Runs better in open loop
Runs better in open loop
So I've replaced both O2 sensors and it definately drove smoother when I had one unplugged and it was staying in open loop. It feels like something is pulling it back under light throttle , almost feels like the a/c is on. Not getting a SES light. Should I check out the ect sensor on the wp? I've replaced the ect in the block for the guage ... I didnt bother soldering it. I'm pretty sure that isn't relevant though is it? any input is appreciated.
Mine had a problem with burned wires going to the right side O2. They got cooked where they go down the inner fender well inside the foil over wrap.
There's a neat little trick to check wiring that I used to find the problem, but you still need something to read the O2 data to find it.
The SES may not come on with both the O2s connected depending on what your problem is. My burnt wires never made the SES come on and yet you could clearly see the lack of movement in the O2 signal.
However, with one disconnected, you will eventually get an SES.
There's a neat little trick to check wiring that I used to find the problem, but you still need something to read the O2 data to find it.
The SES may not come on with both the O2s connected depending on what your problem is. My burnt wires never made the SES come on and yet you could clearly see the lack of movement in the O2 signal.
However, with one disconnected, you will eventually get an SES.
Last edited by Guest47904; Oct 3, 2009 at 06:36 AM.
I havent had them unplugged since I replaced the driver side one. I know on the passenger side the connector at the end of the o2 was burnt , melted pretty badly from laying on top of the header collector. So you think that could be "whats pulling me back"? the plug that the o2 connects to being slightly melted? I'll have to take another look at it , I dont remember how bad it looked
That's a good place to start. But without the ability to see the data, your operating blind. The connection end of the O2 itself is important that you keep it intact from the factory. Don't cut and splice it. If it's damaged simply replace the whole O2. If the wiring from the PCM end of the harness is damaged you can repair it with no problems.
The reason you shouldn't mess with the O2 side of the wiring is the O2 gets it's source of air (Oxygen) from the wiring. I've even seen articles that recommend against using dielectric grease on these connections.
The reason you shouldn't mess with the O2 side of the wiring is the O2 gets it's source of air (Oxygen) from the wiring. I've even seen articles that recommend against using dielectric grease on these connections.
Mine had a problem with burned wires going to the right side O2. They got cooked where they go down the inner fender well inside the foil over wrap.
There's a neat little trick to check wiring that I used to find the problem, but you still need something to read the O2 data to find it.
The SES may not come on with both the O2s connected depending on what your problem is. My burnt wires never made the SES come on and yet you could clearly see the lack of movement in the O2 signal.
However, with one disconnected, you will eventually get an SES.
There's a neat little trick to check wiring that I used to find the problem, but you still need something to read the O2 data to find it.
The SES may not come on with both the O2s connected depending on what your problem is. My burnt wires never made the SES come on and yet you could clearly see the lack of movement in the O2 signal.
However, with one disconnected, you will eventually get an SES.
Don't fix the wires between the connector and the O2
Repairs should always be soldered and shrink wrapped.
Yeah on mine I thought the foil would protect the wires inside. No dice I even had to fix the wire going to the starter too. I rerouted them a totally different way to avoid the heat.
Last edited by Guest47904; Oct 4, 2009 at 10:27 AM.
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