Proper break in procedure for GM 847 Cam
Proper break in procedure for GM 847 Cam
Hey guys, like the title says...what is the proper break in procedure for a new cam. I'm swapping mine in on Thursday/Friday of this week. It's the GM 847 cam. I was told to hold her at about 2k rpms for like 20 minutes, then let it cool down for an hour or so, and repeat that same procedure...
Does that sound about right?
I am putting new springs/lifters/pushrods in as well. How many miles and/or heat cycles do I need to go through before romping on it?
Thanks in advance...
-Garrett
Does that sound about right?
I am putting new springs/lifters/pushrods in as well. How many miles and/or heat cycles do I need to go through before romping on it?
Thanks in advance...
-Garrett
HEat it up, run it at 2-3k rpms for 10-20 minutes to get a good oil flow and an initial break in. Let it cool. Do the same again. Let it cool. Change oil.
That's all there is to it. Try to keep it under 3500 rpms until you get at least heat 10 cycles on the springs, but as soon as you WOT to redline, it's all prety much broken in.
That's all there is to it. Try to keep it under 3500 rpms until you get at least heat 10 cycles on the springs, but as soon as you WOT to redline, it's all prety much broken in.
thanks shoebox. I was more concerned with the springs anyways... 
BTW, I hope you don't mind. I downloaded like your entire cam install/remove guide and the spring swap guide and put them into a zip file on my laptop for this weeks swap, along with all the accompanying pictures. I won't have anything but a ****ty dialup connection back home, and there is no connection in my garage so I wanted to have everything local on my laptop. I don't plan to distribute it or anything, and I'll delete the zip file once I'm done, but I just thought I'd let you know...
The guide is hands down the best I have found, so I wanted to have it there for a fall back reference in case I run into a problem.
Thanks again guys for the info... Feel free to hit up my other post about my spring installed height...
-Garrett

BTW, I hope you don't mind. I downloaded like your entire cam install/remove guide and the spring swap guide and put them into a zip file on my laptop for this weeks swap, along with all the accompanying pictures. I won't have anything but a ****ty dialup connection back home, and there is no connection in my garage so I wanted to have everything local on my laptop. I don't plan to distribute it or anything, and I'll delete the zip file once I'm done, but I just thought I'd let you know...
The guide is hands down the best I have found, so I wanted to have it there for a fall back reference in case I run into a problem.Thanks again guys for the info... Feel free to hit up my other post about my spring installed height...
-Garrett
Originally posted by shoebox
Roller cams do not actually need any "break-in", but keeping the revs up will make sure oil gets to everything that needs it. Nothing special for the 847 or other roller cam.
Roller cams do not actually need any "break-in", but keeping the revs up will make sure oil gets to everything that needs it. Nothing special for the 847 or other roller cam.
I think most these guys are thinking more along the lines of a flat tappet cam. But it doesn't hurt to heat cycle the motor a few times before playing with it. When doing heads and cam, I usually wait a few heat cycles or at least several hundred miles before playing with it instead of jumping on it immediately.
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