replaced entire ignition, still stumbles, totally clueless
Re: replaced entire ignition, still stumbles, totally clueless
Did you check your fuel pressure yet? Did you put a new knock sensor on there yet? There are a lot of good suggestions in this thread, which have you eliminated? The failing alternator or bad ground seems like a likely cause, especially if you have sometimes flickering lights etc. I don't know a lot, but a bad alternator might cause an unsteady voltage in the ignition coil, which in turn could cause missing even if you had all new opti, wires, plugs, ignition module, and new coil. Why don't you check the miss count. Hopefully your scanner has that capability, I know the OBD II does. My Dad showed me this feature with his scanner and explained the incredible benefits of it. If any cylinder misses, the crank sensor will pick it up and tell the PCM, which will store it so you can look at the number of misses in each cylinder as the car runs.
Re: replaced entire ignition, still stumbles, totally clueless
Maybe this will help.... Two days ago I installed my msd6a,,,, supposed to run better right?? Not!! It started just fine and smooth... then I got stuck in traffic and the longer I stayed in traffic the worse it got.. it began to miss more and more as the engine got hotter... Then to my surprise the check gages light came on.. and my oil pressure was zero!!! At that moment I realized my Voltage meter was fluctuating at the same speed as the misfiring... I was pissed but then it occurred to me that I pulled the power for the MSD6a from the switched power feed for the Ignition, cruise and injectors lines.... at the underhood fuse box... It occurred to to me (duh) that the switch that feeds this fuses maybe the one at the ignittion cylinder... I put my hands by the ingnition key and sure enough it was too warm to be a coincidence...
So I got me a 30 amp automotive relay from radio shack, used 10 gage wire from the + power red box by the battery on the passenger side and still used the switched power feed to turn on the Relay that powered up the MSD6a via a 10 amp fused 10gage wire... I screwd the relay on the side of the plastic cover over the radiator on the side.. and neatly hid the wires.
I drove to work today and back and the Gages are working fine again and the misfire disappeared...
Ok Point being have you checked the voltage at the power feeds?? is it fluctuating?? Mine was due to the MSD6a... too much load for whatever the switch that turns those parts was... I bet is my ingition switch at the steering wheel... Oh my oil pressure reading is back to normal again.
If you have changed all the ingnition parst .. I would recoment to carefully keep track of those power feeds... mine was affecting the injectors as well as my dash..
I hope I opened a new set of ideas for you to investigate///
Marvin
So I got me a 30 amp automotive relay from radio shack, used 10 gage wire from the + power red box by the battery on the passenger side and still used the switched power feed to turn on the Relay that powered up the MSD6a via a 10 amp fused 10gage wire... I screwd the relay on the side of the plastic cover over the radiator on the side.. and neatly hid the wires.
I drove to work today and back and the Gages are working fine again and the misfire disappeared...
Ok Point being have you checked the voltage at the power feeds?? is it fluctuating?? Mine was due to the MSD6a... too much load for whatever the switch that turns those parts was... I bet is my ingition switch at the steering wheel... Oh my oil pressure reading is back to normal again.
If you have changed all the ingnition parst .. I would recoment to carefully keep track of those power feeds... mine was affecting the injectors as well as my dash..
I hope I opened a new set of ideas for you to investigate///
Marvin
Re: replaced entire ignition, still stumbles, totally clueless
my scanner is the scanmaster in the dash and I have a hypertech scan cartridge, i can't get any misfire counts from them(I've had a misfire a few years ago when i had a burned plug wire, it set a flashing SES, i have NO CODES now). I can however monitor the voltage, it's a solid 14V when the car is on the alternator "seem" fine but yes there could be a problem or a grounding problem, another thing for me to check.
I haven't checked the fuel pressure as of yet because I've been away, and I need to buy the guages for that. The car runs much better at WOT then part throttle though, and I hear the fuel pump when I start the car, i still don't think it's fuel but i WILL check it. I want to get the knock fixed first.
I have ordered a new KS, it has not arrived yet.
My first plan of attack is to get rid of 100% of the knock retard, cuz it is excessive and there is no way my car detonates or should detonate. I have a stock internal motor running 93 octane at all times. Before the knock sensor gets here I'll just unhook the resistor and reset the computer, see if it drives better. WHen the KS gets here I'll hook that up(not in the block just out of the way so it reads 0 knock), and see how it works. I also have a spare knock module I'll use to see if maybe thats the problem. If I still get knock, i'll have to send the PCM in to get looked at/reprogrammed, it has to be the PCM at that point right??
And yes, there are alot of good suggestions in this thread, I have plenty of places to look now, thanks alot
Not totally clueless anymore, just that this will be time consuming. When I get this figured out, I'll post up what it was, it's probably something stupid that I spend over $400 to fix,
I haven't checked the fuel pressure as of yet because I've been away, and I need to buy the guages for that. The car runs much better at WOT then part throttle though, and I hear the fuel pump when I start the car, i still don't think it's fuel but i WILL check it. I want to get the knock fixed first.
I have ordered a new KS, it has not arrived yet.
My first plan of attack is to get rid of 100% of the knock retard, cuz it is excessive and there is no way my car detonates or should detonate. I have a stock internal motor running 93 octane at all times. Before the knock sensor gets here I'll just unhook the resistor and reset the computer, see if it drives better. WHen the KS gets here I'll hook that up(not in the block just out of the way so it reads 0 knock), and see how it works. I also have a spare knock module I'll use to see if maybe thats the problem. If I still get knock, i'll have to send the PCM in to get looked at/reprogrammed, it has to be the PCM at that point right??
And yes, there are alot of good suggestions in this thread, I have plenty of places to look now, thanks alot
Not totally clueless anymore, just that this will be time consuming. When I get this figured out, I'll post up what it was, it's probably something stupid that I spend over $400 to fix,
Last edited by Hawk; Jan 14, 2005 at 08:39 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



