LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Rod Choice

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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
SantaCruz163's Avatar
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Rod Choice

I'm debating on what rods I should use. My setup will be a blown 383. I plan on using a D1 at 18#, and maybe a 100 shot down the road. I was thinking about using the Eagle Forged 4340 6.0" H beam rods, I heard they are rated up to 700hp+? Then I was thinking about Oliver Billet 6.0 I beam rods, don't know the HP rating on those.How More much more expensive are the Oliver's than the Eagles? Where would I be able to buy the Oliver's if I decide to go with them? Which rods should I go with?
Old Aug 20, 2003 | 02:54 PM
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SantaCruz163's Avatar
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ttt
Old Aug 20, 2003 | 03:00 PM
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Injuneer's Avatar
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18# boost, plus a 100-shot and your thinking of using
"700HP" rods? I would think you would be looking at wayyyy more than 700HP. With extreme boost, and N2O on top of that, I wouldn't even consider a 6" rod. The wrist pin is going to be too close to the crown. Its going to be way up in the ring pack, particularly if you drop the pack down on the piston to get the top ring out of the intense heat of boost + juice. Look into a 5.85" rod.

I saw a set of Oliver forged 5.7's come out of an 800HP blower LT1 (no juice) and they were showing signs of stress. The owner opted for 5.85" Oliver billets ($1,150) and I followed suite.... The Olivers held 1,125 flywheel on a 20# boost motor, and are still going strong in an 1,100HP nitrous stroker.
Old Aug 20, 2003 | 03:06 PM
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kmook's Avatar
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Yep what Fredo said ^

On a well tuned properly running setup your looking at probably just under 1000fwhp. No way id use a forged rod or a 6" rod.

If your gonna make the power, you gotta spend to keep it together
Old Aug 20, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #5  
Jeff Belloma
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oliver billet, lunati billet, carillo, and lae. i would and have used any and all of those rods in an engine of this level.

the compression height is a biggie but we've tried a bit of everything from the "typical" to the "that's just stupid" to find a few extra ponies here and there. and not to take anything away from the ring pack position arguement but something that isn't mentioned at all in these debates.... a shorter rod places the point of maximum cylinder pressure at a much more advantageous "time" when using a power adder, especially nitrous. in our top sportsman small blocks at well over 1400 hp, that in itself has made for much quicker trips and fewer broken parts. food for thought.

JB
Old Aug 20, 2003 | 06:27 PM
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Originally posted by Jeff Belloma
oliver billet, lunati billet, carillo, and lae. i would and have used any and all of those rods in an engine of this level.

the compression height is a biggie but we've tried a bit of everything from the "typical" to the "that's just stupid" to find a few extra ponies here and there. and not to take anything away from the ring pack position arguement but something that isn't mentioned at all in these debates.... a shorter rod places the point of maximum cylinder pressure at a much more advantageous "time" when using a power adder, especially nitrous. in our top sportsman small blocks at well over 1400 hp, that in itself has made for much quicker trips and fewer broken parts. food for thought.

JB
Jeff: I have been arguing for a "short rod" setup in a forced induction motor for quite some time. It's nice to have some company!

Rich Krause
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