Ok guys I did a search but wanted to ask my specific questions with listing the data from my scanner. I have a 97 Camaro LT1 6spd. I have owned the car since 1999. I bought it with 14k on it and it now has 58k It has FLP long tubes with cats, no rear O2's (tuned out and o2 sims are still in place) with SLP TOTL. Also has a mail order tune from PCMForless. All have been on the car since 01. I have Magnacore wires run over the valve covers with insulating boots on every wire. NGK plugs they were both done in 07 with about 55k on it. The opti was done under warranty. When it is idleing the rpms stay consistent but the car has a slight shake to it, and you can hear a sligh popping out the exhaust every once in a while. It is pretty consistent. When driving the car does not feel right as far as power and sound. It still moves pretty good but not like it should. The sound is almost like that shaking sound with in the exhaust(awesome sound of my TOTL).

None of the wires are burnt that I could see and I pressed on all of them to make sure they did not come loose from the plugs or the opti.

Readings are fully warm at idle.

All the readings were taken with a Hypertech Power Scan Module.

NO Check Engine Light.

MAP: 30-32 Kpa

MAF: 7.8-8.0 g/s

Egn load: 3%

Trim: 16

Ho2S1B1: 75 up to 800 mv

Ho2S2B1: 3xx up to 745 mv

LTFTB1: +2% 129

LTFTB2: +16% 143

STFTB1: -1 to +3

STFTB2: -8 to +3

Thanks for the help.

Derek

 

Appears something is causing the PCM to have to add extra fuel on Bank 2 (right/passenger side) of the engine. This may be an indication of a misfire, exhaust leak, or O2 sensor problem on that side.

You've provided info only on two for the 4 O2 sensors. B1S1 is the pre-cat sensor on the left (driver's) side, and the voltage switching range is normal. B2S2 is the after-cat sensor (or sim) on the right (passenger side) and the voltage range is what a normal after-cat O2 sensor (or sim) would show behind a working cat. What is the normal voltage switching range for the B2S1 sensor?

MAP, MAF, fuel trim cell and left bank O2 sensor and LTFT normal. Since there are no codes (there are codes that don't turn on the SES light), and the SES light is not flashing, it would appear the misfire detection system is not detecting the minor irregularities.

 

Fred,

I made a typo on the Ho2S2B2 it should be Ho2S2B1. I will confirm it this afternoon when I get out of work but that is what I wrote on the pad. I just scanned it for codes, none present. I also do not hear any exhaust leaks or see any evidence of one. The V-bands at the collectors are tight with no black from the exhaust. I even sprayed the top end of the motor (intake area etc) with brake clean to see if it was a vaccum leak. Nothing.

Derek

 

Can you temp the primaries? See if there is a big difference in temperature could mean that cylinder is dead/misfiring.

I just changed my wires and somehow, someway switched 2 and 8....
(probably due to the fact it has to go in and around the power steering pump )

I had the same symptoms as you only the slight popping was not slight (open headers) but I didn't let it warm up or anything. The low tech way was after shut down feeling the header tubes... I found it was 2 and 8 where cold. Checked each wire.... confirmed my impatience swapped wires and bingo was his name-o.

I hope your problem is as simple as mine was.

 

The wires and plugs have been on there since 07 with no other issues. I am going to check all the wires on the passenger side again for damage etc. One of my friends suggested I do the same. I just have to find someone with a pyrometer in my area.

 

Ok put it back on the scanner to double check the readings

The Ho2s2B1 is correct above 3xx-745.

The 2nd banks are

Ho2s1B2: 160-675 mv

Ho2S2B2: 392-745 mv

I almost seems as though my S2B1 and my S1B2 are switched?

I did have my tranny out for a clutch and had to put in a new oil pan gasket this winter but I never disconnected the o2 sims from there prospective plugs. I guess I will put it in the air when I get a chance and take a look. Are the o2 plugs the same shape front and rear? Now you know I have not looked at the rears in a while!! I just zip tie the up out of the way with the o2 sims attached.

Just found the fronts are flat 4pin and the rears are square, so I could not have mixed them up.

Any other thoughts?

Derek

 

The front O2 sensors have flat (4x1) connectors. The after-cat are square (2x2).
You can't screw up sims by switching the left and the right... they should be identical.

 

Ok had a quick minute to get under the camaro.

I unplugged my o2 simulators from the rear sensor wires and the s2b2 read 400 and the s2b1 read 400. Yes the s2b1 is right.

The s1b1 o2 is functioning fine. The s1b2 is still going between 160-675.
So I unplugged the s2b1 wire and the s1b2 then read 400.

I then unplugged the s1b1 and it also went to 400.

Maybe my scanner is f-ed up?

I just read the thread on the o2 sensor wiring so I will check all the wiring and try to test it. My cousin is also going to borrow a tech 2 and bring it over next friday.

Any other thoughts on this??

Thanks
Derek

 

When you unplug an O2 sensor, typically you will see aout 450mV. That's the PCM seeing its own internal bias voltage on the open circuit.

When you say S1B1 is "functioning fine".... what exactly are the readings swinging between? Is that a wider range than S1B2?

 

Yes much wider. going down into the 75 range and up to 8xx range. The ranges I put up are still the ranges except for when you unplug them. The scanner is reading 400 for each sensor once they are unplugged.

 

Anybody have there unplugged O2 values read 400 mv?? Any reason why they would read 400 and not 450?