the ram air is better hands down but if you take the components of a cold air and somehow work it into the intake elbo then you have bolt. It doesn't really cool the air newayz

 

ok I am doing this mod to my car , I have the fernco couplings , can anyone tell me where I can get the rest of the parts to do this , where is a good place to get the airbox assembly and whatever else I need. I have a 95 T/A but did they make a airbox for the 95's or do i need to go with a different year or are they all the same

 

You guys think the SS intake is restrictive, take a look under the hood of a Mach 1 Mustang.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...QQcmdZViewItem

 

I'm not sure for the airbox for a 95 actually. The only RA Firebirds in 93-95 were the Firehawks, and I'm not sure if they used the same airbox assembly as the 96-97 WS6/Firehawks, I believe they do though.

The other piece you might need is an extension harness for the MAF sensor, I don't believe the harness is long enough to reach the straight-on location instead of the 90* location.

 

My car is "track only".... it gets driven on the street about 5 or 6 times a year, and I don't go out if it looks like rain. Even for towing the car in the rain, I have to put a big foam plug in the scoop to prevent water from entering.

On the other hand, when the car was street driven, I cut about 1/2" off the bottom of the front baffle, and 1" off the top of the rear baffle, and never had a problem with water.

The WS6 airbox (and the SLP version, which is an exact duplicate, except for the "Ram Air" and "Pontiac" logos) will fit all years. With a 93, you'd have to make a filler piece for the missing MAF sensor, like I did.

As noted in posts above, the two thin threaded rods hold the airbox together, otherwise the front "bows" out and the edge comes off the tabs on the bottom of the box that hold it all together.

The Fernco part # is 1056-33. Includes the two stainless clamps, about $5 at Lowes or Home Depot (if SLP sold it, they'd want $50 ).

 

I sell Fernco Couplings... well did anyway. haha. I am gonna try a 3" Fernco and see if fits. You said use regular threaded rod? Then just drill through the ends of the box and throw a lock nut/washer on there?

You think i'll see a noticable gain up top?

What did you use to cut the baffles on the hood? Dremel?

 

I bet a dremel with one of those really fine cut off wheels would work good. They've always cut through ABS plastic and stuff like that really smooth and nice for me. Just watch as they are prone to explode into 3 trillion million pieces that suck to get hit with. If you crank the speed up real high, sometimes they more or less "melt" the plastic along the cut and it doesnt get all frayed and rough.

 

The 3"x3" Fernco works correctly. As noted in one of the posts above, you need to heat it in a pan of hot water so its flexible enough to fit over the throttle body.

Its just some thin threaded rod, with nuts and washers on both the inside and outside of the box, so the rods can not be overtightened. The nuts on the outside are "nylok" so they wont vibrate loose.

Dremel works fine. Use one of the larger diameter, "heavy duty" cutoff wheels. They don't shatter as often as the standard paper-thin ones. Wear safety glasses. The hood is a "composite" and it just turns to powder, it doesn't get soft and "melt". The airbox will, though.

 

I used a combo of a Dremel and Body-saw to cut the baffles outta mine.

 

You really need to know for sure which hood you have to make it functional. 93-95 Ram Air hoods were from the Firehawk only, and use a different airbox than 96-97 Firehawk/WS6 hoods.