Rag Joint, Question?
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 703
From: Austin, TX
It's not that difficult to replace. Two 11mm bolts will allow you to remove the steering shaft from the car. Then you have to get the rivits out. I put the shaft in my bench vice and used a 4" grinder with a grinding disc to grind down the rivit heads. Then a puch & hammer took the rivits right out.
I'd say the whole job took a little less than an hour to do with the 4" grinder. If you have to use a drill, I would think it will take quite a bit longer.
Again, after replacing the factory joint with the unbalenced engineering eliminator, I do not notice any increased vibrations at all. The steering wheel does not vibrate any more than it use to regardless if I'm going down the highway, going over speed bumbs, pot holes, gravel road, etc ....
As far as the safety bit, the chances of a front end collision pushing the steering column into the cockpit are much greater than it pushing the whole motor into the cockpit. Have you ever seen a car after a front end collision? Usually it's the dash/steering column/instrument panel that ends up in the passenger's lap; not the motor.
Thomas.
I'd say the whole job took a little less than an hour to do with the 4" grinder. If you have to use a drill, I would think it will take quite a bit longer.
Again, after replacing the factory joint with the unbalenced engineering eliminator, I do not notice any increased vibrations at all. The steering wheel does not vibrate any more than it use to regardless if I'm going down the highway, going over speed bumbs, pot holes, gravel road, etc ....
As far as the safety bit, the chances of a front end collision pushing the steering column into the cockpit are much greater than it pushing the whole motor into the cockpit. Have you ever seen a car after a front end collision? Usually it's the dash/steering column/instrument panel that ends up in the passenger's lap; not the motor.
Thomas.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 703
From: Austin, TX
Hmm, my car has 91k miles on the odometer and it wasn't at all difficult to remove the steering link/shaft. If you had difficulties removing yours, I'd have to say each car is unique, and the ease of removing it will vary.
The reason for the difference in our case is most likely Texas weather being nicer to the component than the east coast weather.
After removing the two 11mm bolts, I had the shaft out in just a few seconds ...... no B.S.!
Thomas.
The reason for the difference in our case is most likely Texas weather being nicer to the component than the east coast weather.
After removing the two 11mm bolts, I had the shaft out in just a few seconds ...... no B.S.!
Thomas.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 60
From: Dallas, TX
Originally posted by aram
I think a lot of cars have a direct connection (no rag joint) and are perfectly fine.
I think a lot of cars have a direct connection (no rag joint) and are perfectly fine.
...
.... Unless you like the steering wheel to sit 90* away from being centered. But other than that, it's a direct drop in.. Same length and everything.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 982
From: Berks County PA
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