is the 350 bearings that u get from auto zone hte same for an LT-1 when they look it up it pulls up like 20 dollars for the main bearings and 2 a piece for the rod bearings everywhere else they are like 60-70 dollars each for the sets whats up?

 

I dunno, but I wouldn't buy anything but a brand name bearing. You can buy a set of Clevite "77" rod and main bearings for ~$60. That's what I'd do.

Rich Krause

 

Part numbers for the clevite?

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...tart&catid=373

Google is your friend.

-Mindgame

 

I guess they are the cb663h

THanks!!

 

Hey, if you're looking for the coated bearings (as your post in AT would suggest) they have a totally different part number. Check out CV Products for current prices but expect to pay ~$100 for the main bearings.

-Mindgame

 

What is CV products? if I just payed 60 for the rod bearings.. 100 doesn't seem too expensive.. I think I will just cancel my order... `

 

The purpose of coating bearings is wear reduction in extremely high mileage applications. Coating may also minimize the chance of damage to the crank journal in case of marginal lubrication or lubrication failure. But it is really one of the last things to think of doing in an engine. If the bearings are properly selected and installed and the engine and crank are machined correctly, bearing failure is very, very rare. And in a high performance application, the engine should be apart and have fresh bearings long before wear becomes an issue. IOW, don't bother.

Rich Krause

 

Thanks...

Then I wont...

The reality is that since i have the engine all alone in the engine bay and now I have to remove the crank to change the rod bolts I will go ahead and coat the piston crowns and skirts since the heads are already ceramic coated. So.....

I thought of coating the bearings...

Anyways.. Thanks

 

I'm with Rich on this one. Spend your money elsewhere.

Not to hoarde a thread or anything but this brings up something I've heard from a lot of friends and fellow car junkies lately. Maybe some other guys would like to comment?

Seems that there are more well informed gearheads out there these days. I'd have to give much credit to the "good" tech from magazines, cause many of them are employing some really knowledgable people like Jim McFarland, David Vizard, Marlan Davis, etc.. That and the fact that people are getting better at cutting through the BS due to our relationships with thousands of hobbyist via the www .

Talking magazines again.... one thing people are really watching are these Engine Masters Challenge build ups. Now talking about coated bearings.... never really heard much about them before the EMC but now everyone's in love with them. Don't get me wrong, I think they have their place but I can't help thinking that people are buying into the I've gotta get those cause the guy who won had those thing. Well, keep in mind that these guys are looking for every contingency point they can get ($$). To the point of using products they normally wouldn't just to get the contingency payout. They're also sparing no expense (some aren't anyways) to get every last shred of hp they can get.
So you can't buy into everything that's going on there. These engines are purpose built, right down to the method in which they'll be dyno tested. Most of them are basically trick race engines built to make power in a specific rpm range.

Don't mean to sound negative about the EMC.... quite the opposite actually! I think they're great and get a good deal out of these buildup profiles and interviews with the builders. A hell of a lot more than I get out of their "Camshaft 101" and "Holley tuning tricks" articles, that's for sure.

When you look at the principle behind a hydrostatic bearing, coatings (while still being a good thing) just don't make sense money wise.

Sorry about the long dissertation, just had some thoughts racing through the ol' cranium.

-Mindgame

 

By all means.. post away.. i like these points of view.. but the thing was this...

cost of coating was $40 bucks for a complete set of bearings or something similar from calico coatings...

I had my heads done with phil @ ai. I decided to do the coatings on the heads for the exhaust ports and combustion chambers to have a cooler running engine (if at all possible) in the 100F heat here in PR. Normally my engine will run at 190F w/o problems.. but turn the A/C on and it sky rockets... I want my engine to run at 180F if possible at traffic and such... I've read that if you are going to spend the $, spend it on the heads.. right? Well I did that.. I am not getting much more out of them from porting them more as I will be enlarging them more than I Want to.

Today I bought a Callies Racemaster crank.. thanks to the awful advice I always follow from rskrause that makes me spend more and more $. I decided to upgrade from the eagle crank because I remember when I worked with my pops and we were cutting some schedule 40 tubings for electricity lines and other things, how easy it was to cut the same Specced tube from a chinese manufacturer vs the american made. My pops always bought the american made because of the difference in material and quality. Hence I went with the Racemaster callies. Many people like it and so does rich , he always recommended the dragonslayer, but i decided to go a bit further. I will upgrade the rod bolts which were the 8740 ARP to the l19. With 700rwhp it will not hold together and i will have a granaded motor... Everything will be sent again to be balanced neutrally.

All this was after I dented my oil pan while jacking up the car, as i had no intentions of removing the engine.. Well.. now.. since the engine has to be pulled up (there is no tranny due to change of clutch to a ST) to be able to remove the oil pan. there are no heads in the car.. there is nothing attached to the engine.. Heck, might as well remove it, remove the pistons and coat the crowns and skirts while im at it...

I figure with the bunch of bucks I have spent on this engine between heads cam, coatings, gaskets, studs, bolts, supercharger (ysi 2300 bucks), crap, and now a completely new crank of 1500 bucks (shipping is what kills me here) then I guess I might do the job completely and coat whatever stuff I have left.

I also sent the intake to be coated on the inside for a TBC all this es easier since all was at phil's place for porting and he is 30 mins from calico coatings. (I will send the pistons to swain tech though). if it works i dont know.. i just didn't want to skimp on anything... I thought the coated bearings would give me better oiling and maybe longer life with the HP figures I want to achieve. This will be a totally weekend car and totally pump gas. I even bought a kit for water/alkyl injection.

So if it will give me more mileage before having to refresh... why not? all the coatings have been done in the search for more "reliability" not for HP. For HP i got boost. If it gives me HP along the way.. WELCOME... I wanted a bit cooler engine with better protection of the pistons.. That after taking off the heads with only 3k miles of pure beating and racing... Pistons where intact. Might as well keep them that way when more power is applied to them.