I have an SFI approved LT1 specific fluidampr. it came with a spacer and it is a single keyway design. I am going to put this on my 95 camaro. I am doing the timing chain, wp, seals etc all at once. now that I have it apart I noticv how much material has been removed and balanced within the original pully and hub that is on the crank. I am assuming I just get the old one off do what I have to and the fluidampr is a one piece design that replaces the hub and pully. I was not sure if the washer goes on first or last and if it is ok to do this. my engine is stock. will putting this piece on throw off the balance of the engine? thanks guys. kurt

 

Front half of the motor is internal balance - assuming the old damper and new one are both at zero you will be just fine.

 

The washer (it's actually a spacer) goes on first.

 

nice ai guess that answers that! I was figuring it was a spacer that was very important and good to know if it is zero balance then I am ok. that will be nice to put back on. one simple piece. I dont have to use the old bolts. The sears craftsman hub puller is only $19.99. I will probably just buy the tool to have it. it comes with bolts but if I have to buy more they are cheap enugh at lowes or HD. Only have to remove the hub now and then I am into my project with my new timing set and seals. the whole front of my engine is going to be like new. Just need somone ot install my damn rockers now!!

 

make sure you put a key in the crank to keep that damper in place.

 

Put a key in the crank? It does have a single keyway. is that what your talking about? My understanding is that with a single keyway it only goes on one way anyway....somthing I am missing?

 

You are missing the fact that when you remove your old stock damper, you will not find a key in there.

 

well I took off the old damper and it fell right off the hub. Now I need another kind of puller to get off the hub.... I have another lt1 sitting in my garage that has a single keyway crank and I am gessing the stock one has no keyay at all (just round?) Is that what your telling me? if that is the case then when I do the timing chain I just have to make sure nothing moves at all. As for The orientation of the new fluidampr... Although I can get it back on and maybe line up the fluidampr keyway on it with the old spot where the arrow points up on the old hub/damper. there is no actual keyway on the crank to match it up with? What kind of problem will it pose me? Which way should it point so I dont run into any problems. I have the spacer and I can see a spot where the piece should be down on the crank nose. It is a one piece that will recess about a cm under the timing cover seal.

 

The stock damper hub has no keyway in it, hence no key. The stock crank has a keyway. The timing set does have a key in the crank sprocket to keep it where it belongs. When you align the dots on the timing set, you will know where the arrow on the stock damper should point. If you are "off" it will have no impact, since the stock damper is neutral balanced.

The ATI eliminates the guesswork with a keyway. While you are installing the ATI, it pays to add an external pointer that aligns correctly with the timing marks around the outside edge of the ATI damper.

 

okay - so although the new fluidampr has a keyway in it. Not having one on the stock crank hub will affect nothing. It should slide on and have the little keyway gap but it does not impact anything. If it is off it is okay because it is just the pully and not the timing set obviously. btw injuneer. The fluidampr replaces the hub and pully. The stock old hub with no keyway will be gone all together. The fluidamper replaces two things at once. Snakeoiler makes me worry. He says the new fluidampr hub won't stay in place without a keyway. I will be able to put the bolt through the middle and it has thee bolt holes that I know are for Pulling it off but serve no other purpose. Will it stay put with no keyed crank nose? I know the stock does not have one either which makes me feel a little better. Snake makes me worry, sorry injuneer. I am not doubting you though. As for the timing marks. There are tiny white timing marks on the new fluidampr. What should I line up with my new balancer so the timing marks actually mean somthing?

p.s. I still have to:
clearance my timing cover for a dual roller
replace all the timing seals
strip and gut my waterpump/ install EWP, relay, powersource etc
take out wp gear and plug holes sufficiently...
replace the damn a/c condensor... that was falling apart in my hands!!

 

I know that.

At no time did I recommend installing the fluidampr without the key. Where did you get that idea? The stock unit is an interference fit, because is doesn't have a key. The fluidampr is probably looser and needs the key.

Is this a "real" Fluidampr (note spelling), or is this one of the cheap rip-offs they sell on eBay as a "Fluid Damper"?

You want the pointer to point to "0" on the damper, when #1 is at TDC.

 

This is a genuine fluidampr made specifically for the LT1. it is this model.

http://www.dirtdirectory.com/part-sh...84-716910.html

http://www.streetperformance.com/par...84-716910.html

Description: Fourth-generation (1993-98) Camaros, Firebirds and Impalas equipped with a 5.7-liter LT1 engine need the maximum efficiency of a true performance harmonic damper. Fluidampr®, the world's leading performance harmonic damper, provides maximum torsional vibration control at every rpm. Designed to install as a direct bolt-on replacement, this damper offers obvious improvements over stock. Only Fluidampr incorporates the shearing properties of highly viscous fluid in a hermetically sealed housing to control vibration at all engine speeds. Stock dampers are designed to work in only a narrow rpm range.Fluidampr, which is SFI accepted, is the obvious choice for high-performance engines. The damper includes a high-strength steel billet hub (with keyway) that conveniently replaces the stock cast-iron hub. Fluidampr's LT1 damper (part number 716910) also includes a serpentine belt pulley machined on the outside diameter. Timing marks are degreed in 2-degree increments from TDC to 40 degrees. A black, zinc-chromate finish provides improved resistance to rust and corrosion. Fluidampr is manufactured for most other popular engines, including small- and big-block Chevys, small-block Fords and Chrysler applications. For more information, call Fluidampr at 716-937-3603 or go to www.fluidampr.com.


Guessing I can go ahead and put er on.

 

they don't mention it but I guess the keyway is there to be universal. You use it if you need to but if you don't need it then it is ok to use the bolt through the middle and the compression of it alone.

 

I have the same one, put it on with the key, you need to install the spacer also, because you have a 95, you dont have the reluctor ring on the crank, the spacer takes the place of the ring.

 

Install a key for the dampner, install the spacer, install the Fluidampr, then (since the stock bolt/washer is too small) install a new crank bolt/washer - might I suggest this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...P%2D234%2D2501

it's what I used.