I need to pull off my intake manifold.. I have checked out the shoebox website and still have a few questions.

1. What is the best way to go about getting the brake booster vacuum line off?.. It appears to be sealed onto my intake considering all the other vacuum lines come right of but that one won't come off when I tug on it.

2. Do I need to drain any coolant out of the block?.. how much will come out when I pull off the line on the throttle body?

3. In what sequence do I need to pull off the intake manifold bolts? Is it reverse the torque down pattern (AKA start with bolt 12 and then move to 1)? Also, is there a procedure for loosening the bolts (AKA break them all loose, then all 1/2 turn, etc. OR can you just pull out each bolt without breaking the other ones loose?)

4. Once I get the intake off, how do I go about getting all that RTV sealant off the intake manifold and heads without getting any of the crap into the heads and without gouging either mating surface?

 

Unless the car has had the vac.line tampered with it should have a clamp on it a pair of pliers to loosen the clamp and slide it back about an inch or so up the hose,twist the hose by hand while pulling it towards you should do it,if not use a small flat screw driver to pry it fron the nipple..
You should not need to drain any coolant,no coolant flows through the Lt1 intake manifold.The throttle body should only have a small amount of coolant in it.perfect time to by-pass it anyway.

Once the manifold is off take a towel and lay it in the valley on top of the spyder tray etc.I
take paper towels and stuff them into the intake ports,use a plastic scraper to get the loose dirt from the area. As for the walls on the block i use a razor blade to remove the gasket sealer go over all surface areas with a scothbrite pad and gumout...then lastly when i am done with the cleaning i will use a shopvac to vacuum out the ports and valley then remove the towel

As far as bolt removal no real sequence just get them outta there! Now when you put them back in, you should instal all the bolts by hand then TQ them down working from the middle out crisscross..

 

You can probably leave this removal until the intake is off to make it easier. Lube it with PB Blaster or similar first so as you make progress the oil can work it's way in. Then pull and twist once the clamp is off. Pry it from the intake end of the hose a bit to break it free. Sometimes trying to push the hose ON further is an easier way to initially break it free. Pliers to twist in a pinch, but then the hose is easily damaged.

Not really - some may leak at first, but it's at the top of the system. Pull the rad cap to depressurize the system, then put it back on. You can clamp the hoses shut when removing them if you want less mess, but I just took mine off and jammed plugs in them the first time. I never hooked them up again, though. Bypass=free mod. But if you winter drive, keep the heat.

I do them gradually in reverse pattern as you described so nothing gets warped.

Put clean rags in the valley to keep junk out of the motor, then use a gasket scraper. You can get RTV Remover in a spray can - it is good for final clean up but there is no substitute for elbow grease. Before you reassemble get all the surfaces super clean with solvent.

 

I am also doing this same thing, I ahve taken every thing out and clean and prepped, but I didnt take out the injectors and did a trial run installing it. seems the fuel lines will be in the way or make it more difficult, any suggestions for the install, I tried some studs for guides but the angle makes that not so good. wont line up. any help would be grerat and I am sure the guy who started this thread wil have the same question, Allen

 

Remove the fuel lines from the rail.You need a special tool for it.Most auto parts stores have it.As for lining it up,just get it straight over the top and lower it down carefully.

 

remove the fuel lines from the rail? not sure i follow you on that, do you mean by pulling the injectors up at the same time, wouldnt mind the kit came with new orings for that just was trying to avoid opening up to many things

 

No need to disconnect the fuel lines. Just pull the fuel rail with injectors intact, then set to the side.

 

You can do that too,but I would replace all the o-rings.The main reason I do it the other way.

 

Works fine this way...

 

ah studs on one side, that sounds good, I have been dreading this job only for one reason, this car sat fo a long time at one point so everything is very corroded as far as aluminum goes.so more cleanup than usual and I am halfway done and know I should take off those injectors. the hole for them is probably corroded everywhere but where theo-ring is, just dont want to create new problems, also sorry I kind of highjacked his thread burt it is all pertaining to the same thing.

 

If the car sat for a long time, you may need new injectors. My car sat for a little over six years and when we finally got it running I'm pretty sure only 2 cylinders were firing. I replaced all the injectors, and a bunch of other stuff. I'm still working on it actually. There is a long thread that might contain some useful info. You could find it by searching on my username.

 

the car sat for a while at one point, my wife has been driving it for two years now it runs great just leaked oil. Allen

 

Remember.... he has a 93 (assuming his screen name is accurate - a "signature" would sure help). The fuel rails and lines are different than all the other year LT1's.

 

Yeah, its a 93.. What's different about my rails and lines?

 

Your 93 rails are designed for batch-fire injection. 94+ are designed for full sequential injection. Your cross-over pipe is in the rear, the 94+ cross-over is the diagonal pipe in the front. Your fuel pressure regulator is in a different location. Your hard lines are routed differently.