Newb here and a little intimidated by the job, im going to be using a haynes manual to do this, so any other info you can help me with will be appreciated. Also ifyou see any parts im missing or can help me find them cheaper some where else i would appreciate it.

Felpro Cylinder Headgasket Swap Kithttp://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/HS...oductId=746662

ARP Headboltshttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-3601/


ARP Thread Sealant

Ive heard i need a special tool for the fuel rails

Also do i use RTV silicone on all the replacement gaskets?

 

You would need a simple release tool to disconnect the plastic fuel lines from the rails. But that isn't necessary. Pull the rails up, loosen the brackets that hold the hard lines, release the circular clip on the side of the throttle linkage cover to release the fuel line bundle, and flip the entire rail assembly, lines still connected, up onto the windshield.

If you want to release the lines, Shoebox tells you how:

http://shbox.com/1/quick_connect.jpg

The release tools - you need 5/16" and 3/8" - are available i low cost sets at your local auto parts store. I've found the plastic tools to work fine, but others prefer metal.

 

I would look at having the heads checked for straightness. If also looking for performance, I would also at least consider using thinner head gaskets, the Felpro are thinner than stock and a step in the right direction but there are thinner yet available.

That kit is also a fair bit cheaper at places like Advance Auto.

Only place I would use RTV is the china wall and just a dab at the corners of the intake gaskets to meet the bead at the china wall.

 

Be careful....the Haynes manual shows the LT1 intake to be wet...it is not. You install the intake gaskets dry. The only place you use "The Right Stuff" is here....



Notice that the bead does go all the way up the tangs on the GM LT1 intake gaskets(at least 0.5" up onto the heads).

 

Would you happen to have pics of this China Wall, i cant find it in the haynes?

 

Ok thanks for that pic, and by the "right stuff" you mean rtv sealant right?

 

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

 

The "China wall(s)" are the only machined parts of the engine block that the intake manifild actually touches. So its the 1/2" wide (or so) machined area between the cylinder head mounting surfaces on the top of the block.

 

thank you guys, hopefully i can get this job done and not screw anything up even more