Originally Posted by Getsome17

I had similar issues with my car a few years ago the car would run fine run right up to 6000 rpm hard but every now and then it would completely fall on its face dropping like you said anywhere from 100rpms to 1000rpms. Eventually it got to the point where it would die and not start again for a little while, yet it was showing no codes. So I swapped out a few parts and nothing seemed to help. What it ended up being was the ignition switch on the top of the steering column was burned up and was shorting out making the car act like I was turning the key off and back on. It might not be your problem but it is defiantly something worth checking.

Originally Posted by z0s0

An update on this...I was able to borrow an aldl cable and checked for codes using datamaster, no codes whatsoever. I captured a datastream by running it for a few minutes with datamaster recording. This is the first time I've ever used it so I'm really not sure about the impact of some of these values, but what stands out to me is the "Fuel Trim Cell" value is 16, and is yellow in the DM display. The Lterm fuel values were each between -6 and 7%, and were light red for the whole session according to DM, indicating rich. The Sterm values varied between rich, normal and lean (mostly normal and rich) throughout. Ignition voltage stayed at a steady 13v throughout but I did see it drop to 12.6 at one point. Also noticed that the MAP reading stayed at 31-32kpa, however when I revved it to about 3500rpm, I saw it drop to around 13. Isn't it supposed to rise when you rev, or is that only if you're in gear? All this data was captured in Park, in my driveway.

I'm going to get another capture today, and start it before I even start the car and let it go for like 10-15 minutes and see if anything else pops out.

Without any codes thrown at all, does it seem less likely this is the opti or ignition components that are causing the car to die out?

As noted previously, the fuel system pressure was checked and is within spec (40-41psi). Is it possible that a full charcoal canister could cause a rich condition?

I'm going to take the maf sensor out and see if it is fouled in any way and possibly check the coil resistance. Aside from that I'm really not sure here, if anyone has any ideas, let me know. I cannot drive the car with it stalling out like this, not on the highways I commute on.