smells like a caramel inside...
Registered User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 135
From: Port Neches, TX
Just another suggestion, but if you don't want to spend $120 for a GM heater core, you can buy one from Autozone for $60. Some parts I buy are only GM, but I figured I'd try the Autozone heater core, and it worked fine.
The heater core is actually pretty easy to replace...If you plan on keeping your car for more than a few months, then you should think about starting to work on the car yourself. You WILL have more broken parts, and labor gets expensive real quick.
The heater core is actually pretty easy to replace...If you plan on keeping your car for more than a few months, then you should think about starting to work on the car yourself. You WILL have more broken parts, and labor gets expensive real quick.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,450
From: LA, So Cal
Originally posted by QUICK305
Just another suggestion, but if you don't want to spend $120 for a GM heater core, you can buy one from Autozone for $60. Some parts I buy are only GM, but I figured I'd try the Autozone heater core, and it worked fine.
The heater core is actually pretty easy to replace...If you plan on keeping your car for more than a few months, then you should think about starting to work on the car yourself. You WILL have more broken parts, and labor gets expensive real quick.
Just another suggestion, but if you don't want to spend $120 for a GM heater core, you can buy one from Autozone for $60. Some parts I buy are only GM, but I figured I'd try the Autozone heater core, and it worked fine.
The heater core is actually pretty easy to replace...If you plan on keeping your car for more than a few months, then you should think about starting to work on the car yourself. You WILL have more broken parts, and labor gets expensive real quick.
$60 in autozone?? are you for real?? if it's only $60 i can do it by myself......well, i'll try to bypass it like our doc here said. then in a couple of weeks, i'll buy a heater core from autozone...thanks dude
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,450
From: LA, So Cal
Originally posted by Wild1
If you are going to the cruise this weekend. I'll bring a radiator pressurizer to confirm the location of the leak. It sounds like the heater but it good to verify the issue. By loosing pressure (small or large) you are effectively dropping the pressure in the system. By dropping the pressure, you are lowering the boiling point. That is bad.
When the boiling point is lowered, you will get bubbles from the boiling coolant which create hot spots. Those spots are localized areas which the coolant cannot touch because the air is blocking the coolant from the surface. That can cause heat stresses and cracks. Ultimately, it can warp not only the aluminum cyl. heads but can also create hot spots on the cylinder walls.
Let's not get into any trouble here. I will bring the tester. Call me to remind me on Saturday, my number is in the SCCC directory.
Personally, I would get a plumbing pipe with the diameter that is equal to the inner diameter of the heater hose with two clamps. I wouldn't want to obstruct the flow with bolts. Either way, the idea is to bypass the heater completely. Again, I'd go like the TB bypass and get 1 pipe (2-3 inches) and 2 hose clamps, versus 2 block off bolts.
If you are going to the cruise this weekend. I'll bring a radiator pressurizer to confirm the location of the leak. It sounds like the heater but it good to verify the issue. By loosing pressure (small or large) you are effectively dropping the pressure in the system. By dropping the pressure, you are lowering the boiling point. That is bad.
When the boiling point is lowered, you will get bubbles from the boiling coolant which create hot spots. Those spots are localized areas which the coolant cannot touch because the air is blocking the coolant from the surface. That can cause heat stresses and cracks. Ultimately, it can warp not only the aluminum cyl. heads but can also create hot spots on the cylinder walls.
Let's not get into any trouble here. I will bring the tester. Call me to remind me on Saturday, my number is in the SCCC directory.
Personally, I would get a plumbing pipe with the diameter that is equal to the inner diameter of the heater hose with two clamps. I wouldn't want to obstruct the flow with bolts. Either way, the idea is to bypass the heater completely. Again, I'd go like the TB bypass and get 1 pipe (2-3 inches) and 2 hose clamps, versus 2 block off bolts.
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