LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

shoebox, injuneer... knock sensor circuit?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 26, 2003 | 06:17 PM
  #16  
NXz28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
From: Tampa, FL
Originally posted by Mtrhds94Z
Make sure the KS isn't 'insulated' from grounding in the block [for example, by too much teflon tape/sealer etc.]
It has to have a good ground from it's body to the engine block..
Try the ohmmeter from the KS terminal to the body of the sensor and see what you get..
when i installed the knock sensor i didn't use any type of sealer or teflon tape. Just screwed it in, and torqued it down. I tried from the ks terminal to the metal body of the ks, and from ks terminal to several different grounds. No readings at all. The mulitmeter is not picking up anything.

Should i just buy a new knock sensor?

Also wanted to add, that before i had the service engine soon light, the car had a consistent part throttle only hesistation that went away after the ses light came on.
Old Oct 26, 2003 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
shoebox's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 27,730
From: Little Rock, AR
Originally posted by NXz28
what does that mean? the sensor being open part?
Open as in open circuit. No continuity. Busted/broke.
Old Oct 26, 2003 | 10:41 PM
  #18  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,122
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
When you checked the single wire in the harness, you should have pulled the wire off the sensor, turned the key on, set the multimeter to "DC Volts". Connecting from the harness wire to ground should produce about 5V. IT appears you successfully completed this step.

Then.... reset your multimeter to "Ohms", and without connecting the harness wire, probe from the single pin on the knock sensor to the block. Should read 4Kohms. I'm willing to bet you actually got 4.05 Kohms. Are youy sure is was only 4.05 ohms?

Anothe thing to check - reconnect the harness wire to the knock sensor, key on, reset your multimeter to "DC Volts"... should read 2.5V.

Based on some of your questions, and the way you described your use of the meter, it isn't clear that you are setting it correctly.
Old Oct 26, 2003 | 11:39 PM
  #19  
NXz28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
From: Tampa, FL
Originally posted by Injuneer

Then.... reset your multimeter to "Ohms", and without connecting the harness wire, probe from the single pin on the knock sensor to the block. Should read 4Kohms. I'm willing to bet you actually got 4.05 Kohms. Are youy sure is was only 4.05 ohms?
When i got 4.05 ohms not sure if it was kohms or ohms, i had red wire plug into harness, black wire to ground.

When i performed the checks to get a resistance reading b/w the knock sensor terminal and the block the key was OFF. That's waht shoebox said earlier, in your above statement you didnt mention it. I'm not sure if it would make a difference.

Originally posted by Injuneer

Anothe thing to check - reconnect the harness wire to the knock sensor, key on, reset your multimeter to "DC Volts"... should read 2.5V.
I'm unsure at which two points do you want me to check the voltage?

Originally posted by Injuneer

Based on some of your questions, and the way you described your use of the meter, it isn't clear that you are setting it correctly.
I tried to describe everything i did step by step so it would be easier to determine this...

Thanks for the help and all the replies
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 01:36 PM
  #20  
Injuneer's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,122
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Originally posted by NXz28
When i got 4.05 ohms not sure if it was kohms or ohms, i had red wire plug into harness, black wire to ground.
You need to know which one it was... 4.05 K ohms is good. 4.05 ohms is bad.
When i performed the checks to get a resistance reading b/w the knock sensor terminal and the block the key was OFF. That's waht shoebox said earlier, in your above statement you didnt mention it. I'm not sure if it would make a difference.
As long as the harness connector is not connected to the knock sensor, it doesn't make any difference.
I'm unsure at which two points do you want me to check the voltage?
Connector on the knock sensor, key on. Push the red wire pin into the connection between the harness and the pin on the KS. Put the black wire pin on the block. Read voltage.
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 02:34 PM
  #21  
JACLT1S's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 230
From: STL MO METRO EAST
same problem

this is very similiar to the same problem/code I am getting. The idea of using too much sealant is interesting, I may have done that, but the car seemed to drive fine until just recently. The car sat undriven for a week, then developed this code too.
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 03:03 PM
  #22  
NXz28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
From: Tampa, FL
Originally posted by Injuneer
You need to know which one it was... 4.05 K ohms is good. 4.05 ohms is bad.

I see whatyour saying but shoebox told me i performed this part incorrectly. I measured resistance b/w the harness and the ground... NOT b/w the sensor terminal and the block
Old Oct 28, 2003 | 05:06 PM
  #23  
NXz28's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
From: Tampa, FL
put a new knock sensor in. measured b/w the ks terminal and the metal body of the ks got 3.88 K ohm consistently...
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
99z28 carguy
LS1 Based Engine Tech
4
May 26, 2015 11:35 AM
timmy39120
LT1 Based Engine Tech
7
May 8, 2015 11:41 AM
4586
LT1 Based Engine Tech
4
Mar 18, 2015 06:31 PM
IgorT.455/406
LT1 Based Engine Tech
31
Feb 1, 2005 06:18 AM
NJ SPEEDER
Drag Racing Technique
2
Jul 19, 2002 10:22 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:32 PM.