use the heater? what should i do??
You could just take both hoses off at the engine cap them (the loose hoses that runn to the heater core) off then run a hose from the inlet to the outlet at the engine.
Not a great explanation but I hope you understand.
Fords were real easy to do this to because they used the same size hoses.
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 10:58 PM
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Originally posted by 96ltz
You could just take both hoses off at the engine cap them (the loose hoses that runn to the heater core) off then run a hose from the inlet to the outlet at the engine.
Not a great explanation but I hope you understand.
Fords were real easy to do this to because they used the same size hoses.
errr. i think i get it...it's just like doing a TB bypass rite?
Old Feb 18, 2003 | 11:20 PM
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exactly!
Old Feb 19, 2003 | 10:35 AM
  #25  
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thanks guys....you guys rules.....i dont know where i'll be without your help
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 11:02 AM
  #26  
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If you are going to the cruise this weekend. I'll bring a radiator pressurizer to confirm the location of the leak. It sounds like the heater but it good to verify the issue. By loosing pressure (small or large) you are effectively dropping the pressure in the system. By dropping the pressure, you are lowering the boiling point. That is bad.

When the boiling point is lowered, you will get bubbles from the boiling coolant which create hot spots. Those spots are localized areas which the coolant cannot touch because the air is blocking the coolant from the surface. That can cause heat stresses and cracks. Ultimately, it can warp not only the aluminum cyl. heads but can also create hot spots on the cylinder walls.

Let's not get into any trouble here. I will bring the tester. Call me to remind me on Saturday, my number is in the SCCC directory.

Personally, I would get a plumbing pipe with the diameter that is equal to the inner diameter of the heater hose with two clamps. I wouldn't want to obstruct the flow with bolts. Either way, the idea is to bypass the heater completely. Again, I'd go like the TB bypass and get 1 pipe (2-3 inches) and 2 hose clamps, versus 2 block off bolts.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 12:56 PM
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Originally posted by TMDZ28
errr, since you are such an expert on this, i would like to ask you, what about if i dont want to use the heater? what should i do?? thanks man,
Oh well, I'm not an expert, but unfortunately you can't just "not use the heater." Coolant constantly circulates though the heater box, and when you use the heater all you do is open a valve inside the heater box. It also catches heat from the engine compartment.

If you really dont care about the heater, and just want to "fix" this cheaply, plug those holes with the bolts I mentioned. Not positive on the sizes but you can figure it out. One hose is smaller than the other so you dont put them on the wrong part of the heater box. I've run this way for nearly 2 years, because I just haven't replaced my heater box either. In my area though for defrost etc, a heater is way more important than AC, I dont plan on ever putting the AC back on the car unless I sell it and someone actually cares about it not being there
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 12:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally posted by TMDZ28
errr. i think i get it...it's just like doing a TB bypass rite?
Either method works, the hoses are different sizes, but close enough that a hose clamp probably will seal on the larger hose and not ruin it. You wont need but a couple inches, so you can cut whatever you find if you can't find anything short enough.

Definately do this PRONTO, before its too late and your stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 04:29 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by Dr.Mudge
Either method works, the hoses are different sizes, but close enough that a hose clamp probably will seal on the larger hose and not ruin it. You wont need but a couple inches, so you can cut whatever you find if you can't find anything short enough.

Definately do this PRONTO, before its too late and your stranded in the middle of nowhere.
you are the man thanks Dr.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 04:33 PM
  #30  
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Without Dr. and Shoebox most members here would be a little dumber.

You guys do rule!



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